Fitted Bodices Styles 1
BODICE FRONT 3 WAIST DARTS
1) Trace the front foundation sloper; then square a line across at top of dart.
For the 3 darts, first trace part of the first dart, from A to A-1.
2) Mark position for the top of the 3 darts 1” apart between A, B and C.
Make the space at lower part of the first dart, between A-1 and A-2. 1/3 of the single dart in the front foundation.
3) Complete the second and third dart (same size as first), making the space 3/4″ wide between each dart at waistline.
BODICE BACK WITH NECK DART
Illustration shows waist dart omitted.
Diagrams 4, 5 and 6 show how to eliminate the waist dart, and how to form the neck dart.
4) Trace the back foundation sloper; then eliminate the waist dart by reducing 1” at waistline to nothing at armhole near side seam. Mark sections D and E.
5) Bring sections D and E together; then draw new center back line, by adding 1/4″ at neck and reducing 1/2″ at waistline, as shown by dotted line.
6) Make the neck dart 1/4″ wide and 3” long, 1-1/2” from center back.
BODICE WITH 3 SHOULDERS TUCKS
Illustration shows 3 tucks at shoulder and no darts at the waistline. The garment fits closely at the waistline and smoothly over the bust.
According to the design, the tucks may be made as inside or outside tucks. In appearance, both ways are decorative; in fitting value, both serve the same purpose.
1) Use the front with the 3 waist darts as a guide; then mark positions for the 3 tucks as follows: first draw the center tuck line, from the center of shoulder to the middle dart; then draw a line 1” each side of the center line, and mark sections A-B-C-D.
2) Cut out front; then slash along the 3 tuck lines. Place front on another sheet of paper and close up the waist darts to spread section A-B-C-D evenly for the 3 shoulder tucks. Pin to position.
3) Trace front foundation sloper and mark shoulder tucks in dotted lines, making the left tuck 5” long, center tuck 4-3/4”, and the right, 4-1/2”.
4 and 5) Cut out front in muslin and make the 3 shoulder tucks, as shown in the diagrams. Press tucks toward the center front.
As a rule, tuck lines are parallel to the center front, at lower part of tucks.
Use the front with the 3 waist darts as a guide: then mark positions for the 3 tucks as follows: first draw the center tuck line, from the center of shoulder to the middle of dart: then draw a line 1” each side of center line, and mark sections A-B-C-D.
2 STYLES FITTED BODICES-Pt. 2
1) Illustration show front and back view of French bodice.
2) Trace fitted front and back, including the darts; then square a line across at lower part of armhole as shown by dotted line.
3) Divide front into two parts as follows:
A to B – Equals front shoulder
A to C – Equals 1/2″ of shoulder
C to D – Draw line from C to D at top of dart, Divide back into two parts as follows:
E to F – Equals A to C on front shoulder.
F to G – Draw line from F to G at top of dart
H – Center between F-G.
I to J – Equals B to C on front shoulder.
J to H – Connect.
For the plain grain lines, mark arrows on side sections by squaring from the bust line.
4) Trace each section about 2” apart, eliminating the darts at the waistline and the dart at the back shoulder.
Draw a curved line inside section of front at point D as shown by dotted line.
5) For the first fitting, add seams on the edges, as shown in the diagram. Make corresponding notches as indicated.
Use two single notches in front, one above the bust curve and one below.
When making a final pattern for a garment, allow seams also at neck, armhole and waistline.
6) This diagram shows fitting partly joined. First join the front sections, matching notches; then join seams of the back sections. Join side seams and press all seams open, before joining shoulder seams.
BODICE WITH LOW NECKLINE
1) Illustrations show seams in front and back running from waistline to armhole instead of to shoulder seam.
2) Trace front and back foundation and shift position of darts as shown by dotted lines; then draw seam line from top of darts to armholes in front and back.
Mark sections A, B, C and D.
3) Lower the neckline in front and back to correspond with the neckline in the illustration. The lower neckline at center back is usually dropped about 3/4″ of the drop at shoulder. Lower the waistline at center front, 1-1/2”, as illustrated.
4) Trace sections A to D about 2” apart and round the corners as shown by dotted lines.
The grain lines, seam allowance and notches are to be made in the same manner as for the French fitted bodice.