How to Draft Dress Sleeve
Junior’s Misses and Women’s
The illustration show below show how to take the necessary arm measurements for drafting the dress sleeve pattern For sleeve pattern measurements in junior and misses sizes, see chart below. No seams are allowed. The measurements include about 3” ease allowance around arm (at muscle), and the necessary ease around elbow and wrist.
1) A to B – Equals OVERARM LENGTH measurement. Draw straight line from A to B.
B to C – Equals UNDERARM LENGTH measurement. Mark point C on line A-B (A to C equals cap height or 1/3 of armhole circumference. For example: if armhole of bodice measures 19-1/2”. Cap height is 6-1/2”).
C to D – Equals half of arm circumference measurement. Square this line across at point C.
C to E – Same amount as C to D. Square across at C. 2
B to F – Equals half of B to C. Mark point F on line A-B for elbow line position.
F to G – Equals half of elbow measurement. Square this line across at point F.
F to H – Same amount as F to G. Square across at F.
B to I – Equals F to G, less 1”. Square across at point B. B to J – Same amount as B to I. Square across at point B.
I to K – Draw line from I to K through H and E, bringing point L to the level of point A. Connect K to L.
4. (Guide lines for sleeve cap)
A to M – Equals 1/4 of A to K.
D to N – Equals 1/4 of D to C. Connect M to N.
M to O – Equal 1/2 of M to N. Mark point O on line M-N. A to P – Equals 1/4 of A to L.
E to Q – Equals 1/6 of E to C. Connect P to Q.
P to R – Equals 1/2 of P to Q. Mark point R on line P-Q.
A to D – Draw curved cap line from A to D through Q for front as sleeve cap as indicated.
A to E – Draw curved line from A to E through R for back of sleeve cap. I to S – Equals wrist measure. Mark point S on line I-J.
S to T – 3/4″. Square a line down at point S.
I to U – Equals half of I to B.
U to T – Connect; then draw curved from T to I.
6. (v-shaped elbow dart).
The back edge of sleeve, from E to H to T, is 1-1/4” longer than front edge, from D to G to I. Make v-shaped dart 1-1/4” wide and 3-1/2” long at elbow as indicated, making upper line of dart, parallel to elbow line.