Draft of Fitted Bodice Back
HOW TO DRAFT THE FITTED WAIST FOUNDATION IN PATTERN
The following diagrams show how to take the necessary measurements on the figure and how to draft the pattern.
The dotted lines in the drafting diagrams represent the construction lines; the solid heavy lines are the outlines of the pattern.
1. CENTER BACK LENGTH
A to B – From neck to waist. Draw this line for center back line.
2. ACROSS BACK
A to C – Equals 1/4″ of line A-B.
C to D – Equals half of width across back. Square a line across C to D; then extend line about 3”.
3. BACK SHOULDER HEIGHT
B to E – Equals length from waist to shoulder at neck. Tape is parallel in center back line.
Extend center back line up above A.
4. BACK BODY WIDTH
E to F – Equals half of back plus 1/4″ ease allowance. Square a line across E to F.
F to G – Square a line down from F to line C-D.
5. BACK SHOULDER SLOPE
B to H – Square a line across at B.
H to I – Draw a line from H to I. marking point I somewhere on line F-G for shoulder slope.
6. BACK SHOULDER SEAM
I to J – Equals shoulder, plus 1/4″ ease allowance. Locate J somewhere on line E-F. Then draw shoulder line.
J to A – Draw a curved line for back of neck.
B to K – Extend line down 1/4″.
K to L – Equals half of back, measuring to side seam at armhole. Square a line across from center back line at K.
Lto M – Square a line up from Lto line C-D.
A to N – Draw a line from A to N. Locating point N somewhere on line K-L for side waist depth.
9. SIDE SEAM LENGTH
N to O – Draw side seam line.
O to P – Square a line across from O to center back Q to D – Square a line up from Q to D.
Q to R – Draw a diagonal line.
I to O – Draw the armhole from I to D to R to O. 10. BACK WAISTLINE
N to H – Connect for waistline
S to L – Square a line up to T. For dart, reduce required amount each side of S, to nothing at T.