The Basics
Home decorator sewing requires the same basic equipment as dressmaker sewing, with the addition of tools for measuring windows and furniture. Using the proper equipment makes the work easier and the results more satisfying.
1) Needle threader eases threading of hand and machine needles.
2) Pins with plastic or glass heads are easier to see and handle.
3) Thimble protects your middle finger when you sew by hand.
4) Needles for general hand sewing are Shil1PS. Buy a package of assorted sizes for various sewing tasks.
5) T-pins are long, sturdy, broad-headed pins which are used to anchor fabrics to solid surfaces.
6) Quilting pins are extra long and useful for working with heavy or thick materials.
7) All-purpose thread is used for hand and machine sewing on most fabrics. Choose all-cotton, cotton Wrapped polyester or all-polyester thread, depending on the fiber content of the fabric.

Measuring Tools
The most important consideration in home decorator sewing is accurate measuring. The following measuring aids help you make correct calculations for buying and cutting fabric.
1) Carpenter’s square is an L-shaped ruler, used to determine the perfect right angles and square corners that are essential to the fit of curtains, shades, tablecloths and pillows.
2) Wood folding ruler is used for measuring large areas. Because of its stability, this ruler is more accurate than a tape measure.
3) Yardstick is used for measuring long, flat lengths of fabric, and for marking and squaring grain lines. The surface of the yardstick should be smooth so it does not snag fabric.
4) Spring-return metal tape measures windows and other large areas. It is also handy for measuring around curves.
5) Seam gauge makes quick, short measurements such as those for hems. The 6″ (15 em) metal or plastic ruler has a sliding marker for accuracy in measuring.

Marking & Cutting Tools
After making careful calculations and taking accurate measurements mark and cut the fabric in preparation for sewing. Have on hand an assortment of marking tools for various fabric colors and textures. Good quality cutting tools are also a smart investment.
1) Cutting board is marked with horizol1t.al and vertical lines, and is useful for laying out and cutting lengths of fabric up to 2 yards (1.85 meters). It is made of heavy cardboard so fabric can he pinned in place. Two boards may be necessary for large items such as floor-length curtains.
2) ‘Tailor’s chalk is specially designed to mark directly on fabric and rub off easily.
3) Trimmers have straight handles and are used for trimming and straightening edges. A lightweight, slim blade aids accuracy,
4) Seam ripper is used to remove stitches. Use it with care to avoid ripping fabric.
5) Bent handled shears allow fabric to remain flat during cutting. Shears should be lightweight, easy to handle and 8″ or 9″ (20.5 or 23 cm) long.
6) Liquid marking pencils make sharp, defined lines on firm fabrics. One type of pencil makes a mark that can be removed with dear water; the other makes a mark that disappears in 18 hours. Test marking pencils on a fabric scrap before using. Ironing permanently sets the markings; if markings are on the right side of the fabric; do not press until they are removed.

Notions
Notions serve three purposes in home decorator sewing. Some, such as the rings used on Roman shades, are essential to the construction of an item; others, such as fusible web and fabric glue, make sewing easier. Notions such as braids, trims, pipings and ribbons are simply decorative.
1) Decorative trims such as bias tape (la), piping (lb) and ribbon (1c) are available in a wide range of colors and styles to complement the items you sew. Select trims with the same care requirements as the decorator fabric.
2) Cords, tapes and rings (2a) have specific uses on certain projects. These notions are described in the directions for projects which require them.
3) Fusible web is used for hemming or for bonding two layers of fabric together; It is available in narrow strips for hems, or in 18″ (46 cm) widths for fusing larger areas.
4) Fabric adhesives such as glue stick (4a) and craft or white glue’(4b) may be used for temporary basting, or for permanently applying batting or trims to items which will not receive much handling.
5) Liquid fray preventer dries invisibly and prevents the raw edge of fabric from fraying. Use it as a temporary agent to prevent raveling while working with fabric, or as permanent finish oil exposed seams and edges.
6) Stain-resistant spray can be used on many home decorating items to prevent spills from soaking into fabric. To apply, follow instructions on the container.

Posted specially for viewers of pattern-making who write and asked for this information, hope this help, good luck

{Credit}
Singer Sewing for the Home
Copyright 1984-1988

1. Measure directly up from the dart point the amount you wish to lengthen the dart. Mark the new dart point.
2. Draw new dart legs starting at the ends of the original darts and ending at the raised dart point
The broken lines in diagram shown represent the original darts; the solid lines, the new darts.

HOW MUCH?
Here is a guide for shortening designer’s darts to convert them into dressmaker’s darts. Keep in mind that “standards” may be meaningless when applied to individual requirements. Shorten the darts the amount that looks best and feels most comfortable.
Bodice: The front-waistline dart is shortened 1/2 inch from bustpoint height, * the back-waistline dart is shortened 1 inch from the shoulder-blade height.
The underarm dart is shortened 2 inches or more from the bust point. (This dart is generally at bust-point height. Should it be on a slight angle it must end at bust-point height no matter where it originates on the side seam.) Heavy-bosomed figures may bring the underarm dart closer to the bust point for additional shaping.
A front-shoulder dart is shortened 2 inches or more from the bust point. It too, may be brought closer to the bust point in heavy bosomed figures. The back-shoulder dart is usually stitched to a finished length of 3 inches.
The French underarm dart is an exception. It may be stitched to the bust point except in larger figures when it is shortened 1/2 inch or more.
Sleeve: The elbow dart is usually stitched to a finished length of 2 inches. * The terms “height” and “point” refer to the high point of the curve.
Only in very small or youthful figures and only in very form revealing
garments are darts stitched to the dart point. That would be asking too much of most figures.
Generally, in dressmaking and tailoring, the darts are shortened somewhat to give a sculptured, soft effect and a little more ease.
These shortened darts are called dressmaker’s darts.Designer’s darts are used in making a pattern. Dressmaker’s darts
are used in making a garment.
All darts in commercial patterns are shortened darts. Should you wish to relocate such a dart you would first have to extend it to the designer’s dart point.
All darts in the patterns you are creating are unshortened darts.For your final pattern, these will have to be shortened to dressmaker’s
darts.

HOW TO SHORTEN A DART
1. Measure down from the dart point the amount you wish to shorten the dart. Mark the new dart point in the center of the space.
2. Draw new dart legs starting at the ends of the original darts and ending at the lowered dart point. It is not the amount
of control you wish to change, merely the length of the dart

Skirt: The skirt-front dart is shortened 2 inches from the high point of the front hipbone.
The skirt-back dart is shortened 1 inch from the high point of the buttocks.
Frequently skirt darts fit better when un shortened (or shortened very little) so that the dart releases the greatest amount of material
where the figure is fullest.

Shapely Dart

Straight dart legs must always be equal in length, AB equals BC (Fig. a). If they are not, make them so. Wherever possible, balance the dart on grain to avoid puckering when stitched., When the dart legs are curved, one (AB) may be a little longer than the other (BC) (Fig. b). Ease AB into BC. Because of the angle, it is comparatively easy to “ease” a curve.
Straight dart legs ending just short of the high point (ADC-dressmaker’s dart)” provide ease in the bulge area (Fig. c). Dart legs stitched to the dart point remove the ease (ABC) (Fig. c).
When the dart legs are “bowed” for closer fit (as in an evening or cocktail dress), the ease is removed (Fig.d).