Drafting the Sheath Dress
Using the hip-length dress foundation as shown in the supplementary revised edition of the sub-teens and teens or the junior’s misses and women’s sizes, draft pattern as follows:
1 – Bolero
For semi-fitted bolero, trace front & back to
waistline only, and eliminate the waist darts; then reduce 1/2″ at sides of waistline, and draw curved outline in front as shown by dotted lines.
Instead of the 1/4″ ease on back shoulder seam, make a dart, 1/2” wide and 3” long, at center of shoulder seam; then add 1/4″ to shoulder at armhole. For bottom of back, make 1-1/4” wide facing.
2 – Sleeve
Using the dress sleeve foundation, draft short sleeve and cuff as shown by dotted lines
3 – Collar & front in on
A to B – Equals back of neck (from shoulder seam to center back). Square this line up from shoulder line.
4) – B to C – 1/2″; then connect from A to C.
5) – C to D – 2-3/4”. This equals 1-1/4” for stand of collar at center back, plus 1-1/2” for turn back; then square at point C.
6)- To complete the collar and front in one, draw a squared line from point C (about 2” long), then
ontinue the line slightly curved to edge of front as shown by dotted line.
7)- Draft facing as indicated, making facing 1/8” wider and 1/8” longer at center back as shown by dotted lines.
To complete the pattern, add seams on all sewing edges.
DRAFT OF SHEATH PATTERN (Style 2)
Using the hip-length dress foundation as described for style 1 above, draft pattern as follows:
1 and 2) -For additional darts at waistline in front and back, first reduce width of each waist dart 1/2″, shorten the darts 1” at hipline; then draft oval shaped darts 1/2″ wide and 7” long,
half way between the dart and side seam as shown by dotted lines.
For closer fit front (just below the bust), make the waist dart 1/2″ wider, about 5” above the waistline; then extend the dart up to the level of the side dart as shown by dotted lines.
A sleeveless dress is usually closer fitting around bust (about 2”). Therefore, reduce 1/2″ at upper part of each side seam; then raise armhole 3/4″ as shown by dotted lines.
Draft squared neckline as shown by dotted lines.
Dress length equals the prevailing style length. Width of front equals the front width at hipline, plus 1”. The same applies to the back.
Add a kick pleat at center back as shown by dotted lines. Pleat is stitched to 8” below hipline along center back and across the pleat (see sketch).
To complete the pattern, add seams and a dress hem.