To determine the spacing between tucks, divide the finished length of shade by the number of tucks (as
determined above). Rings will be placed on alternate tucks, beginning with the bottom tuck.

Cutting Directions
Cut decorator fabric and lining as for Roman shade, adding 1/2″ (1.3 cm) for each tuck to the
length of both fabrics. Also cut facing strip from lining fabric,S” (12.5 cm) wide; length equal to finished shade width plus 2″ (5 cm)..

YOU WILL NEED
Decorator fabric for shade.
Lining fabric for lining and facing strip.
Notions: mounting board, plastic rings, screws eyes or pulleys, shade cord, weight rod, white glue, awning cleat and staple gun, as for Roman shade.

How to Make a Stitched-tuck Shade

1) Follow directions for Roman shade, steps 1 to 7, except space horizontal rows as figured above. Draw horizontal lines across wrong side of shade at ring locations. Baste lining and outer fabric together on each line.

2) Remove water-soluble pen markings. Fold and press sharp crease exactly on each basting line, right sides together. Bring opposite folds together, accordion pleat style,and press crease in each fold.
Machine-baste as in step 1.

3) Stitch tucks 114″‘(6 mm) from creased edges on right side and wrong side of shade. Complete the shade following the directions for a Roman shade, steps 9a to 16. Do not use ring tape.

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

This also adds apparent height to the window. A system of evenly-spaced cords and rings on the back of the shade causes the shade to pleat when pulled. A weight bar near the bottom of the shade adds stability and aids smooth tracking. The choice of fabric affects the look of the finished shade. Sturdy, firm fabrics work best for the pleats of these shades.

Lightweight, softer fabrics may be used, but the shades will be less crisp-looking. Roman shades are usually lined. This gives added body to the shade, prevents fabric fading and gives windows a uniform appearance from the outside. You may need to seam fabric or lining to create enough width for the shades. Be sure to consider these seams when measuring for construction. Additional fabric may be needed to match a print,plaid or other design. To make measuring and construction easier and more accurate, use a folding cardboard cutting board on your work surface.

Cutting Directions Determine width and length of finished shade. Cut decorator fabric for shade 3" (7.5 cm) wider and 3" (7.5 cm) longer than finished shade. Cut lining with width equal to finished width of shade; length equal to finished length plus 3" (7.5 cm). Cut facing strip from lining fabric,S" (12.5 cm) wide; length equal to finished width of shade plus 2" (5 cm).

YOU WILL NEED Decorator fabric for shade. Lining fabric for lining and facing strip. , Mounting board, 1" x 2" (2.5 x 5 cm), cut to size for inside or outside mounting. Paint ends of board or cover with matching fabric. Screw eyes or pulleys, large enough to hold all the pull cords. Number should equal the number of vertical rows. Shade cord for each vertical row of rings.

Each cord must be long enough to go up the shade, across the top and partway down the side for pulling. Plastic rings, 1/2' (1.3 cm), equal to number of vertical rows multiplied by number of horizontal rows. Or use ring tape with 6" (15 cm) spaces the length of the shade times the number of vertical rows plus 6" (15 cm) for each row. Weight rod, one 3/8" (1cm) brass rod or 1/2 (1.3 cm) rustproof flat bar, cut W' (1.3 cm) shorter than finished width of shade. White glue or liquid fray preventer. Awning cleat. Staple gun or tacks. Drapery pull (optional). SEE>  SEWING ROMAN SHAPED

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

Before measuring windows, select the style of curtain, drapery or shade you will make. The style of window treatment determines what installation hardware is necessary. Next, decide exactly where the window treatment will be placed; install the hardware and measure this area for the finished size of the curtain, shade or drapery.

Curtain rods may be attached to the window frame, within or at the sides of the frame, on the wall above the frame, or at the ceiling. Mounting boards are necessary for hanging Roman shades and other shades based on the Roman shade construction. These 1″x 2″ (2.5 x 5 cm) boards are cut to the width of the shade, stapled or tacked to the shade’s upper edge, then installed at the window. An inside mounted shade fits firmly inside the top of the window frame. An inside mounted shade is installed on the wall above the frame. A hybrid mounted shade is a combination mount. The mounting board is placed inside the window, but the shade extends over part of the window frame.

Roller shades are installed inside or on the window frame, or on the wall above.
Follow these guidelines for accurate measuring:

1) Use a folding ruler or metal tape for measuring;
cloth tapes may stretch or sag.

2) Measure and record the measurements for all windows separately even if they appear to be the same size. Size differences, even if slight, should be taken into account when constructing window treatments.

3) When measuring for a shade that fits inside the window, measure the window width at the top, center and bottom to determine if it is true and square.

4) When measuring for curtains on a window without an apron, measure to at least 4″ (10 cm) below the sill.

Window Measurements for Curtains, Shades and Draperies

Estimating Yardage
Because fabric widths vary, yardage cannot be figured until the fabric has been selected. After
you have taken the necessary measurements and determined the finished size of the curtain, shade or drapery, you must add to the length and width for seams, hems, headings and fullness. This is the cut length. Use the cut length to estimate the amount of fabric you will need. For curtains and draperies, use the amounts as listed below and transfer the correct amount to the chart (right). For shade yardage, see individual instructions for each type of shade.

Determining Length
To the finished length, add the amount needed for lower hems, casings, headings and pattern repeat. Lower hems. Add double the desired hem to the finished length. For medium weight fabrics, use a 4″ (10 cm) double-fold hem on floor-length curtains or draperies; add 8″ (20.5 cm) to the length. Or on short curtains or valances, use a I” to 3″ (2.5 to 7.5 cm) double-fold hem; add 2″ to 6″ (5 to 15 cm) to the length. For sheer and lightweight fabrics, a deeper double-fold hem of 5″ to 6″ (12.5 to 15 cm) may be used; add 10″ to 12″ (25.5 to 30.5 cm) to the length.

Casings and headings: For simple casings with no heading, add an amount equal to the diameter of
the rod plus V2″ (1.3 cm) to turn under and 1/4″ to I” (6 mm to 2.5 cm) ease. The amount of ease depends on the size of the rod and thickness of the fabric. Lightweight fabrics require less ease; casings for large rods require more. For casings with headings, use the formula for a simple casing, adding to it an amount twice the depth of the heading.

Pattern repeat: Fabrics with patterns (motifs) need to be matched. Measure the distance between motifs and add that amount to the length of each panel.

Determining Width
To the finished width, add the amount needed for seams, side hems and fullness. Seams. For multi-width panels, add I” (2.5 cm) for each seam. Panels that is not wider than the fabric
do not require an extra amount for seams. Side hems. Add 4″ (10 cm) per panel for a I”
(2.5 cm) double-fold hem on each side of the panel.

Fullness: Fabric weight determines fullness. For medium to heavyweight fabrics, add two to two and one-half times the finished width of the curtain. For sheer and lightweight fabrics, add two and one-half to three times the finished width.