Raglan Sleeve Drafting
1) Trace front and back dress foundation to waistline only: then adjust armhole side seams and waist darts as shown as dotted
lines. Adjust each side of the dress sleeve foundation to correspond with the adjustment of the bodies armhole and side seams.
2) draft raglan armhole seam lines, slightly curved.
For side dart draw slash line: then slash and spread as described for the jumper dress”. Draw curved/lines on each side of sleeve caps shown by dotted lines.
3) Slash each side of sleeve and spread 1-1/2” at underarm. [Spread at underarm must always equal twice the amount the armhole was lowered]: then connect at each side to elbow line.
Trace raglan section F and G: then apply them to top of sleeve cap C and D. 1” apart.
4) Continue shoulder dark lines 1 -1/2” to a point as shown by dotted lines and sleeves. Lower the neck 2” at center front. Add
1/2” to center front for front closing overlap.
Draft front facing 4” wide as shown by dotted lines.
Add seams and make corresponding notches.
This style features: side and waist darts in bodice – slightly deepened armhole shoulder dart in sleeve. The 8 gored skirt has a sweep of over 3 yards and extra ease allowance around hip. For ‘bouffant’ wear, skirt has enough fullness around hip
and sweep at lower edge to be worn over a stiffened crinoline petticoat.
HOW TO DRAFT SKIRT
5)Trace hip section of the dress foundation: then curve hip and waist line up ¾ toward the side, and reduce waist line of inch at each side seams as shown by dotted lines 6) Divide hip section into 4 parts by cutting along dart lines.
Mark section A to D.
7) Continue straight lines down below hip sections to required length: then curve bottom lines parallel to hip
8) For addition sweep ,Add about 2-1/2 at bottom of each seam.
To nothing 3” below waistline.
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