Drafting Shoulder Pads

jacket coat shoulder pad-1How to draft the jacket pad 3) make shoulder pad patter in 4 sections. section 4 is used only when making a pad cover. the pad cover is used mainly for unlined jackets and coats. 1 and 2) draft top sections of pad as follows: a to b – 10” for size 16 [with 1/8” grade for each size] a to c – 5”, [this equals half of a to b]. c to d – 4-3/4” for size 16 [with 1/8” grade for each 2 sizes] a to d – connect. d to b – connect; then draw curbed lines as shown in diagram 2 draft outer section of pad as follows: e to f – 7-3/4” for size 16 [with 1/8” grade for each size] e to g – 3-7/8” [this equals half of e to f]. g to h – 2-7/8” h to i – 1-3/8”, this represents the thickest part of the pad. then draw curved lines as shown in diagram 2. finally draft bottom of pad as follows: j to k – 9” for size 16 [with 1/8” grade for each size]. j to l – 4-1/2”, [this equals half of j to k]. l to m – 5” for size 16 [with 1/8” grade for each 2 sizes]. j to m – connect. m to k – connect; then draw curved lines as shown in diagram 2. draw a v-shaped dart 4” long and 1/2″ wide at point l. to complete the pattern for the pad cover, allow seams [about 1/4″], and make corresponding notches. mark sections 1 to 4. For the coat pad make draft, same as for the jacket pad, but make the following changes: a to b – 12” a to c – 6” e to f – 8-1/2” e to g – 4-1/4” g to h – 3-3/8” j to k – 11” j to l – 5-1/2” make v-shaped dart 1” wide at point l. 4) how to adjust pattern for shoulder pad adjust front, back and sleeve according to the directions given for the dress shoulder pad

jacket coat shoulder pad-2

How to make the jacket pad 1.) cut out section 1 and 2 in crinoline; then stitch seam, taking up 1/4″ seam. 2) press seam open; then cut away 1/4″ seam allowance on outer edge. 3 and 4) cut 1 layer of cotton battling, the same shape as crinoline; then cut 4 more layers, each 3/4″ smaller on shoulder edges [for coat cut 6 more layers, each 1/2″ smaller than shoulder edges]. arrange in position as illustrated; then place crinoline on top and baste, thinning batting to nothing at shoulder edges. 5 and 6) after cutting out section 3 in muslin, trim away 1/4″ seam allowance on outer edge; then make dart by stitching together on dart lines 7.) place muslin against cotton side of shoulder pad and baste. 8.) this diagram shows finished pad. 9 and 10)  – pad cover seam section 1 to section 2; then sew section 4 to sections 1, 2 and 3 taking up 1/4″ seams. turn right side out. slip pad between edges of cover. stitch raw edges together; then overcast.

Comments are closed.