HOW TO DRAFT THE PATTERN

1 and 2) Using the hip-length dress foundation, draft he empire waistline on front and back (from A to I), as described for style 1, paragraph #1 and 2.

For pointed empire waistline, raise line 2” above point B at center front, to nothing at dart as indicated.

For closer fit empire waistline (just below the bust), make the dart 1/2″ wider (1/4” on each side of dart); then extend dart up to level of the side dart as shown by dotted lines.

For additional darts at waistline, (for smoother fit), first add 1/2″ to side seams at waistline, to nothing at top and bottom; then draft the oval shaped darts, 7” long and 1/2″ wide, half way between dart and side seam.

Separate the front and back sections as shown in diagram 3 and 4.

3 and 4) To eliminate the side bust dart, see directions given for style 1, paragraph #3 and 4.

5, 6 and 7) Draft neckline in front and back; then draft dropped shoulder outline as shown by dotted lines.

Skirt length – Equals the prevailing style length, measuring from natural waistline to hem of skirt.

Width at lower edge of skirt front equals hipline plus 1”. The same applies to skirt back.

For peg-top effect in front of skirt, draw slash line through center of the waist dart to bottom; then slash from top to bottom and spread 1” as shown in diagram 7.

8) Draw the stitching lines of the peg-top dart to
waistline only. When stitched, it automatically forms a soft pleat below waistline (see sketch below).

9) Add a kick pleat at center back of skirt as shown by dotted lines. Pleat is stitched to 8” below hipline and across pleat (see sketch below).

For a closer fitting waistline, reduce 1/4″ at center back as indicated.

To complete the pattern, add seams and a skirt hem; then make corresponding notches.