1. On the cut-out bodice-front sloper with the cut-out dart, locate the position of the new shoulder dart. When there is a dart on the back shoulder, it is a fine point in design to match the location of the two. Place the front sloper against the back shoulder Mark the position of the front shoulder dart. Label the point A (Fig. 43a).
2. Draw the new: dart line from shoulder to dart point (Fig. 43a).
3. Slash the dart line.
4. Close PART of the original dart; the remaining control is automatically shifted to the new dart (Fig. 43b).
5. Complete the pattern by adding all the necessary signs, symbols, and notations.

How much dart control is shifted to a new position depends on what is appropriate for the material, what is kind to the grain, and what provides a subtle fit.
You can see how divided dart control would be a good way to handle a check or a plaid (Fig. 44) .

{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns
Adele P. Margolis

Approx Size: 2-7/8″ w x 3-3/8 “h each Supplies: Worsted weight yarn (refer to color key), one 10-5/8 ” x 13-5/8″ sheet of plastic canvas, #16 tapestry needle, nylon line, and #26 tapestry needle (for working with nylon line)

Stitches Used: Backstitch, Overcast Stitch, and Tent Stitch Instructions: Follow chart and use required stitches to work ornament. For hanger, thread 8″ of nylon line through canvas at ; knot nylon line 3″ above top of ornament. Trim ends.

The Basics
Home decorator sewing requires the same basic equipment as dressmaker sewing, with the addition of tools for measuring windows and furniture. Using the proper equipment makes the work easier and the results more satisfying.
1) Needle threader eases threading of hand and machine needles.
2) Pins with plastic or glass heads are easier to see and handle.
3) Thimble protects your middle finger when you sew by hand.
4) Needles for general hand sewing are Shil1PS. Buy a package of assorted sizes for various sewing tasks.
5) T-pins are long, sturdy, broad-headed pins which are used to anchor fabrics to solid surfaces.
6) Quilting pins are extra long and useful for working with heavy or thick materials.
7) All-purpose thread is used for hand and machine sewing on most fabrics. Choose all-cotton, cotton Wrapped polyester or all-polyester thread, depending on the fiber content of the fabric.

Measuring Tools
The most important consideration in home decorator sewing is accurate measuring. The following measuring aids help you make correct calculations for buying and cutting fabric.
1) Carpenter’s square is an L-shaped ruler, used to determine the perfect right angles and square corners that are essential to the fit of curtains, shades, tablecloths and pillows.
2) Wood folding ruler is used for measuring large areas. Because of its stability, this ruler is more accurate than a tape measure.
3) Yardstick is used for measuring long, flat lengths of fabric, and for marking and squaring grain lines. The surface of the yardstick should be smooth so it does not snag fabric.
4) Spring-return metal tape measures windows and other large areas. It is also handy for measuring around curves.
5) Seam gauge makes quick, short measurements such as those for hems. The 6″ (15 em) metal or plastic ruler has a sliding marker for accuracy in measuring.

Marking & Cutting Tools
After making careful calculations and taking accurate measurements mark and cut the fabric in preparation for sewing. Have on hand an assortment of marking tools for various fabric colors and textures. Good quality cutting tools are also a smart investment.
1) Cutting board is marked with horizol1t.al and vertical lines, and is useful for laying out and cutting lengths of fabric up to 2 yards (1.85 meters). It is made of heavy cardboard so fabric can he pinned in place. Two boards may be necessary for large items such as floor-length curtains.
2) ‘Tailor’s chalk is specially designed to mark directly on fabric and rub off easily.
3) Trimmers have straight handles and are used for trimming and straightening edges. A lightweight, slim blade aids accuracy,
4) Seam ripper is used to remove stitches. Use it with care to avoid ripping fabric.
5) Bent handled shears allow fabric to remain flat during cutting. Shears should be lightweight, easy to handle and 8″ or 9″ (20.5 or 23 cm) long.
6) Liquid marking pencils make sharp, defined lines on firm fabrics. One type of pencil makes a mark that can be removed with dear water; the other makes a mark that disappears in 18 hours. Test marking pencils on a fabric scrap before using. Ironing permanently sets the markings; if markings are on the right side of the fabric; do not press until they are removed.

Notions
Notions serve three purposes in home decorator sewing. Some, such as the rings used on Roman shades, are essential to the construction of an item; others, such as fusible web and fabric glue, make sewing easier. Notions such as braids, trims, pipings and ribbons are simply decorative.
1) Decorative trims such as bias tape (la), piping (lb) and ribbon (1c) are available in a wide range of colors and styles to complement the items you sew. Select trims with the same care requirements as the decorator fabric.
2) Cords, tapes and rings (2a) have specific uses on certain projects. These notions are described in the directions for projects which require them.
3) Fusible web is used for hemming or for bonding two layers of fabric together; It is available in narrow strips for hems, or in 18″ (46 cm) widths for fusing larger areas.
4) Fabric adhesives such as glue stick (4a) and craft or white glue’(4b) may be used for temporary basting, or for permanently applying batting or trims to items which will not receive much handling.
5) Liquid fray preventer dries invisibly and prevents the raw edge of fabric from fraying. Use it as a temporary agent to prevent raveling while working with fabric, or as permanent finish oil exposed seams and edges.
6) Stain-resistant spray can be used on many home decorating items to prevent spills from soaking into fabric. To apply, follow instructions on the container.

Posted specially for viewers of pattern-making who write and asked for this information, hope this help, good luck

{Credit}
Singer Sewing for the Home
Copyright 1984-1988

SIZE: 41/2″ high
MATERIALS
Knit Cro Sheen crochet cotton – 72 yds (or bedspread weight crochet cotton,
Size 7 steel crochet hook
Styrofoam ball 1-1/2″ diameter
Styrofoam ball 3″ diameter
Styrofoam cone 9″ high
GAUGE: RNDS 1-3 = 21/2″
INSTRUCTIONS
Ch 8, sl st to form a ring.
RND 1: Ch3 (first dc). Work 23 dc in ring. SI st in top of ch 3 to join = 24 dc.
RND 2: Ch 8 (first tr trc, ch 2). *1 tr trc (YO 4 times) in next dc, ch 2. Rep from * 23 times. SI st in 6th ch of ch 8 to join = 24 tr trc.
RND 3: Ch 3. Work 1 dc in each st around. SI st in top of ch 3 to join.
RND 4: Ch 1, sc in same st as sl st. *Ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc. Rep from * 23 times. Ch 2, 1 dc in first sc to join = 24 ch 5 Ips.
RND 5: Sc in joining Ip. *Ch 5, sc in next Ip. Rep from * 23 times. Ch 2, 1 dc in first sc to join.
RND 6: Ch 4 (first trc). Holding back last Ip of each st on hk, work 2 trc in same Ip as ch 4. YO, and pull through all 3 Ips on hk at the same time (first cluster made). *Ch 5.
Holding back last Ip of each st on hk, work 3 trc in next ch 5 Ip. YO and pull through all 4 Ips on hk at the same time. Rep from * 23 times. Ch 2, 1 dc in top of first
cluster to join.
RND 7: Sc in joining Ip. Ch 2. *Sc in next Ip, ch 2. Rep from * around. SI st in first sc to join.
RND 8, 9, 10: Rep RND 3, 4, 5 once.
RND 11: Ch 3 (first dc). 1 dc in same Ip as ch 3. Ch 3, sl st in last dc made (first picot made). Ch 4, sl st in same dc (ch 4 picot made). Ch 3, sl st in same dc. 1 dc in same Ip
as beg ch 3. Ch 1. *2 dc in next ch 51p. Ch 3, sl.st in last dc. Ch 4, sl st in same dc. Ch 3, sl st in same dc. 1 dc in same ch 51p. Ch 1. Rep from * around. SI st in top of beg
ch 3 to join. Break off.
RND 12: Join in any ch 4 picot. Sc in same picot, ch 3. *Sc in next ch 4 picot, ch 3. Rep from * 23 times. SI st in first sc to join = 24 ch 2 sps.
RND 13: Ch 5 (first dc, ch 2). Sc in first ch 3 sp, ch 2. *1 dc in next sc. Ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2. Rep from * around. SI st in 3rd ch of ch 5 to join.
RND 14: Ch 8 (first trc, ch 4). *1 trc in next dc, ch 4. Rep from * around. SI st in 4th ch of ch 5 to join.
RND 15: Ch 6 (first dc, ch 3). Sc in first ch 4 sp, ch 3. *1 dc in next trc. Ch 3, sc in next ch 4 sp, ch 3. Rep from * around. SI st in 3rd ch of ch 6 to join.
RND 16: Ch 10 (first dtr, ch 5). *1 dtr in next dc, ch 5. Rep from * around. SI st in 5th ch of ch 10 to join.
EDGING
RND 17: Ch 7 (first dc, ch 4).1 dc in 4th ch from hk, 1 dc in same st as sl st. *Sk 2 sts. 1 dc in next st. Ch 4,1 dc in 4th ch from hk. 1 dc in same st as first dc. Rep from * around. SI st in 3rd ch of beg ch 7 to join. Finish off.
HANGER LOOP
ROW 1: Join in beg ch 8 ring. Ch 10, sl st in opposite side of ch 8 ring.
ROW 2: Ch 1, turn. Work 20 sc in ch 10 Ip. Finish off.
CLAPPER
GAUGE: RNDS 1-4 = Hi” Ch 6, sl st to form a ring.
RND 1: Ch 2 (first hdc). Work 11 hdc in ring (= 12 hdc).
Do not join but work in continuous RNDS.
RND 2: Work 2 hdc in each hdc around = 24 hdc ..
RND 3: *1 hdc in next hdc, ch 1. Rep from * around.
RND 4 . 8: *1 hdc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1. Rep from * around. Slip 1V2″ styrofoam ball inside.
RND 9: Work 1 hdc in each ch 1 sp around.
RND 10, 11: Dec, working 1 hdc in next 2 hdc at the same time until only 6 sts remain. Sk 2 hdc, sl st in next hdc to close.
ROW 12: Ch 31/2″ length. Finish off.
BLOCKING
Measure up 3″ from wide end of cone. Trim off top 6″. Bottom piece should measure about 3″ high x 3″ across top and 3314″ across bottom. Cut 3″ ball in half and glue
one half on top of remaining 3″ high cone .
Cover with plastic wrap. Draw a 5″ diameter circle on a piece of paper and cover with plastic on pinning board. Set cone in center of circle. Dip bell in stiffening solution
and shape over mold pinning last round flat on pinning board outside the circle. Shape hanger loop and hold open with large pen or candle. Dip clapper in stiffening
solution taking care not to wet 31/2″ chain. Stitch or glue clapper to bell when pieces are dry.

Please report all typing arrow in my comment box. Thanks

GINGERBREAD GOODIE HOUSE
Size: 8″ w x 11″ h x 8″ d
Supplies: Worsted weight yarn (refer to color key), seven 105/8″ x 135/8″ sheets
of plastic canvas, two 4″ dia plastic canvas circles, #16 tapestry needle, ten
4mm green beads, 108 – 4mm red beads, 24 – black seed beads, four 1/2″
yellow star buttons, sewing needle, and sewing thread Stitches Used: Backstitch, Cross Stitch, French Knot, Gobelin Stitch, Overcast Stitch, Pattern Stitch, and Tent Stitch Instructions: (Note: Use a double strand of yarn for Pattern Stitch and for horizontal and vertical Gobelin Stitches.)

For Roof Sides, cut two pieces of plastic canvas 48 x 35 threads each. Use white to cover pieces with Pattern Stitch. Match edges and use white to join Roof Sides along one long edge. Follow charts to work Front/Back Eaves and Side Eaves. Match. ‘s and ‘s and use white to join Front/Back Eaves to Side Eaves between ‘s and x •s. Refer to I photo and use white to join Eaves to Roof Sides. Use white Overcast Stitches to cover unworked edges of Eaves. Sew green beads to Eaves at ‘s. Sew red beads to Eaves at ‘s (Note: For a sturdier house, use a double thickness of plastic canvas for Front, Back, and Sides.) Cut two pieces of plastic canvas for each Front, Back, and Side. Match edges and hold pieces together while stitching through both thicknesses.

For Arch Sides, cut four pieces of plastic canvas 4 x 19 threads each. For each Archway, refer to chart and use sewing needle and thread to join two Arch Sides to Arch Top. Follow charts and use required stitches to work Archways, Wreaths, and remaining pieces. For each Archway, use white and match ‘s to join Archway to Front/Back. For each Wreath, thread an 8″ length of red yarn through Wreath at *’S. Tie yarn in a bow
and trim ends. Refer to photo and use green to tack Wreath to Front/Back. Refer to photo to sew seed beads to snowmen for eyes and buttons. For each scarf, knot two 12″ lengths of red and one 12″ length of green 1;4″ from one end. Braid yarn for 4″ and knot remaining ends; trim remaining ends to 1;4 “. Thread scarf through Front/Back at ‘s and knot. Sew red beads to Sides, Left Tree, and Right Tree at ‘s For each tree, refer to photo and match ‘s to place Left Tree and Right Tree on Side with right sides up. Use green and work through all thicknesses to join Tree pieces to Side along unworked threads. Refer to photo to sew star buttons to tops of trees. For each Shutter, use white and match ‘s to join Shutter to Side along unworked threads. For each Window Box, use brown and match ‘s to tack Window Box to Side. Refer.to photo and use white to join Sides to Front and Back. For Bottom, cut a piece of plastic canvas 44 x 44 threads. (Note: Bottom is not worked.) Use white to join Front, Back, and Sides to Bottom along unworked threads.

Here’s the perfect gift for Grandparents Day (September 9) – a heart-tugging wall hanging
that names all the grandchildren. For extra sentimental appeal, let the children stitch
their own personalized hearts.

Large Heart Size: 13V2″w x lOV2″h
Small Heart Size: 3Ys”w x 3″h
Supplies: Worsted weight yarn (refer to color key), two lOV2″ X 13V2″ sheets of 7 mesh plastic canvas, #16 tapestry needle, tracing paper, removable tape, 1;4 “w rose ribbon (for granddaughters), 1;4 “w blue ribbon (for grandsons), clear-drying craft glue, and saw tooth hanger

Stitches Used: Backstitch, Cross Stitch, Overcast Stitch, and Tent Stitch Instructions: Follow chart and use required stitches to work Large Heart. Follow charts and use required stitches to work one Small Rose Heart for each granddaughter and one Small Blue Heart for each grandson. Complete backgrounds with ecru Tent Stitches as shown on charts. Use ecru Overcast Stitches to cover unworked edges. Use the alphabet and grid below to chart each grandchild’s name on a separate

piece of tracing paper. Center name along placement line on one Small Heart chart. Secure with removable tape. Use rose to stitch each granddaughter’s name on a Small Rose Heart. Use blue to stitch each grandson’s name on a Small Blue Heart. To attach each Small Heart to Large Heart, cut ribbon to desired length and glue ends of ribbon
to wrong side of Small Heart and Large Heart. For hanger, glue saw tooth hanger
to wrong side of Large Heart.

Here’s a new idea for plastic canvas – fashion accessories for your hair! This stylish set offers four pretty pieces’
to top off your wardrobe, what a clever idea!
Headband Size: 1-1/4″w
Large Barrette Size: 4-1/2″ w x 2-3/8″ h
Small Barrette Size: 3-1/4 “w x 1-3/8 ” h
Comb Size: 3-7/8″ w x 1-1/2″ h
Supplies: Worsted weight yarn (refer to color key) one 10-1/2″ x 13-1/2″ sheet of 7 mesh plastic canvas, #16 tapestry
needle, 43 – 4mm silver beads, 3/4 “w plastic headband, 3-1/2 “w hair comb, 3″ I and 4″ I barrette fasteners, clear-drying craft glue, felt, sewing needle, and thread
Stitches Used: Backstitch, Cross Stitch, Gobelin Stitch, and Overcast Stitch
Instructions: Follow charts and use required stitches to work piece. Use sewing needle and thread to attach one silver bead to piece at each x
For Headband only: For Bottom, cut a piece of plastic canvas 85 x 8 threads. (Note: Bottom is not worked.) Use black to
join Top to Bottom along short edges. Place plastic headband between Top and Bottom. Use black to join Top to Bottom along unworked edges, easing pieces to form headband shape .
For Barrettes only: Cut felt slightly smaller than barrette and glue to wrong side of stitched piece. Glue barrette fastener to center of felt.
For Comb only: For Back cut a piece of plastic canvas 24 x 10 threads. Work Back with red Tent Stitches. With wrong sides together, use red to join Front to Back along unworked edges of Front. Insert comb into opening and glue opening closed .

Designed by Celia Lange.

Carrying a lunch to school can be lots of fun with this colorful lunch sack! Stitched with bright designs, our unique tote features convenient handles that are just right for little ones to hold
Size: 5 -1/2 “w x 10 -1/4 “h x 3 -1/8″ d
Supplies: Worsted weight yarn (refer to color key), two l0-1/2″ X 13-1/2″ sheets of
7 mesh plastic canvas, and #16 tapestry needle
Stitches Used: Backstitch, Gobelin Stitch, Overcast Stitch, and Tent Stitch

Instructions: For sturdier handle, place Handle Support behind handle on Front/Back. Match edges and hold pieces together while stitching through both thicknesses. Follow charts and use required stitches to work Sides. For Bottom, cut a piece of plastic canvas
36 x 21 threads. Work Bottom with blue Tent Stitches. Use color to match stitching area to join Front and Back to Sides. Use blue to join Bottom to Front, Back, and Sides. Fold down sections of Sides and use blue to join sections where indicated by heavy black lines.

Designed by Dick Martin.

What is a balloon Dress? (In a nut shell)
The balloon dress or balloon skirt is two garment in one, first you have a straight skirt and next you have a gather skirt, your straight skirt will be about one or two inches shorter than your gather skirt, you gather the bottom and top of the material for the gather skirt (waist and hem) then you sew your straight skirt on the inside of the gather skirt like a facing starting at the bottom and turn out pulling the bottom up giving it a balloon look.
How to make a balloon?
I make this Balloon dress for my daughter and lay out the instruction, first I make my Pattern from news paper, follow this link to make you basic  bodice pattern Foundation and this link for Fitted bodice drafting this link for skirt pattern.

The image below will show you how  to shade your pattern to get the top of this style.

Pattern Pieces
Raise your front and back bodice armhole about 1 inch and mark across. Mark strap as shown
to desire width. Blue shaded area show your Pattern pieces
Add 1-1/2 inch to the center back for button or zipper and ¾ inch seams all around (or place on your material and cut with seams and button allowance).
Center front is cut on fold

Sewing your balloon skirt:
Cut your gather shirt as show using desired measurement, for size 10 I use length 15 inch by 45 inches wide

Sew your straight skirt as normal leaving off the waist band and the hem,
(Straight skirt will act as a lining)
Join the back of your gather skirt leaving zip opening, gather top and bottom, (run two row gather thread for full gather look)

Join skirt sides be sure to get the hip measurement to the bottom or a measurement that will allow free walking space.
Join band for the skirt bottom and fit around the bottom of the gather, then fit the bottom of the straight skirt around on top the band turning the right side up, sew all three part around and turn out. (Follow picture instructions)

Sewing dress top: first join the shoulder straps at the shoulder and sew both sides, turn out and hem, attach straps to the to of your bodice front and back place the facing on top and sew, turn over and join the sides, sew darts.

This style has a built in waist band, sew waist band unto the skirt and join the top to the bottom.

Lots of styles from the 60th, 70th. and 80th are coming back  in this 21th Century, the balloon dress is one of those style

1. Measure directly up from the dart point the amount you wish to lengthen the dart. Mark the new dart point.
2. Draw new dart legs starting at the ends of the original darts and ending at the raised dart point
The broken lines in diagram shown represent the original darts; the solid lines, the new darts.

HOW MUCH?
Here is a guide for shortening designer’s darts to convert them into dressmaker’s darts. Keep in mind that “standards” may be meaningless when applied to individual requirements. Shorten the darts the amount that looks best and feels most comfortable.
Bodice: The front-waistline dart is shortened 1/2 inch from bustpoint height, * the back-waistline dart is shortened 1 inch from the shoulder-blade height.
The underarm dart is shortened 2 inches or more from the bust point. (This dart is generally at bust-point height. Should it be on a slight angle it must end at bust-point height no matter where it originates on the side seam.) Heavy-bosomed figures may bring the underarm dart closer to the bust point for additional shaping.
A front-shoulder dart is shortened 2 inches or more from the bust point. It too, may be brought closer to the bust point in heavy bosomed figures. The back-shoulder dart is usually stitched to a finished length of 3 inches.
The French underarm dart is an exception. It may be stitched to the bust point except in larger figures when it is shortened 1/2 inch or more.
Sleeve: The elbow dart is usually stitched to a finished length of 2 inches. * The terms “height” and “point” refer to the high point of the curve.
Only in very small or youthful figures and only in very form revealing
garments are darts stitched to the dart point. That would be asking too much of most figures.
Generally, in dressmaking and tailoring, the darts are shortened somewhat to give a sculptured, soft effect and a little more ease.
These shortened darts are called dressmaker’s darts.Designer’s darts are used in making a pattern. Dressmaker’s darts
are used in making a garment.
All darts in commercial patterns are shortened darts. Should you wish to relocate such a dart you would first have to extend it to the designer’s dart point.
All darts in the patterns you are creating are unshortened darts.For your final pattern, these will have to be shortened to dressmaker’s
darts.

HOW TO SHORTEN A DART
1. Measure down from the dart point the amount you wish to shorten the dart. Mark the new dart point in the center of the space.
2. Draw new dart legs starting at the ends of the original darts and ending at the lowered dart point. It is not the amount
of control you wish to change, merely the length of the dart

Skirt: The skirt-front dart is shortened 2 inches from the high point of the front hipbone.
The skirt-back dart is shortened 1 inch from the high point of the buttocks.
Frequently skirt darts fit better when un shortened (or shortened very little) so that the dart releases the greatest amount of material
where the figure is fullest.

Shapely Dart

Straight dart legs must always be equal in length, AB equals BC (Fig. a). If they are not, make them so. Wherever possible, balance the dart on grain to avoid puckering when stitched., When the dart legs are curved, one (AB) may be a little longer than the other (BC) (Fig. b). Ease AB into BC. Because of the angle, it is comparatively easy to “ease” a curve.
Straight dart legs ending just short of the high point (ADC-dressmaker’s dart)” provide ease in the bulge area (Fig. c). Dart legs stitched to the dart point remove the ease (ABC) (Fig. c).
When the dart legs are “bowed” for closer fit (as in an evening or cocktail dress), the ease is removed (Fig.d).