Top Stitched Seam

Top Stitched Seam-1

Topstitching refers to rows of stitches that are stitched to the surface of the fabric on top of the seam. Topstitching makes a seam stronger, highlights the design lines, and helps the seam lie flat, as well as adding a decorative element to the garment.

Pressing Equipment

Pressing Equipment-1Having the correct pressing tools helps to achieve quality workmanship. Pressing is important, as you are about to find out. It may take time to acquire your own equipment, but you will soon find you are unable the  live without these tools, as they

Make Do and Mend

Make Do and Mend-4Patches are a great way t0 get into recycling and reusing fabrics in fresh and inspiring ways. You can make patches to use up your old scraps or remnants of fabric rather than just throwing them away; you can also use them to liven up or repair worn clothing,

Basic Embroidery Stitch

Embroidery, buttons, trimming and beading are all wonderful ways to add a final beautiful touch to your sewing project you might be lucky enough to have inherited a well-established button box and trimming collection, but if you are starting from scratch,

How to Take Bra Measurements

How to Take Bra Measurements-1A huge number of women are walking around wearing the wrong size bra and have been doing so for years, an astonishing thought when you think about it, how can you really be that out of tune with our own bodies?

Getting measured is easy enough but many

A Midriff Yoke

A Midriff Yoke-2Variations of this type of yoke are understandably popular. They are a great way to emphasize a slim midriff and small waist while retaining the shaping of the upper bodice.

1. On a bulging-block bodice, draw the yoke style line* and notch it (Fig. 73a).

2. Cut away the yoke. Open the remaining dart control on the bodice (Fig. 73b). This may be used as one dart, multiple darts, or gathers.

* Whenever drawing a curved style line from the center-front or center-back posi¬tion, first square a short line (tAl inch) at the center line. This assures a smooth. continuous curve. Without doing-so you may discover a point or a dip at center when the material is opened out (Fig. 73c).

When the yoke is cut away, note that part of the dart control :appears in the joining seam and part on the yoke side seam.

The midriff section of this unfitted dress is bodice yoke plus skirt Joke. The basis for this design is the hip-length sloper (Fig. 74).

1. Trace the hip-length sloper (see page 119). Cut out the darts.

Close the waistline bodice-skirt dart and fasten it with Scotch tape. (It’s easier to do this if you first slash the waistline. It can be closed at a later stage.) By doing this, you’ve created a partial bulging block-all that is necessary to produce the pattern for this design.

A Midriff Yoke-1

2. Draw the midriff yoke style lines on bodice and skirt. Notch the style lines (Fig. 7 4a) .

3. Cut away the midriff yoke. Shift the underarm dart to what’s left of the bodice  waistline dart, thus enlarging it (Fig. 7 4b).

4. Slash open the vertical midriff dart but close the waistline

slash. The midriff pattern should now lie flat (Fig. 74b). In this design this much midriff dart control is left as unstitched fullness. 5. Trace the bodice and midriff patterns. Close the skirt dart. Ex¬tend the remainder of the skirt pattern to full length (Fig. 7 4c). Add flare by the method described on page 144.

6. Complete the pattern.


{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns

Adele P. Margolis

Dart Control Concealed in a Yoke Seam

Dart Control Concealed in a Yoke Seam-1The Skirt Yoke 

1. Trace the skirt-front sloper. Cut out the tracing and the dart. Z. Draw the style line of the yoke and notch it. Extend the waist¬line dart to the yoke style line (Fig. 72a).

3.. Cut the yoke away from the lower skirt. Close the extended dart (Fig. 72b). Note that the dart control appears in the seam that joins the yoke with the lower skirt.

4. Correct the waistline with a smooth curved line. Correct the

seam line of the hip yoke (Fig. 72b).

5. Complete the pattern.


{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns

Adele P. Margolis

Measurements-Junior’s Misses and Women’s

The illustrations above show bust measurements taken around Body over bra (Fig. 1) Dress form (Fig. 11) Dress or blouse (Fig 3) All 3 figures represent size 16, yet it is important to note that for chest expansion allowance, the dress form (Figure 2) measures 2” more around bust than on figure 1, and that the dress or blouse (Figure 3) measures about 4” more than figure 1 for ease and free arm movement. Therefore, the bust measure on size 16 is – The draft to the right provides 4” ease allowance Sketches above show where the measurement is taken on the figure. 36” on figure 1 38” on figure 2 40” on figure 3 1-Back shoulder height 2-Across back 3- Shoulder seam 4- Center back length 5- Bust line 6- Side seam length 7- Front shoulder height 8- Center front length 9- Across chest around bust and 1” ease allowance waistline.juniors misses womens measurements-1 juniors misses womens measurements-2

Classic Vest

Designed by Lorna Miser.

Classic Vest-1Directions are for size Small; changes for sizes Medium, Large, X Large and XX Large are in parentheses.

Finished Bust: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)”.

Finished Length: 23 (23¾, 24½, 25¼, 26)”.

Using a fashion forward color turns this basic v-neck knit vest into the perfect wardrobe piece.

This is a style that everyone can be comfortable wearing—including all ages and figure types.


“Super Tweed™ ”: 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) skeins 7708 Pinkberry A and 1 skein 7404 Smokey B.

Knitting Needles: 5mm [US 8].

Circular Knitting Needles: 4mm [US 6] 16” long.

Stitch holders (3), stitch markers (2), spare knitting needle, yarn needle.

GAUGE: 16 sts = 4”; 22 rows = 4” in Stockinette st.

CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size needles to obtain the gauge given.

Special  Abbreviation

S2kp2 = Slip 2 sts together at once knit wise, k1, pass 2

slipped sts over knit st-.2 sts decreased.

K1, p1 Rib (worked over an odd number of sts).

Row 1 (Right Side): K1, * p1, k1; repeat from * to end of row.

Row 2: P1, * k1, p1; repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for K1, p1 rib.

Classic Vest-2VEST Back

With A, cast on 71 (79, 87, 95, 103) sts.

Begin K1, p1 rib and repeat Stripe Sequence as follows:

* 2 rows with A, 2 rows with B; repeat from * once more, then work 2 rows with A. Cut B.

Next Row (Right Side): Begin St st, inc 1 st at end of row–72 (80, 88, 96, 104) sts.

Work even until Back measures 16 (16½, 17, 17½, 18)” from beginning, end by working a wrong side row.



Shape Armholes

Bind off 3 (4, 5, 7 , 8 ) sts at beginning of next 2 rows–66 (72, 78, 82, 88) sts. Dec 1 st at beginning and end of every right side row 3 ( 4, 5, 6, 8 ) times–60 (64, 68, 70, 72 ) sts. Work even until armhole measures 7 (7¼, 7½, 7¾, 8)”. Slip first 18 (20, 22, 23, 24) sts for shoulder onto st holder, slip center 24 sts for back neck to second holder, slip remaining sts to third holder for shoulder.


Cast on and work same as for Back to armhole shaping, end by working a wrong side row.

Divide for NeckK36 (40, 44, 48, 52) sts; join a second ball of yarn at center front for neck edge, knit to end of row.

Shape Armholes and V Neck

Working both sides at once with separate balls of yarn, shape armholes same as for Back AND AT THE SAME TiME at beginning of next right side row begin neck shaping as follows: Work to within 3 sts of first neck edge, k2tog, k1, with second ball of yarn k1, ssk, knit to end.

Continue to dec 1 st at each neck edge alternating every 2nd and 4th row 11 times more–18 (20, 22, 23, 24) sts each side. Work even until armhole measures same as Back to shoulder edge.


Join shoulders with 3-Needle Bind off as follows:

Slip sts from first shoulder st holder onto spare knitting needle. With wrong sides facing, and points of both needles pointing to the right, * knit the first st from the front needle together with the first st from the back needle. Knit the next st from each needle in the same manner, then bind off 1 st. Repeat from * until all sts have been bound off. Fasten off last st. Repeat for second shoulder.

Sew side seams.

Neck Edging

With right side facing, circular knitting needles and A, pick up and k81 (83, 85, 87, 89) sts evenly around neck edge including sts from holder and picking up 1 st at center front. Place a marker on center st. Place marker for beginning of round and join, being careful not to twist sts.

Round 1: K1, p1 rib to within 1 st of marked center st; s2kp2, rib to end.

Repeat Round 1 (working center front dec every round) and Stripe Sequence as follows: 1 round with A, 2 rounds with B, 1 round with A. Bind off with A working center front dec.


Armhole Edgings

With right side facing, circular knitting needles and A pick up and k62 (66, 70, 76, 80) sts evenly around armhole edge. Place marker for beginning of round and join, being careful not to twist sts. Begin K1, p1 rib and repeat Stripe Sequence as follows: 2 rounds in A, 2 rounds in B, 1 round in A. Bind off in A.


Pattern from


The Versatile Yoke

The Versatile Yoke-1The yoke is a wonderful design device. Its seaming may conceal the dart control (Fig. 70a). Where there is no control it may simply divide a bodice or skirt into interesting areas (Fig. 70b). Often, it provides a smooth, trim area in contrast to fullness in an adjoining area (Fig.’ 70c). It is a common device for separating a highly decorative area from a very plain one (Fig. 70d).

When a yoke appears in the lower bodice, it produces a smooth, fitted midriff (Fig. 70e). When it appears in the upper part of the skirt it is a hip yoke (Fig. 70f). In its very narrowest form, a hip yoke becomes the contour belt.

There are partial yokes (Fig. 70g), yokes in one with a panel (Fig. 70h), and yokes in one with a sleeve (Fig. 70i). This has not begun to exhaust the endless possibilities and versatility of the yoke.




The Versatile Yoke-3Remember that an equal division of an area is not nearly as interesting as an unequal division.

Use lines appropriate for the fabric. A solid-color fabric may have straight or curved lines. Use straight lines for stripes, checks, or plaids.

Relate the shape of the yoke to the shape of other style lines in the garment.

FOR DESIGN purposes Only Yokes That Do Not involve Dart Control

On the appropriate sloper, draw the style line, place notch marks and establish the grain, cut apart.

When there is no control in the yoke seam, the entire amount of dart control may be used decoratively below the yoke.

AS GATHERS (Fig. 71a)

1. Draw the yoke style line on the bodice-front sloper. Notch the style line. Cut the yoke from the lower bodice.     .

2. On the lower bodice draw slash lines from the dart point to the yoke and from the dart point to the waistline.

3. Slash all slash lines. Divide the control for gathers between the waistline and the yoke style line.

4. Complete the pattern.
The Versatile Yoke-2AS MULTIPLE DARTS (Fig. 71b)

1.Draw the yoke style line on the bodice-front sloper. mark notches.

2.Draw the position of the darts. Connect them with the dart point.

3.Cut the yoke away.

4.Slash the dart lines to the dart point. Shift the control to the

new darts, dividing it equally between them- Draw new dart legs.

5.Complete the pattern.





{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns

Adele P. Margolis