Darts need not always be straight lines. They may be curved for interest. For instance, a French underarm dart looks quite pretty when it is a curved rather than a straight line (Fig. 16). 1. On the cut-out sloper with the cut-out dart, locate the position of the new dart. Mark the point A. 2. [...]

There is a folklore that tells of someone's mother or great aunt or clever little dressmaker who could cut out any garment without a pattern. Like many a myth there is an element of truth in the story. anyone-amateur or professional-who sews a great deal can be so familiar with the shape of a sleeve [...]

One dart can be good. Two darts can be better. More darts may be better yet. Only the normal restrictions of good design set the limit to the number of divisions of the dart control. Sometimes the amount of dart control is just too much burden for a single dart. It produces too great a [...]

1. Measure directly up from the dart point the amount you wish to lengthen the dart. Mark the new dart point. 2. Draw new dart legs starting at the ends of the original darts and ending at the raised dart point The broken lines in diagram shown represent the original darts; the solid lines, the [...]

Sewing Your Straight Skirt Begin by printing and joining your pattern as shown. (Do not lap pattern) Next you lay your fabric out so the stretch goes width ways. Stretch the fabric to see which way has the most stretch. This is the way your skirt will go around your hip. Cutting the front Fold [...]

Darts are narrow pointed folds that give shape and structure to many garments Darts is used to shape a flat piece of fabric to fit Waist, Hip, Bust or body curves. There are two types of darts. A single-pointed dart is widely use in skirts, pants, blouse etc. Start sewing this dart at the waist [...]

how to draft dress foundation use the fitted waist foundation as a guide to draft the dress foundation, as follows: (1) ease allowance for the dress foundation trace the outline of the front and back fitted bodice waist foundation; then add the extra ease allowance needed for the dress foundation at side seam of front [...]

(junior petite and teen sizes) The pattern measurements and drafts shown below, are for the dress bodice and sleeve for junior petite – size 7, and for teen size 12. junior petite pattern are proportionately designed for the fully developed figure, about 5 ft tall. teen size patterns are designed for the fairly developed  figure, [...]

The illustrations above show how to take the following arm measurements: 1. Underarm length – from armhole to wrist. 2. Arm circumference – a little below armhole. 3. Elbow circumference – with arm bent up. 4. Over arm length – from shoulder to wrist. 5. Wrist circumference – a loose measurement. how to draft the [...]