Category Archives: pattern drafting

Sleeve with dart control

1. On the cut-out sleeve sloper with the cut-out dart, locate the position of the new dart at the wrist. Mark point A one-third or one-fourth of the way up from the back underarm seam. 2. Draw a slash line

Sewing Fitted and full pattern styles

Stitching the full amount of dart control into any garment results in a fitted garment with a standard amount of ease. In periods when a more relaxed look is fashionable, some of the divided dart control may appear as unstitched

Slopers Sleeve Skirt Bodice

Patterns generally come in halves that are ha1f a front, ha1f a back, etc. This makes cutting easier, faster, and more accurate (right and left sides are cut alike).  Below is printable skirt, sleeve and front bodice slopes. More Printable

Working with Darts

One dart can be good. Two darts can be better. More darts may be better yet. Only the normal restrictions of good design set the limit to the number of divisions of the dart control. Sometimes the amount of dart

Drafting Double Breasted Jacket

Sketches show the front and side view of the jacket Front and shoulder dart and waist dart fitting. Back has a seam at center back and is in 4 sections. Jacket has the regular notch collar Use the jacket foundation

The Grain Line (Straight of Goods)

The designer uses the “hang” of the fabric as part of the design. Because fabric is woven as it is, it hangs best with the lengthwise grain and most fabrics are used in this way (Fig. 35a . . .

Jacket and Coat Foundation Drafting

Jacket foundation 1) using the dress foundation as a guide, trace front and back 1/4″ apart at side seam; then broaden the shoulders 1/2″, lower the armhole 1/2″, and lower the neckline 1/3” 2) for single breasted jacket, add 3/4”

Drafting Collar and Vest

Collar and Vest in One 2 styles style 1 the collar has a 1” stand at center back. the vest is double breasted, and is part of the garment. using the fitted waist foundation as a guide,  draft collar and vest

Drafting Mannish Collar

2 styles collar with separate stand Illustration shows collar with 1” stand at center front and 1-3/8” stand at center back. 1) collar band trace front,; then draft collar as follows: a to b – draw straight line. b to