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	<title>Pattern-Making &#187; edging</title>
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		<title>Wrap Around Scarf</title>
		<link>http://www.pattern-making.com/wrap-scarf/</link>
		<comments>http://www.pattern-making.com/wrap-scarf/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Oct 2009 17:32:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crochet patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crocheting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[edging]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[scarf]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[yarn]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.pattern-making.com/?p=3211</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Getting started FINISHED SIZE 20&#8243; wide and 80&#8243; long. YARN Lorna&#8217;s Laces Helen&#8217;s Lace (50% wool, 50% silk; 1,250 yd [1,143 m]/4 oz [113 g); #43NS sage, 2 skeins. HOOK Size D/3 (3.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. NOTIONS About 805 glass seed beads, size 8°, color: gunmetal, 35 [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter">
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/wrap-around-scarf3.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-3227 aligncenter" title="wrap-around-scarf3" src="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/wrap-around-scarf3-272x300.jpg" alt="" width="272" height="300" /></a></p>
</div>
<p><strong>Getting started</strong></p>
<p><strong>FINISHED SIZE</strong> 20&#8243; wide and 80&#8243; long. YARN Lorna&#8217;s Laces Helen&#8217;s Lace (50% wool, 50% silk; 1,250 yd [1,143 m]/4 oz [113 g); #43NS sage, 2 skeins.</p>
<p><strong>HOOK Size</strong> D/3 (3.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. NOTIONS About 805 glass seed beads, size<br />
8°, color: gunmetal, 35 g; yarn needle; short<br />
length of thread.</p>
<p><strong>GAUGE</strong> 1 patt rep = 6-1/4" across, 17 rows = 4".</p>
<p><strong>Notes</strong><br />
Wrap is 3 pact rep wide. Beg each of 3 sections separately to form points, then join<br />
them tog on Row 14 and cont as 1 piece. Start each row of "beg points" with an inc as foil: Ch 6, dc in dtr. End each row of<br />
beg points with an inc as foil: After last dc<br />
in chart, ch 1, dtr in same st as last dc. Start each row of "end points" as foil: Ch 5, foil chart. End each row of end points as foil: Work chart to 2nd to last dc, work 2nd to last dc to final step leaving 2 lps on hook, sk ch-1 sp, dtr in next dc and finish off both sts tog.<br />
Edging beads are added during finishing-do not add them while crocheting<br />
from chart.<br />
Dtr at end of row counts as (ch 1, dc) or (dc, ch 1).<br />
For beading, a short length of thread is used as a beading needle (see Stitch<br />
Guide).</p>
<p><strong>Stitch Guide: </strong>Beads are added where noted on chart or where indicated in finishing instructions.<br />
Add bead: Pull up a Ip, bring piece of thread through Ip and hold ends tog, remove hook, moisten thread ends, push ends through bead as you would a needle and push bead down over Ipso it is snug next to last st, remove thread from Ip, insert hook back in Ip trapping bead, pulI yarn snug to hook, ch 1.</p>
<p><strong>Points (make 3) </strong></p>
<p><strong>Row 1:</strong> Ch 6 (counts as [ch 1, dc, ch 1] here and throughout), dc in 6th ch from hook, turn-2 dc.<br />
<strong>Row 2</strong>: Ch 6, dc in first dc, ch 1, sk next ch, dc in 5th ch of tch, ch 1, dtr (counts as dc, ch 1; see Notes, Glossary) in same ch, turn-4 dc.<br />
<strong>Row 3:</strong> Ch 6, dc in dtr, ch 1, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in 5th ch of tch, ch 1, dtr in same ch, turn-8 dc.<br />
<strong>Row 4</strong>: Ch 6, dc in dtr, ch 1, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, do in next 4 dc, 2 do in next ch-1 sp, do in next dc, ch 1, do in 5th ch of tch, ch 1, dtr in same ch, turn-14 dc. Row 5: Ch 6, do in dtr, ch 1, do in next dc, 2 do in next ch-1 sp, do in next 4 dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in next 4 dc, 2 do in next ch-1 sp, do in next dc, ch 1, do in 5th ch of tch, ch 1, dtr in same ch, turn-18 dc. Cont inc in est pact at beg and end of each row (see Notes) and at the same time foil<br />
<strong>Rows 6-13 </strong>of Diamonds chart for lace design beg with Row 6, adding beads where indicated (see Stitch Guide). Fasten off (do not fasten off third point). Third point only:</p>
<p><strong>Row 14:</strong> (W-5) Cont to add beads as indicated on chart and join points as foil: Ch 3 (counts as do here and throughout), 2 do in ch-1 sp, do in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc, *ch 1, sk next 2 dc, do in next 4 dc, 2 do in next ch-1 sp, do in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc] 3 times; rep from * once adding bead at center of diamond, **2 do in next ch-1 sp, do in next 4 dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc, do in next do**, [ch 1, do in next dc] 3 times; rep from ** to ** once, ch 1, do in next dc, 2 do in next ch-1 sp, (to join points, work through sts of both points at the same time) do in 5th ch of tch and in dtr at edge of next point (counts as last do of previous panel and first dc of next panel), cont with chart across 2nd point then join 3rd point as above. Note: Each dc strip bet panels is 7 dc wide<br />
<strong>Row 15</strong>: (Worked across all 3 joined points) Ch 3, do in next 3 dc, [ch 1, do in next dc] 2 times, *ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in next 4 dc, 2 do in next ch-1 sp, do in next do*, [ch 1, do in next dc] 3 times, rep from * to * once, ch 1, do in next dc, **2 do in next ch-1 sp, do in next 4 dc, ch 1, sk next 2 do**, dc in next dc, [ch 1, do in next dc] 3 times, rep from ** to ** once, [dc in next dc, ch 1] 2 times, do in next 4 dc, turn. Rows 14-23 of chart form pact rep for f i rst half of wrap. Work until 13% beaded diamonds are complete, ending with Row 22. <strong>Rows 23-32</strong> form pact rep for 2nd half of wrap. Work until 26 full beaded diamonds are complete, ending with Row 32. Beg shaping end points: Row 33: Work first end point to first dc of 7-dc strip. In first dc of strip, dec by working to last step of dc (2 lps on hook), sk next 2 dc, dtr in 4th dc until there are 4 Ips on hook, draw through all 4 lps, turn. Follow chart for Rows 33-43 to form first end point (see Notes). Row 44: Ch 5, dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc working to last step (2 lps on hook), dtr in next dc drawing<br />
through all lps on hook, turn.<br />
<strong>Row 45</strong>: Ch 6, dc in next dc. Fasten off. Rep Rows 33-45 for rem end points,<br />
making sure to beg and end the first row of each end point at 4th dc in 7-dc strip bet panels.</p>
<p><strong>Finishing </strong><br />
Starting across long edge of wrap (row ends), join yarn in corner, ch 1, sc across<br />
long edge working 3 sc in each row-end to beg of end point. At points, *3 sc in dc sp, add bead, 3 sc in ch-1 sp; rep from * to tip of point. At tip of point, work 3 sc in row-end, add bead, 3 sc in ch-1 sp, add bead, 3 sc in row-end. Rep from to where panels join. At join, work 3 sc in sp before join, add bead in joining sp, 3 sc in sp after join. Cont as est along each end point to 2nd long edge of wrap, work 3 sc in each dc sp along long edge,then rep beading end points on opposite end, sl st in beg ch-1 to join. Fasten off. Weave in loose ends. Block to measurements.</p>
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		<title>Pineapple Curtain</title>
		<link>http://www.pattern-making.com/pineapple-curtain/</link>
		<comments>http://www.pattern-making.com/pineapple-curtain/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 26 Sep 2009 16:34:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crochet patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cardboard]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[curtain]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[edging]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pattern]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pineapple]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.pattern-making.com/?p=3196</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Size: 28 by 52 inches Materials: Lily Glo- Tone, cream (7 balls); steel crochet hook, size #7 (or whatever size needed for gauge); extra heavy starch; cardboard fabric cutting board; rustproof pins. Gauge: 3 blocks = 1 inch, 3 rows = 1 inch. Note: To make the length or width of the curtain larger or [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/pineapple-curtain.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-3200 alignnone" title="pineapple-curtain" src="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/pineapple-curtain-218x299.jpg" alt="" width="218" height="299" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;">
<p style="text-align: left;"><strong>Size</strong>: 28 by 52 inches</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><strong>Material</strong>s: Lily Glo- Tone, cream (7 balls); steel crochet hook, size #7 (or whatever size needed for gauge); extra heavy starch; cardboard fabric cutting board; rustproof pins.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Gauge: 3 blocks = 1 inch, 3 rows = 1 inch.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><strong>Note:</strong> To make the length or width of the curtain larger or smaller, increase or decrease the number of spaces in multiples of seven so the edging matches the change.<br />
Instructions:</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><strong>Row 1</strong>: ch 241; dc in 9th ch from hk; *ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch; rpt from * across row; ch 5, turn. (Note: ch 5 counts as 1st dc, ch 2 in next row) (80 spaces)<br />
<strong>Rows 2</strong> &#8211; 30: dc in next dc; *ch 2, dc in next dc; rpt from * across row; ch 5, turn.<br />
<strong>Rows 31 </strong>- 153: Refer to charted graph; (ch 5, turn at end of each row.) See page 12.<br />
<strong>Row 154</strong>: *dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc; rpt from * across row; ch 1, turn.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><strong>Diamond Pattern</strong>:<br />
For detail of diamond pattern inside pineapple, see Figure 3.<br />
<strong>Row 1</strong>: dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc.<br />
<strong>Row 2</strong>: dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc; ch 9, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc.<br />
<strong>Row 3</strong>: dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc; (ch 5, sc in ctr of ch 9 sp, ch 5); sk 3 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc.<br />
<strong>Row 4</strong>: dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc; (ch 6, sc in ch 5 sp, sc in sc, sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 6); sk 3 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc.<br />
<strong>Row 5</strong>: sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch 6 sp; (ch 6, sc in 2nd sc, ch 6); 3 dc in ch 6 sp, dc in next dc.<br />
<strong>Row 6</strong>: sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc, (3 dc in ch 6 sp, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch 6 sp), dc in next dc.<br />
<strong>Row 7:</strong> dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><strong>Edging</strong>:<br />
See Figure 4 for detail of top and side edging.<br />
<strong>Row 1</strong>: turn work a 1/4 turn; work 3 sc in each dc on sides, 3 sc in each corner st, and 1 sc in each st along bottom and top; join in 1st sc. See Figure 4 for close up of edging.<br />
<strong>Row 2</strong>: ch 5, leaving last Ip on hk, work 2 dtr in joining st, YO, draw through all Ips on hk (beg 3 dtr cl made); *sk 6 sc, in next sc work a 3 dtr cl, (3 dtrcl = leaving last Ip on h&#8217;k, work 3 dtr in same sc, YO, draw through all Ips on hk.) ch 9, 3 dtr cl in next sc; rpt from * around both sides and bottom; along top only work 1 hdc in each sc; ch 1, turn.<br />
<strong>Row 3</strong>: work 11 sc in each ch 9 sp around sides and bottom; at top, work 1 hdc in each hdc across row; join to 1 st sc; fasten off. Weave in ends.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><strong>To Stiffen</strong>: Saturate with starch and squeeze out excess. Pin to cutting board and allow to dry.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/part-3-and-4jpg.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-3201 alignnone" title="part-3-and-4jpg" src="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/part-3-and-4jpg-129x300.jpg" alt="" width="129" height="300" /></a></p>
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		<title>Large Lace Bell</title>
		<link>http://www.pattern-making.com/large-lace-bell/</link>
		<comments>http://www.pattern-making.com/large-lace-bell/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 May 2009 20:51:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crochet patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bell]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[designs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[draft pattern]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dressmaking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[edging]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[SIZE: 41/2&#8243; high MATERIALS Knit Cro Sheen crochet cotton &#8211; 72 yds (or bedspread weight crochet cotton, Size 7 steel crochet hook Styrofoam ball 1-1/2&#8243; diameter Styrofoam ball 3&#8243; diameter Styrofoam cone 9&#8243; high GAUGE: RNDS 1-3 = 21/2&#8243; INSTRUCTIONS Ch 8, sl st to form a ring. RND 1: Ch3 (first dc). Work 23 [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/large-lace-bell.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-3110 aligncenter" title="large-lace-bell" src="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/large-lace-bell-265x300.jpg" alt="" width="265" height="300" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><strong>SIZE:</strong> 41/2&#8243; high<br />
<strong>MATERIALS</strong><br />
Knit Cro Sheen crochet cotton &#8211; 72 yds (or bedspread weight crochet cotton,<br />
Size 7 steel crochet hook<br />
Styrofoam ball 1-1/2&#8243; diameter<br />
Styrofoam ball 3&#8243; diameter<br />
Styrofoam cone 9&#8243; high<br />
<strong>GAUGE</strong>: RNDS 1-3 = 21/2&#8243;<br />
<strong>INSTRUCTIONS</strong><br />
Ch 8, sl st to form a ring.<br />
RND 1: Ch3 (first dc). Work 23 dc in ring. SI st in top of ch 3 to join = 24 dc.<br />
<strong>RND 2</strong>: Ch 8 (first tr trc, ch 2). *1 tr trc (YO 4 times) in next dc, ch 2. Rep from * 23 times. SI st in 6th ch of ch 8 to join = 24 tr trc.<br />
<strong>RND 3</strong>: Ch 3. Work 1 dc in each st around. SI st in top of ch 3 to join.<br />
<strong>RND 4:</strong> Ch 1, sc in same st as sl st. *Ch 5, sk 2 dc, sc in next dc. Rep from * 23 times. Ch 2, 1 dc in first sc to join = 24 ch 5 Ips.<br />
<strong>RND 5:</strong> Sc in joining Ip. *Ch 5, sc in next Ip. Rep from * 23 times. Ch 2, 1 dc in first sc to join.<br />
<strong>RND 6:</strong> Ch 4 (first trc). Holding back last Ip of each st on hk, work 2 trc in same Ip as ch 4. YO, and pull through all 3 Ips on hk at the same time (first cluster made). *Ch 5.<br />
Holding back last Ip of each st on hk, work 3 trc in next ch 5 Ip. YO and pull through all 4 Ips on hk at the same time. Rep from * 23 times. Ch 2, 1 dc in top of first<br />
cluster to join.<br />
<strong>RND 7:</strong> Sc in joining Ip. Ch 2. *Sc in next Ip, ch 2. Rep from * around. SI st in first sc to join.<br />
<strong>RND 8, 9, 10</strong>: Rep RND 3, 4, 5 once.<br />
<strong>RND 11</strong>: Ch 3 (first dc). 1 dc in same Ip as ch 3. Ch 3, sl st in last dc made (first picot made). Ch 4, sl st in same dc (ch 4 picot made). Ch 3, sl st in same dc. 1 dc in same Ip<br />
as beg ch 3. Ch 1. *2 dc in next ch 51p. Ch 3, sl.st in last dc. Ch 4, sl st in same dc. Ch 3, sl st in same dc. 1 dc in same ch 51p. Ch 1. Rep from * around. SI st in top of beg<br />
ch 3 to join. Break off.<br />
<strong>RND 12</strong>: Join in any ch 4 picot. Sc in same picot, ch 3. *Sc in next ch 4 picot, ch 3. Rep from * 23 times. SI st in first sc to join = 24 ch 2 sps.<br />
<strong>RND 13:</strong> Ch 5 (first dc, ch 2). Sc in first ch 3 sp, ch 2. *1 dc in next sc. Ch 2, sc in next ch 3 sp, ch 2. Rep from * around. SI st in 3rd ch of ch 5 to join.<br />
<strong>RND 14:</strong> Ch 8 (first trc, ch 4). *1 trc in next dc, ch 4. Rep from * around. SI st in 4th ch of ch 5 to join.<br />
<strong>RND 15</strong>: Ch 6 (first dc, ch 3). Sc in first ch 4 sp, ch 3. *1 dc in next trc. Ch 3, sc in next ch 4 sp, ch 3. Rep from * around. SI st in 3rd ch of ch 6 to join.<br />
<strong>RND 16</strong>: Ch 10 (first dtr, ch 5). *1 dtr in next dc, ch 5. Rep from * around. SI st in 5th ch of ch 10 to join.<br />
<strong>EDGING</strong><br />
<strong>RND 17</strong>: Ch 7 (first dc, ch 4).1 dc in 4th ch from hk, 1 dc in same st as sl st. *Sk 2 sts. 1 dc in next st. Ch 4,1 dc in 4th ch from hk. 1 dc in same st as first dc. Rep from * around. SI st in 3rd ch of beg ch 7 to join. Finish off.<br />
<strong>HANGER LOOP</strong><br />
ROW 1: Join in beg ch 8 ring. Ch 10, sl st in opposite side of ch 8 ring.<br />
ROW 2: Ch 1, turn. Work 20 sc in ch 10 Ip. Finish off.<br />
<strong>CLAPPER</strong><br />
<strong>GAUGE</strong>: RNDS 1-4 = Hi&#8221; Ch 6, sl st to form a ring.<br />
<strong>RND 1</strong>: Ch 2 (first hdc). Work 11 hdc in ring (= 12 hdc).<br />
Do not join but work in continuous RNDS.<br />
<strong>RND 2</strong>: Work 2 hdc in each hdc around = 24 hdc ..<br />
<strong>RND 3</strong>: *1 hdc in next hdc, ch 1. Rep from * around.<br />
<strong>RND 4 . 8:</strong> *1 hdc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1. Rep from * around. Slip 1V2&#8243; styrofoam ball inside.<br />
<strong>RND 9:</strong> Work 1 hdc in each ch 1 sp around.<br />
<strong>RND 10,</strong> 11: Dec, working 1 hdc in next 2 hdc at the same time until only 6 sts remain. Sk 2 hdc, sl st in next hdc to close.<br />
<strong>ROW</strong> 12: Ch 31/2&#8243; length. Finish off.<br />
<strong>BLOCKING </strong><br />
Measure up 3&#8243; from wide end of cone. Trim off top 6&#8243;. Bottom piece should measure about 3&#8243; high x 3&#8243; across top and 3314&#8243; across bottom. Cut 3&#8243; ball in half and glue<br />
one half on top of remaining 3&#8243; high cone .<br />
Cover with plastic wrap. Draw a 5&#8243; diameter circle on a piece of paper and cover with plastic on pinning board. Set cone in center of circle. Dip bell in stiffening solution<br />
and shape over mold pinning last round flat on pinning board outside the circle. Shape hanger loop and hold open with large pen or candle. Dip clapper in stiffening<br />
solution taking care not to wet 31/2&#8243; chain. Stitch or glue clapper to bell when pieces are dry.</p>
<p><strong>Please report all typing arrow in my comment box. Thanks </strong></p>
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		<title>Peter Pan Collar-Vintage Crochet</title>
		<link>http://www.pattern-making.com/peter-pan-collarvintage-crochet/</link>
		<comments>http://www.pattern-making.com/peter-pan-collarvintage-crochet/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 25 Oct 2008 00:52:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Collar pattern Drafting]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[Vintage]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[MATERIALS: Clark&#8217;s O.N.T. Best Six Cord Mercerized Crochet, Art. B.4, Size 50: 2 halls of White &#8230; Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 12. Starting at inner edge of collar, ch 203 to measure 12 inches. 1st row: Sc in 3rd ch from hook (picot made), ch 5, skip 3 ch, sc in next ch, * [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>MATERIALS</strong>:<br />
Clark&#8217;s O.N.T. Best Six Cord Mercerized<a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/peterpan-collar.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-2048" title="peterpan-collar" src="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/peterpan-collar-225x300.jpg" alt="" width="225" height="300" /></a><br />
Crochet, Art. B.4, Size 50: 2<br />
halls of White &#8230; Milwards Steel<br />
Crochet Hook No. 12.<br />
Starting at inner edge of collar,<br />
ch 203 to measure 12 inches.<br />
<strong>1st row:</strong> Sc in 3rd ch from hook (picot made), ch 5, skip 3 ch, sc in next ch, * ch 1,<br />
picot, ch 5, skip 3 ch, sc in next ch. Repeat from * across. Turn.<br />
<strong>2nd to 11th rows</strong> incl: Sl st to center of first loop, sc in same loop, *ch 1, picot, ch 5, sc in next loop. Repeat from * across. Turn. Break off at end of 11th row.<br />
<strong>EDGING </strong><br />
<strong>1st row:</strong> Attach thread to end of first row on collar, sc in same place, * ch 5, sc in next loop. Repeat from * across to opposite end of first row. Ch 1, turn.<br />
<strong>2nd row:</strong> Cut 6 strands of thread slightly longer than<br />
outer edge of collar. Working over these strands, make 6 sc in each sp. Cut off remaining strands. Ch 1, turn.<br />
<strong>3rd row</strong>: * Picot, ch 5, skip 4 sc, sc in next sc, ch 1. Repeat from * across, ending with sc in last sc. Ch 5, turn.<br />
<strong>4th row</strong>: * Sc in next loop, ch 5. Repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn.<br />
<strong>5th row</strong>: Repeat 2nd row.<br />
<strong>6th row</strong>: * Picot, ch 5, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc, ch 1. Repeat from * across, ending with sc in last sc. Ch 1, turn.<br />
<strong>7th and 8th rows:</strong> * Picot, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 1. Repeat from * across. Ch 1, turn. Break off at end of 8th row. Attach thread to inner edge of collar and sc closely across. Break off.<br />
Starch lightly and press.</p>
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		<title>Rose and Ruffles-Vintage Crochet</title>
		<link>http://www.pattern-making.com/rose-rufflesvintage-crochet/</link>
		<comments>http://www.pattern-making.com/rose-rufflesvintage-crochet/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 24 Oct 2008 23:53:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crochet patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Collar pattern Drafting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[edging]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rosette]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Vintage]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.pattern-making.com/?p=2039</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[MATERIALS: Clark&#8217;s O.N.T. Best Six Cord Mercerized Crochet, Art. B.4, Size 50: 4 balls of White Milwards Steel Crochet Hook No. 12. TRIANGULAR PIECE (Make 2) Starting at inner edge, ch 163 to measure l01/2 inches. st row: Sc in 3rd ch from hook (picot made), ch 5,skip 4 ch, sc in next ch, * [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>MATERIALS:</strong> Clark&#8217;s O.N.T. Best Six Cord Mercerized<br />
Crochet, Art. B.4, Size 50:<a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/motive.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-2040" title="motive" src="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/motive-228x300.jpg" alt="" width="228" height="300" /></a><br />
4 balls of White Milwards Steel<br />
Crochet Hook No. 12.<br />
TRIANGULAR PIECE (Make 2)<br />
Starting at inner edge, ch 163 to measure l01/2 inches.<br />
st row: Sc in 3rd ch from hook (picot made), ch 5,skip 4 ch, sc in next ch, * ch 4, sc in 3rd ch from hook (another picot   made), ch 5, skip 4 ch, sc in next ch.<br />
Repeat from * across. Turn. 2nd row:<br />
Sl st to center of first loop, sc in same loop (1 loop decreased), * ch 1, picot, ch 5, sc in next loop preceding picot. Repeat from * across, ending with sc in last loop. Turn.&#8217; Repeat<br />
2nd row until 1 loop remains. Break<br />
off.<br />
<strong>BACK OF NECK </strong><br />
Attach thread to first sp on inner edge of one triangular piece, ch 90 to measure 6 inches. SI st in corresponding sp on other triangular piece. Ch 1, turn.<br />
<strong>1st row:</strong> * Picot, ch 5, skip 4 ch, sc in next ch, ch 1. Repeat from * across, ending with sc in last ch.<br />
Break off.<br />
<strong>FIRST ROSETTE</strong> Starting at center, ch 5. Join with sl st to form ring. 1st rnd: (Ch 5, sc in ring) 5 times. 2nd rnd: In each loop around make sc, half dc, 3 dc, half dc and sc.<br />
<strong>3rd rnd:</strong> * Ch 5, sc between next 2 petals. Repeat from * around.<br />
<strong>4th rnd</strong>: In each loop around&#8217; make sc, half dc, 5 dc, half dc and sc. Join.<br />
<strong>5th rnd</strong>: Sl st to first dc, sc in same place * ch 1, picot, ch 5, skip 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 1, picot, ch 5, sc in first dc of next petal. Repeat from * around. Join and break off (10 loops).<br />
<strong>SECOND ROSETTE</strong> Work as for First Rosette until 4 rnds are completed.<br />
<strong>5th rnd</strong>: Sl st to, first dc, sc in same dc, ch 1, picot, ch 2, sl st in corresponding loop on First Rosette, ch 2, skip 3 dc on Second Rosette, sc in next dc, ch 1, picot, ch 2, sl st<br />
in next loop on First Rosette, ch 2, sc in first dc of next petal on Second Rosette. Complete rnd (no more joining) Make 5 more Rosettes, joining adjacent sides as Second Rosette was joined to First Rosette, leaving 3 loops free on each side of joining. To form corner: Join next Rosette to preceding Rosette as before, leaving<br />
only 1 loop free on inner edge. Join 17 more Rosettes the same as before. Complete next corner and side<br />
as before.<br />
<strong>HEADING </strong>Attach thread to 4th free loop preceding joining on First Rosette, sc in same loop, ch 5, dc in<br />
next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, dc in next loop, ch 5, d tr in next joining, (ch 5, dc in first loop on next Rosette, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, dc in next loop, ch 5, d tr in next joining) 5 times; ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, d tr in next joining (corner), work across back and other side the same way. Turn.<br />
<strong>JOINING</strong> &#8230; Ch 3, sc in first sp on side of Collar, * ch 3, sc in next sp on Heading, ch 3, sc in next sp on Collar. Repeat from * across. Break off.<br />
<strong>EDGING </strong><br />
st row: Attach thread to first free loop on First Rosette on Collar, sc in same place, ch 10, (dc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, dc in next loop, ch 5, d tr in next joining, ch 5) 6 times; dc in next loop, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 5, in next loop make tr, ch 5 and tr (corner); ch 5, sc in next loop and complete as for first row of Heading, working next corner the same way. Ch 1, turn. Cut 6 strands of thread slightly longer than outer edge of Collar.<br />
<strong>2nd row</strong>: Working over these 6 strands, sc closely around Collar. Cut off remaining strands. Ch 1, turn. 3rd row: * Picot, ch 5, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc, ch 1. Repeat from *<br />
across.<br />
<strong>4th to 10th rows</strong> incl: * Picot, ch 5, sc in next loop, ch 1. Repeat from * across. Turn. Break off at end of l0th row.<br />
Starch lightly and press.</p>
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		<title>flower basket shawl</title>
		<link>http://www.pattern-making.com/flower-basket-shawl/</link>
		<comments>http://www.pattern-making.com/flower-basket-shawl/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 12 Oct 2008 02:58:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Free Knitting patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[edging]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[shawl]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[yarn]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.pattern-making.com/?p=1720</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This delicately patterned triangular shawl looks more complicated than it is. the shawl is knitted from the fleck down in a double strand of lace-weight alpaca at a gauge of four stitches to the inch. the yarn overs that form the flower-basket lace pattern are worked on right-side rows only: every wrong -side row is [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>This delicately patterned</strong> triangular shawl looks more complicated than it is. the shawl is knitted from the fleck down in a double strand of lace-weight alpaca at a gauge of four stitches to the inch. the yarn overs that form the flower-basket lace pattern are <a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/wwwpattern-makingcom32-oct-11-2050.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-1721" title="wwwpattern-makingcom32-oct-11-2050" src="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/wwwpattern-makingcom32-oct-11-2050-300x267.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="267" /></a><br />
worked on right-side rows only: every wrong -side row is purled .. the pointed edging flows neatly from the last row of the ten- row pattern repeat, which makes it easy to adjust the size of the shawl. for a smaller version. skip the last. repeat and begin the border; for a larger version, work several more baskets before beginning the edging. the final row of the border is 1worked without decreases for g crisp finish,</p>
<p><a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/flower-basket-shawl.pdf"></a><a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/flowers-basket-shawl.pdf">flowers-basket-shawl</a><br />
<strong>Click the link above to view full Pattern with Adobe Reader<br />
<a href="http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html" target="_blank">download Adobe Reader here</a></strong></p>
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		<title>Crochet V-Neck Dress</title>
		<link>http://www.pattern-making.com/crochet-vneck-dress/</link>
		<comments>http://www.pattern-making.com/crochet-vneck-dress/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Oct 2008 23:48:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crochet patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[abbreviation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dress pattern Drafting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[edging]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Free Knitting patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garment]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.pattern-making.com/?p=1598</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[ABBREVIATIONS Alt., alternate; beg., beginning, ch., chain; ch-sp., chain space; em, centimetres; d.c., double crochet; dec., decrease; d.tr., double treble; h.tr., half treble; in., inch(es); inc., increase; k., knit; p., purl; patt., pattern; p.s.s.o., pass slipped stitch over; rep., repeat; sl., slip; sl.st., slip stitch; st., stitch; sts., stitches; t.b.i., through back of loop; tog., [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>ABBREVIATIONS </strong><br />
Alt., alternate; beg., beginning, ch., chain; ch-sp., chain space; em, centimetres; d.c., double crochet; dec., decrease; d.tr., double treble; h.tr., half treble; in., inch(es); inc., increase; k., knit; p., purl; patt., pattern; p.s.s.o., pass slipped stitch over; rep., repeat; sl., slip; sl.st., slip stitch; st., stitch; sts., stitches; t.b.i., through back of loop; tog., together; tr., treble; y.o., yarn over.<a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/crochet-dress.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-1599" title="crochet-dress" src="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/crochet-dress-144x300.jpg" alt="" width="144" height="300" /></a><br />
<strong>NEEDLES</strong><br />
Where applicable, check your knitting needle sizes very carefully, as both Metric and old U.K. sizes have been quoted.<br />
<strong>TENSION</strong><br />
It is essential that you test your tension before commencing the garment you have chosen to make.<br />
Using the hook size recommended work a square to measure 10 cm x 10 cm (4 in. x 4 in.) If you get less stitches than stated, use a size smaller hook, if you get more, use a size larger hook.</p>
<p><strong>SPECIAL ABBREVIATION </strong><br />
Tr.2tog., work 1 tr. into next st. until 2 loops remain on hook, work 1 tr. into next st. until 3 loops remain on hook, y.o. and through all 3 loops.<br />
<strong>NOTES </strong><br />
Count each 2 ch-sp. as 2 sts., working into spaces throughout.<br />
When rejoining yarn make a slip knot on hook, insert hook into next st., y.o. and through both loops.<br />
<strong>BACK </strong><br />
Make 114(114,132,132,132,150) ch.<br />
<strong>1st row</strong>: Work 1 tr. into 4th ch. from hook, work 1 tr. into each ch. to end. 111 (111, 129,129,129,147) tr., plus 3 ch. at beg. of row.<br />
<strong>2nd row</strong>: 3 ch. (count as 1 tr.), 1 tr. into each st. to end, working last tr. into 3rd of 3 ch. at beg. of previous row.<br />
<strong>Commence Diamond Border </strong><br />
<strong>1st row</strong>: 5 ch. (count as 1 tr., 2 ch.), miss next 2 sts., *1 tr. into next st., 2 ch., miss next 2 sts.; rep. from * to last st., 1 tr. into last st.<br />
<strong>2nd row</strong>: 3 ch., 1 tr. into each st. to end (see Notes) .<br />
<strong>3rd row:</strong> 3 ch., work 1 tr. into each of next 9 tr., * 2 ch., miss next 2 sts., 1 tr. into each of next 16 sts.; rep. from * to last 12 sts., 2 ch., miss next 2 sts., 1 tr. into each st. to end.<br />
<strong>4th row</strong>: 3 ch., work 1 tr. into each of next 6 tr., *2ch., miss next 2 sts., 1 tr. into each of next4 sts., 2 ch., miss next 2 sts., 1 tr. into each of next 10 sts.; rep from * to last 15 sts., 2 ch., miss next 2 sts., 1 tr. into each of next 4 sts., 2 ch., miss next 2 sts., 1 tr. into each st. to end.<br />
<strong>5th row:</strong> 3 ch., work 1 tr. into each of next 3 tr., *2ch., miss next 2 sts., 1 tr. into each of next 10 sts., 2 ch., miss next 2 sts., 1 tr. into each of next 4 sts.; rep. from * to end.<br />
<strong>6th row</strong>: 5 ch., miss next 2 sts., * work 1 tr. into each of next 16 sts., 2 ch., miss next 2 sts.; rep. from * to last st., 1 tr. into last st.<br />
<strong>7th row</strong>: As 5th row.<br />
<strong>8th row</strong>: As 4th row. <strong>9th row</strong>: As 3rd row.<br />
<strong>10th row</strong>: 3 ch., 1 tr. into each st. to end. <strong>11th row</strong>: As 1 st row.<br />
<strong>12th row</strong>: 3 ch., 1 tr. into each st. to end.<br />
These 12 rows complete the Diamond Border.<br />
Next row: (Decrease) 3 ch., tr.2tog. (see Special Abbreviation), work in trs. to last 3 sts., tr.2tog., 1 tr. into last tr. (1 st. decreased at each end of row). Continuing in trs. only dec. 1 st. at each end as before on every following 8th( 10th, 6th, 7th, 9th, 5th) row until 90(94,100, 106,110,116) sts. remain. Work straight until back measures 34-1- in. or required length to armholes. Place a marker at each end of last row to mark end of side seam *. Work straight until armholes measure 6-3/4 (7, 7-1/2, 8, 8-1/4. 8-3/4) in. from marker.<br />
<strong>Shape Back Neck </strong><br />
Next row: 3 ch., work in trs. across next 29 (31,33,36,37,40) sts., tr.2tog., 1 tr. into next tr., turn and complete this side first. Dec. 1 st. at neck edge on following alt. row. 31 (33, 35, 38, 39,42) sts. remain. Work 1 row. Fasten off.<br />
Miss next 24(24,26,26,28,28) sts. at centre. Rejoin yarn to next st. (see Notes), 3 ch., tr.2tog., work in trs. to end. 32(34, 36,39,40,43) sts. Dec. 1 st. at neck edge on following alt. row. Work 1 row. Fasten off.<br />
<strong>FRONT </strong><br />
Work as given for Back to *.<br />
Divide for V-Neck<br />
<strong>1st row: </strong>3 ch., work in trs. across next 41 (43,46,49,51 ,54) sts., tr.2tog., 1 tr. into next tr., turn and complete this side first. 44(46,49,52,54,57) sts.<br />
** Dec. 1 st. at neck edge on next 7(6, 6,6,6,5) rows, then every alt. row until 31(33,35,38,39,42) sts. remain. Work straight until front measures same as back to shoulder. Fasten off.<br />
Rejoin yarn to next st. at centre, 3 ch., tr.2tog., work in trs. to end. 44(46,49,52, 54,57) sts. Complete as given for first side from ** to end.<br />
<strong> NECK EDGING </strong><a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/wwwpattern-makingcom03-oct-04-1825.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-1601" title="wwwpattern-makingcom03-oct-04-1825" src="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/wwwpattern-makingcom03-oct-04-1825-300x126.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="126" /></a><br />
Join shoulder seams. With right side of work facing and starting at centre front neck, work 41 (41,44,46,49,49) d.c. evenly up right front slope, 38(38,38,40, 40,40) d.c. around back neck and 41 (41, 44,46,49,49) d.c. down left front slope, sl. st. to join. 120( 120, 126, 132, 138, 138) d.c.<br />
Next round: (Shells) * Miss 2 d.c., work 5 tr. into next d.c., miss 2 d.c., work 1 d.c. into next d.c.; rep. from * to end, sl.st. to join. Fasten off.<br />
<strong>ARMHOLE EDGING </strong><br />
1 Join side seams to markers. With right side of work facing and starting at underarm seam, work 78(84,90,90,96,102) d.c. evenly round armhole edge, sl.st. to join. Work shells as given for Neck Edging.<br />
<strong>HEM EDGING </strong><br />
With right side of work facing work 222(222,258,258,258,294) d.c. evenly round hem, sl.st: to join.<br />
Work shells as given for Neck Edging.</p>
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		<title>Buttonholes and button bands</title>
		<link>http://www.pattern-making.com/buttonholes-button-bands/</link>
		<comments>http://www.pattern-making.com/buttonholes-button-bands/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 01:00:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Free Knitting patterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[buttonhole]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[edging]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[knit stitch]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[neck sweater]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.pattern-making.com/?p=1282</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[If your garment has separately worked button and buttonhole bands, you should first pin the fronts to the back at shoulder seams. Then pin The bands to the front, taking care to ensure that the lower&#8217; edge of the garment forms a straight edge One stitch should be taken from the band and the cardigan [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="mceTemp"><strong>If your garment has separately worked</strong><br />
button and buttonhole bands, you should first pin the fronts to <a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/screenhunter_16-aug-20-1824.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-1283" title="screenhunter_16-aug-20-1824" src="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/screenhunter_16-aug-20-1824-300x239.jpg" alt="" width="254" height="313" /></a>the back at shoulder seams. Then pin The bands to the front, taking care to ensure that the lower&#8217; edge of the garment forms a straight edge One stitch should be taken from the band and the cardigan to form the seam.<br />
<strong>Reinforced cardigan bands:</strong> You can create a really professional finish on a cardigan by reinforcing he front bands with grosgrain ribbon facings. First. pin a facing in place on the wrong) side of each band, taking care not to stretch the knitting. Slipstitch the facings in place, as shown, On the buttonhole band, cut the buttonholes in the facing to match the buttonholes on the garment and work buttonhole stitch around each one using a matching sewing thread. Sew the buttons to the button band in corresponding positions.<br />
<strong>Buttonholes:</strong> To knit a horizontal buttonhole, work to the positron of the buttonhole, bind off one, two or three stitches, then work 10<a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/screenhunter_17-aug-20-1826.jpg"></a> the end of the row. On the next row, cast on the same number of stitches over those cast-off. On the following row, pick up the loose thread at the base of the buttonhole. work the next stitch and puss the picked up stitch over it.<br />
<strong>Horizontal buttonhole:</strong> To make a vertical buttonhole, divide the stitches at the buttonhole position and work an equal number of rows on each set of stitches, then join up with a row of stitches worked right across.<br />
<strong>Neckbands</strong>: When you work the neck trimming on a garment, you will usually have to pick up stitches along the edge of the knitting The following tips help to create a tidy edging,<br />
On a V-neck sweater, a neat appearance is achieved by keeping a single knit stitch up the center front, on the right side of the work, To do this, pick up an even number of stitches on each side of the V and one at the center front, so when you work in kl, pi rib, this center stitch will always be a k 1, <a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/screenhunter_17-aug-20-18261.jpg"></a>The V is shaped by working a decrease on each side of the center k 1,<br />
It is easiest to pick up stitches evenly if you divide the edge with pins, If you &#8216;have 60 stitches to pick up, for example, along the front slope off a cardigan, you can divide this Into 10 equal sections With pins and pick up six stitches in each section.<br />
Dividing the neck evenly: Picking up and knitting stitches When you pick up and knit along cast-off stitches across the front and back of the neck, knit through both loops, This will avoid loose stitches and ladder-like holes, <a href="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/screenhunter_17-aug-20-18262.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-1286" title="screenhunter_17-aug-20-18262" src="http://www.pattern-making.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/screenhunter_17-aug-20-18262-205x300.jpg" alt="" width="205" height="300" /></a><br />
<strong>A shaped edge where decreases</strong> have been worked has an alternate long and short stitch, Knit through all loops as required, spacing them evenly, but work twice into long loops for more stretches omit some of the long loops for less, When picking up and knitting stitches along the straight side of the neck through rows. insert the needle through both loops,<br />
<strong>Picking up dropped stitches: </strong>If a stitch is accidentally dropped, it is easiest to use a crochet hook to pick it up, even if it has unraveled a few rows down. To pick up knit stitches, insert the hook into the<br />
dropped stitch, catch the bar lying above the dropped stitch and pull it through, To pick up purl stitches, simply turn the work over and use the same method as for knit stitches,<br />
<strong>Joining in new yarn</strong>: Whenever possible, Join a new ball of yarn at the beginning of a row, Where a new ball of yarn has to be Joined in the middle of a row, you can make a neat join by splicing the yarn, Unravel a short length of the yarn from the old ball and the new one, and cut away a strand or two from each, Twist the remaining strands together to make one thickness of yarn, Knit carefully through this join,, trimming off any stray ends.</div>
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