The Learning Process for Pattern Drafting
With Garment Construction
Learn pattern drafting by following this step-by-step guide that was student-tested. Most of those
students mastered pattern making. They learned how to construct garments made from the patterns they
drafted and stayed motivated by having new garments for their wardrobes. They learned not to depend on
instructional guide sheets included in purchased patterns.
Note: Basic Patterns and Master Patterns are indicated with Bold Italic letters.
1. Draft the Basic Skirt Pattern, make in muslin, fit and correct pattern as needed.
2. Add from w inch to 2 inches Internal Flare to the Basic Skirt by pivoting at Hip Level Line. Make
the pivoted skirt in plain, firm, woven fabric and fit. Correct both the pivoted pattern and the Basic
Skirt Pattern if needed. Measure for the Basic Bodice at the pivoted skirt fitting.
3. Draft the Basic Bodice Pattern, make in muslin, fit and correct pattern if needed. If no major
changes are needed, measure for the Basic Sleeves.
4. Learn to move darts using sheets of copy paper for the exercises. Do exercises on Basic Bodice copies.
5. Draft Basic Sleeve Patterns, set muslin sleeves in Basic Bodice, fit, correct both Basic Patterns.
6. Coordinate the Basic Patterns—Skirt, Bodice and Sleeves.
7. Design and complete a pattern for a Basic Dress, make in plain, firm, woven fabric; fit and correct
patterns if needed. Transfer any changes back to the Basic Patterns.
8. Create the Basic Sheath Pattern using Basic Skirt and Bodice Patterns. Make muslin, fit, correct
9. Use the Basic Sheath Pattern to design a simple shirt pattern with a cuffed long sleeve. Make in
plain, firm, woven fabric, fit and correct patterns if needed.
10. Create Dartless Basic Sheath Pattern using the Basic Sheath Pattern. Make muslin, fit, correct
11. Use the Basic Dartless Sheath Pattern to design a shirt pattern. Make it up in a checked or plaid
fabric and match the fabric design. Fit the shirt and correct pattern if needed.
12. Create the Basic Pants Pattern using the skirt pattern with 12 inches Internal Flare pivoted at Hip
Level Line. Cut muslin for one leg and sew together, try on the one muslin leg, holding it up with a
grosgrain ribbon for the waistband. Fit and correct pattern if needed.
13. Make pair of pants in plain, firm, woven fabric. Make corrections as needed to the Basic Pants Pattern.
14. Design and develop a pattern for a vest. Use the pattern to make a vest, fit, correct pattern if needed.
15. Design and develop pattern for a suit jacket. Use the pattern to make a jacket, fit, correct pattern.
16. Design and develop pattern for a kimono sleeve garment. Make the garment, fit, correct pattern.
17. Draft the Basic Big Top Pattern.Make in muslin, fit and correct pattern if needed.
18. Design and develop a pattern for a jacket using the Basic Big Top Pattern. Use pattern to make a
19. Design and develop a pattern for a garment made from a stable knit fabric. Use the pattern to make a
garment. Develop the Master Pattern for Stable Knit Fabrics.
20. Design and develop a pattern for a garment made from a stretchy knit fabric. Use pattern to make a
garment. Develop the Master Pattern for Stretchy Knit Fabrics.
Information above was taken from