*50 feet of 1/4-inch- to 3/8-inch-diameter cotton clothesline. This is available at big box chains and hardware stores—just make sure it seems soft enoughfor a needle to pierce.
* Several strips of 1/2-inch- to 3/4-inch-wide fabric, cut selvage to selvage. You'll find that the thinner strips are actually easiest to work with. If slightly fraying fabric bothers you, you can cut your strips on the bias. This is too fussy for me but will give your finished bowl a cleaner look.
* Sewing machine loaded with a NEW quilting/sharp needle
* Thread to match or contrast with your fabric. (You will use a lot of thread to make a big bowl, so wind two bobbins before you get started to avoid later frustration.)
* One binder clip (they look like this)
* Cording foot. (This is totally optional—if you have one, use it; if you don't, your standard foot will be fine.)

Follow Instructions on craftstylish.com

How to Sew a Continental or Cornice Rod Casing with a Heading

1) Measure window after rod has been installed to determine total length. Add 151/2′ (39.3 cm): 5/12′ (14 cm) for the casing and seam allowance, 8″ (20.5 cm) for the double-fold hem, and 2″ (5 cm) for I” (2.5 cm) heading. For a deeper heading, add twice the desired heading depth.

2) Turn under ½”’ (1.3 cm) on upper edge of curtain and press. Fold over again 6″ (15 cm) for casing and heading. Stitch 1″ (2.5 cm) from upper folded edge to form heading. Stitch close to folded edge to form casing.

3) Insert rod through casing and gather curtain evenly onto rod. Hang on installed brackets. For a wide heading, use two Continental or cornice rods, installed one above the other. Add 10″ (25.5 cm) for second casing.

How to Make a Shirred Pole Cover

1) Cut fabric two and one-half times the length of pole area to be covered; cut width equal to circumference of pole plus 1-1/2″ (3.8 cm). For pole cover with a heading, add amount equal to twice the heading depth.

2) Stitch ½” (1.3 cm) hems on short ends. Fold strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and pin long edges together. Stitch 1/2″ (1.3 cm) seam. Press seam open. Turn cover right side out.

3) Press cover so that seam is at back of pole. To form heading, stitch again at appropriate distance from upper folded edge. If desired, add narrow binding to upper edge, opposite. Gather pole cover onto rod between two curtain panels

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Singer Sewing for the Home
Copyright 1984-1988

How to Sew a Casing with a Heading

1) Determine casing depth by loosely pinning a curtain fabric strip around the rod. Remove rod and measure the distance from the top of the strip to the pin. Add 1/2″ (1.3 cm) to be turned under.

2) Press under 1/2″ (1.3 cm) along upper cut edge of curtain panel. Fold over again and press to form a hem equal to amount measured in step 1.

3) Stitch close to folded hem edge to form casing, backstitching at both ends. If desired, stitch again close to the upper edge to create a sharp crease appropriate for flat or oval curtain rods.

How to Sew a Casing with a Heading

1) Determine the depth of the casing as directed in step 1, above.
Determine the depth of heading, opposite. Press under 1/2″ (1.3 cm) along upper cut edge of the curtain panel. Fold and press again to form hem equal to casing plus heading depth.

2) Stitch close to folded edge, backstitching at both ends. Mark heading depth with a pin  at each end of panel. Stitch again at marked depth. To aid straight stitching, apply a strip of masking tape to the bed of the machine at heading depth, or use seam guide.

3) Insert rod through casing and gather curtain evenly onto rod. Adjust heading by pulling up the folded edge so the seam is exactly on the lower edge of the rod. A wide heading may be made to look puffy and more rounded by pulling the fabric out on each side.

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Singer Sewing for the Home
Copyright 1984-1988

A casing or rod pocket is the hem along the upper edge of the curtain or valance. The curtain rod is inserted through the casing so that the fullness of the curtain falls into soft gathers.

Before cutting the curtains, decide on the casing style. A simple casing places the curtain rod at the uppermost edge of the curtain.

For simple casings, add to the cut length an amount equal to the diameter of the rod plus ½’’’ (1.3 cm) to turn under and ¼’’ to I” (6 mm to 2.5 cm) ease. The amount of ease depends on the size of the rod and thickness of the fabric.

A heading is a gathered edge above the casing. It finishes the curtain more decoratively than a simple casing. Curtains with headings do not require cornices or valances.

For casings with headings, use the formula for a simple casing, adding to it an amount twice the depth of the heading. Headings may be from 1″ to 5″ (2.5 to 12.5 cm) deep. The depth of the heading must be determined before the curtains are cut. The heading depth should be appropriate for the length of the curtain: in general, the longer the curtain, the deeper the heading.

Wooden, brass or plastic poles may be covered with a shirred pole cover. The exposed pole between the curtain panels is covered with a casing made from a shirred tube of matching fabric (above). The casing may be plain or have a heading the same height as the curtain heading. Wide poles and casings are more than decorative. They often are used to conceal a shade heading, the plain heading on shirred curtains, or the traverse rod of sheer or lightweight curtains.

Wide casings are used on the flat Continental rod or cornice rod. These rods are 4-1/2” (11.5 cm) wide. A cornice rod is actually two regular curtain rods attached with a spacer between them. Finish lower and side hems of curtains before sewing casings and headings.

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Singer Sewing for the Home
Copyright 1984-1988

The Basics
Home decorator sewing requires the same basic equipment as dressmaker sewing, with the addition of tools for measuring windows and furniture. Using the proper equipment makes the work easier and the results more satisfying.
1) Needle threader eases threading of hand and machine needles.
2) Pins with plastic or glass heads are easier to see and handle.
3) Thimble protects your middle finger when you sew by hand.
4) Needles for general hand sewing are Shil1PS. Buy a package of assorted sizes for various sewing tasks.
5) T-pins are long, sturdy, broad-headed pins which are used to anchor fabrics to solid surfaces.
6) Quilting pins are extra long and useful for working with heavy or thick materials.
7) All-purpose thread is used for hand and machine sewing on most fabrics. Choose all-cotton, cotton Wrapped polyester or all-polyester thread, depending on the fiber content of the fabric.

Measuring Tools
The most important consideration in home decorator sewing is accurate measuring. The following measuring aids help you make correct calculations for buying and cutting fabric.
1) Carpenter’s square is an L-shaped ruler, used to determine the perfect right angles and square corners that are essential to the fit of curtains, shades, tablecloths and pillows.
2) Wood folding ruler is used for measuring large areas. Because of its stability, this ruler is more accurate than a tape measure.
3) Yardstick is used for measuring long, flat lengths of fabric, and for marking and squaring grain lines. The surface of the yardstick should be smooth so it does not snag fabric.
4) Spring-return metal tape measures windows and other large areas. It is also handy for measuring around curves.
5) Seam gauge makes quick, short measurements such as those for hems. The 6″ (15 em) metal or plastic ruler has a sliding marker for accuracy in measuring.

Marking & Cutting Tools
After making careful calculations and taking accurate measurements mark and cut the fabric in preparation for sewing. Have on hand an assortment of marking tools for various fabric colors and textures. Good quality cutting tools are also a smart investment.
1) Cutting board is marked with horizol1t.al and vertical lines, and is useful for laying out and cutting lengths of fabric up to 2 yards (1.85 meters). It is made of heavy cardboard so fabric can he pinned in place. Two boards may be necessary for large items such as floor-length curtains.
2) ‘Tailor’s chalk is specially designed to mark directly on fabric and rub off easily.
3) Trimmers have straight handles and are used for trimming and straightening edges. A lightweight, slim blade aids accuracy,
4) Seam ripper is used to remove stitches. Use it with care to avoid ripping fabric.
5) Bent handled shears allow fabric to remain flat during cutting. Shears should be lightweight, easy to handle and 8″ or 9″ (20.5 or 23 cm) long.
6) Liquid marking pencils make sharp, defined lines on firm fabrics. One type of pencil makes a mark that can be removed with dear water; the other makes a mark that disappears in 18 hours. Test marking pencils on a fabric scrap before using. Ironing permanently sets the markings; if markings are on the right side of the fabric; do not press until they are removed.

Notions
Notions serve three purposes in home decorator sewing. Some, such as the rings used on Roman shades, are essential to the construction of an item; others, such as fusible web and fabric glue, make sewing easier. Notions such as braids, trims, pipings and ribbons are simply decorative.
1) Decorative trims such as bias tape (la), piping (lb) and ribbon (1c) are available in a wide range of colors and styles to complement the items you sew. Select trims with the same care requirements as the decorator fabric.
2) Cords, tapes and rings (2a) have specific uses on certain projects. These notions are described in the directions for projects which require them.
3) Fusible web is used for hemming or for bonding two layers of fabric together; It is available in narrow strips for hems, or in 18″ (46 cm) widths for fusing larger areas.
4) Fabric adhesives such as glue stick (4a) and craft or white glue’(4b) may be used for temporary basting, or for permanently applying batting or trims to items which will not receive much handling.
5) Liquid fray preventer dries invisibly and prevents the raw edge of fabric from fraying. Use it as a temporary agent to prevent raveling while working with fabric, or as permanent finish oil exposed seams and edges.
6) Stain-resistant spray can be used on many home decorating items to prevent spills from soaking into fabric. To apply, follow instructions on the container.

Posted specially for viewers of pattern-making who write and asked for this information, hope this help, good luck

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Singer Sewing for the Home
Copyright 1984-1988