How to Sew a Continental or Cornice Rod Casing with a Heading

1) Measure window after rod has been installed to determine total length. Add 151/2′ (39.3 cm): 5/12′ (14 cm) for the casing and seam allowance, 8″ (20.5 cm) for the double-fold hem, and 2″ (5 cm) for I” (2.5 cm) heading. For a deeper heading, add twice the desired heading depth.

2) Turn under ½”’ (1.3 cm) on upper edge of curtain and press. Fold over again 6″ (15 cm) for casing and heading. Stitch 1″ (2.5 cm) from upper folded edge to form heading. Stitch close to folded edge to form casing.

3) Insert rod through casing and gather curtain evenly onto rod. Hang on installed brackets. For a wide heading, use two Continental or cornice rods, installed one above the other. Add 10″ (25.5 cm) for second casing.

How to Make a Shirred Pole Cover

1) Cut fabric two and one-half times the length of pole area to be covered; cut width equal to circumference of pole plus 1-1/2″ (3.8 cm). For pole cover with a heading, add amount equal to twice the heading depth.

2) Stitch ½” (1.3 cm) hems on short ends. Fold strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and pin long edges together. Stitch 1/2″ (1.3 cm) seam. Press seam open. Turn cover right side out.

3) Press cover so that seam is at back of pole. To form heading, stitch again at appropriate distance from upper folded edge. If desired, add narrow binding to upper edge, opposite. Gather pole cover onto rod between two curtain panels

{Credit}
Singer Sewing for the Home
Copyright 1984-1988

How to Sew a Casing with a Heading

1) Determine casing depth by loosely pinning a curtain fabric strip around the rod. Remove rod and measure the distance from the top of the strip to the pin. Add 1/2″ (1.3 cm) to be turned under.

2) Press under 1/2″ (1.3 cm) along upper cut edge of curtain panel. Fold over again and press to form a hem equal to amount measured in step 1.

3) Stitch close to folded hem edge to form casing, backstitching at both ends. If desired, stitch again close to the upper edge to create a sharp crease appropriate for flat or oval curtain rods.

How to Sew a Casing with a Heading

1) Determine the depth of the casing as directed in step 1, above.
Determine the depth of heading, opposite. Press under 1/2″ (1.3 cm) along upper cut edge of the curtain panel. Fold and press again to form hem equal to casing plus heading depth.

2) Stitch close to folded edge, backstitching at both ends. Mark heading depth with a pin  at each end of panel. Stitch again at marked depth. To aid straight stitching, apply a strip of masking tape to the bed of the machine at heading depth, or use seam guide.

3) Insert rod through casing and gather curtain evenly onto rod. Adjust heading by pulling up the folded edge so the seam is exactly on the lower edge of the rod. A wide heading may be made to look puffy and more rounded by pulling the fabric out on each side.

{Credit}
Singer Sewing for the Home
Copyright 1984-1988

Before measuring windows, select the style of curtain, drapery or shade you will make. The style of window treatment determines what installation hardware is necessary. Next, decide exactly where the window treatment will be placed; install the hardware and measure this area for the finished size of the curtain, shade or drapery.

Curtain rods may be attached to the window frame, within or at the sides of the frame, on the wall above the frame, or at the ceiling. Mounting boards are necessary for hanging Roman shades and other shades based on the Roman shade construction. These 1″x 2″ (2.5 x 5 cm) boards are cut to the width of the shade, stapled or tacked to the shade’s upper edge, then installed at the window. An inside mounted shade fits firmly inside the top of the window frame. An inside mounted shade is installed on the wall above the frame. A hybrid mounted shade is a combination mount. The mounting board is placed inside the window, but the shade extends over part of the window frame.

Roller shades are installed inside or on the window frame, or on the wall above.
Follow these guidelines for accurate measuring:

1) Use a folding ruler or metal tape for measuring;
cloth tapes may stretch or sag.

2) Measure and record the measurements for all windows separately even if they appear to be the same size. Size differences, even if slight, should be taken into account when constructing window treatments.

3) When measuring for a shade that fits inside the window, measure the window width at the top, center and bottom to determine if it is true and square.

4) When measuring for curtains on a window without an apron, measure to at least 4″ (10 cm) below the sill.

Window Measurements for Curtains, Shades and Draperies

Estimating Yardage
Because fabric widths vary, yardage cannot be figured until the fabric has been selected. After
you have taken the necessary measurements and determined the finished size of the curtain, shade or drapery, you must add to the length and width for seams, hems, headings and fullness. This is the cut length. Use the cut length to estimate the amount of fabric you will need. For curtains and draperies, use the amounts as listed below and transfer the correct amount to the chart (right). For shade yardage, see individual instructions for each type of shade.

Determining Length
To the finished length, add the amount needed for lower hems, casings, headings and pattern repeat. Lower hems. Add double the desired hem to the finished length. For medium weight fabrics, use a 4″ (10 cm) double-fold hem on floor-length curtains or draperies; add 8″ (20.5 cm) to the length. Or on short curtains or valances, use a I” to 3″ (2.5 to 7.5 cm) double-fold hem; add 2″ to 6″ (5 to 15 cm) to the length. For sheer and lightweight fabrics, a deeper double-fold hem of 5″ to 6″ (12.5 to 15 cm) may be used; add 10″ to 12″ (25.5 to 30.5 cm) to the length.

Casings and headings: For simple casings with no heading, add an amount equal to the diameter of
the rod plus V2″ (1.3 cm) to turn under and 1/4″ to I” (6 mm to 2.5 cm) ease. The amount of ease depends on the size of the rod and thickness of the fabric. Lightweight fabrics require less ease; casings for large rods require more. For casings with headings, use the formula for a simple casing, adding to it an amount twice the depth of the heading.

Pattern repeat: Fabrics with patterns (motifs) need to be matched. Measure the distance between motifs and add that amount to the length of each panel.

Determining Width
To the finished width, add the amount needed for seams, side hems and fullness. Seams. For multi-width panels, add I” (2.5 cm) for each seam. Panels that is not wider than the fabric
do not require an extra amount for seams. Side hems. Add 4″ (10 cm) per panel for a I”
(2.5 cm) double-fold hem on each side of the panel.

Fullness: Fabric weight determines fullness. For medium to heavyweight fabrics, add two to two and one-half times the finished width of the curtain. For sheer and lightweight fabrics, add two and one-half to three times the finished width.

Size: 28 by 52 inches

Materials: Lily Glo- Tone, cream (7 balls); steel crochet hook, size #7 (or whatever size needed for gauge); extra heavy starch; cardboard fabric cutting board; rustproof pins.

Gauge: 3 blocks = 1 inch, 3 rows = 1 inch.

Note: To make the length or width of the curtain larger or smaller, increase or decrease the number of spaces in multiples of seven so the edging matches the change.
Instructions:

Row 1: ch 241; dc in 9th ch from hk; *ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch; rpt from * across row; ch 5, turn. (Note: ch 5 counts as 1st dc, ch 2 in next row) (80 spaces)
Rows 2 – 30: dc in next dc; *ch 2, dc in next dc; rpt from * across row; ch 5, turn.
Rows 31 - 153: Refer to charted graph; (ch 5, turn at end of each row.) See page 12.
Row 154: *dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc; rpt from * across row; ch 1, turn.

Diamond Pattern:
For detail of diamond pattern inside pineapple, see Figure 3.
Row 1: dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc.
Row 2: dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc; ch 9, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc.
Row 3: dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc; (ch 5, sc in ctr of ch 9 sp, ch 5); sk 3 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc.
Row 4: dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc; (ch 6, sc in ch 5 sp, sc in sc, sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 6); sk 3 dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc.
Row 5: sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc, 3 dc in ch 6 sp; (ch 6, sc in 2nd sc, ch 6); 3 dc in ch 6 sp, dc in next dc.
Row 6: sk next 2 dc, dc in next dc, (3 dc in ch 6 sp, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch 6 sp), dc in next dc.
Row 7: dc in next dc, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, dc in next dc.

Edging:
See Figure 4 for detail of top and side edging.
Row 1: turn work a 1/4 turn; work 3 sc in each dc on sides, 3 sc in each corner st, and 1 sc in each st along bottom and top; join in 1st sc. See Figure 4 for close up of edging.
Row 2: ch 5, leaving last Ip on hk, work 2 dtr in joining st, YO, draw through all Ips on hk (beg 3 dtr cl made); *sk 6 sc, in next sc work a 3 dtr cl, (3 dtrcl = leaving last Ip on h’k, work 3 dtr in same sc, YO, draw through all Ips on hk.) ch 9, 3 dtr cl in next sc; rpt from * around both sides and bottom; along top only work 1 hdc in each sc; ch 1, turn.
Row 3: work 11 sc in each ch 9 sp around sides and bottom; at top, work 1 hdc in each hdc across row; join to 1 st sc; fasten off. Weave in ends.

To Stiffen: Saturate with starch and squeeze out excess. Pin to cutting board and allow to dry.

Ruffled curtains add a charming, warm touch to any room of the house, and the weight of ruffles helps curtains hang better. The ruffle on a curtain usually extends along one side and across the bottom. In the directions that follow the curtain is hemmed after the ruffle is attached, and the ruffle extends into the casing and heading. A coordinated shirred valance may be added for a decorative touch. Ruffle fullness depends on fabric weight and ruffle width. Sheer fabrics usually need triple fullness; crisper fabrics need only two or two and one-half times fullness. Wide ruffles should be fuller than narrow ruffles. You will usually need to purchase less additional fabric when ruffles are cut on the crosswise grain. If ruffles are cut on the selvage, use the selvage edge in the seam. Hem the edge of the ruffle before gathering.
Single ruffles are one layer of gathered fabric with a hemmed edge. Narrow ruffles should have a hem no wider than 1/4″ (6 mm). Double ruffles require a double width of fabric which is folded in half, wrong sides together.
The folded edge eliminates the need for a hem. Because of the extra bulk created by two layers, it is best to make double ruffles from lightweight fabrics. The zigzag stitch, the ruffler and the narrow hemmer can speed up the task of making ruffles. Begin by cutting the fabric the appropriate width for a single or double ruffle. Then seam sections together at the short ends to make a continuous length, using plain seams for double ruffles and French seams for single ruffles. Hem one long edge of single ruffles, either by machine-stitching a double-fold 1/4″ (6 mm) hem, or by using a narrow hemmer.

Zigzag over a strong, thin cord on wrong side of  fabric to make long ruffles easier to adjust into even gathers. Use cord, crochet cotton or dental floss, placed 3/s” (1 cm) from raw edge. Use wide zigzag stitch so cord does not get caught in the stitching Use a ruffler attachment to tuck or gather as you sew. Make a test strip and adjust ruffler to desired fullness. Measure the test strip before and after stitching to determine length of fabric needed. Omit steps 1 through 3 (opposite) when using ruffler.

1) Divide curtain edge into equal segments; mark with pins. Divide ruffle strip into same number of segments. Allow extra fullness in segments to be placed at corner, so uffle will lie flat in finished curtain.
2) Pin the ruffle strip to the unhemmed edge of the curtain, right sides together; match marking pins on the ruffle strip to marking pins on the curtain edge.
3) Pull up gathering cord until ruffle is same size as edge of curtain. At lower edge, release gathers the depth of hem. At upper edge, release gathers the depth of casing and heading
4) Pin in place as necessary to distribute gathers evenly. Stitch a ‘/2″ (1.3 cm) seam, gathered side up, controlling gathers with fingers on each side of the needle.
5) Trim seam allowances and over edge using zigzag stitch, or encase seam with double-fold bias tape (b), or encase seam with lightweight bias tricot strips
6) Press seam toward curtain. Topstitch on curtain side 1/4″ (6 mm) from seam so ruffle will lie smooth and even. Stitch hem and casing. Ruffle is gathered on right side, but flat on wrong side.

French pleats, also known as pinch pleats, are made up of groups of pleats that are tied together at the bottom and produce a fan-shaped effect at the top. They are especially appropriate for floor-length curtains, and can be decorated with buttons or tassels if desired. It is possible to purchase heading tape that can be made into French pleats, but the hand-worked version is extremely attractive and the pleats are less likely to lose their shape.

1) Start by sewing both sides of your fabric then  Fold along the top line to the back side and press.
2) Open the fold and align a piece of  buckram 6 in (15 cm) longer than the width of the curtain along the marked pressed line as shown.

3) Fold in the extra buckram at each end and fold over the extra curtain fabric at the top and Press in place.
4) Fold the buckram strip so the pressed line is again at the top of the curtain and press again.
Make sure the bottom edge of the buckram is on the marked line.
5) Measure the width of the finished curtain and calculate the spacing of the pleats. Using pins, mark the pleats on the wrong side of the curtain. Try to make the spaces slightly smaller than the pleat size. my pleats are 7 in (18 cm) wide and the spaces are 5 in (13 cm).
6) Working on the wrong side, fold so the first pin meets the second and pin the pleat along the width of the buckram to secure. Fold the third pin to the fourth and pin. Repeat. Stitch each pleat from the top of the curtain to the bottom of the buckram.

7 ) Working from the right side of the curtain, flatten each pleat with the center along the seam. Using your thumb and index finger, pinch the middle into a pleat. Pinch each side up to make three equal pleats (inset).
8 ) Hold the base of each triple pleat firmly in position with stab stitch.
Pull the thread up tight and fasten each one securely. Secure the tops of the folds with slipstitch.

Note: For stronger sewing finish, use polyester thread to sew your drapes and upholstery fabric.

Fabric.com

Tab Top Curtains
Fabric tabs are an attractive alternative to conventional casings or curtain rings. Tab top curtains used with
a decorative curtain rod create a traditional country look, a contemporary tailored look or a casual cafe look. They are also ideal for stationary side panels. Tabs give top interest to a curtain, and can be made with contrasting fabric, decorative ribbon or trim.
Only one and one-half to two times the fullness is needed for tab top curtains. Allow 1/2 (1.3 cm) seam allowance at the upper edge of the curtain instead of the usual casing allowance. When determining the finished length, allow for the upper edge of the curtain to be 1 1/2” to 2″ (3.8 to 5 cm) below the rod. This determines the length of the tabs. Determine number of tabs needed by placing a tab at each edge of the curtain, and space the remaining tabs 6″ to 8″ (15 to 20.5 cm) apart.

How to Sew Tab Top Curtains
1) Cut a 3″ (7.5 cm) facing strip equal in length to the width of the curtain panel. Press under 1/2″ (1.3 cm) on one long side and each short end. Press double-fold lower and side hems of curtain. Stitch lower hem only.
2) Measure tab length by pinning a strip of fabric over the rod and marking the desired length with a pin. Add 1/2” (1.3 cm) for seam allowance. Cut tabs to measured length, and two times the desired width plus 1″ (2.5 cm).
3) Fold each tab in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam along cut edge; sew from one tab to the next, using continuous stitching (arrow). Tum tabs right side out. Center seam in back of each tab; press.

4) Fold each tab in half so raw edges are aligned. Pin or baste tabs in place on right side of curtain, aligning raw edges of tabs with upper edge of curtain. Place end tabs even with side hem fold line of curtain.
5) Pin facing to upper edge of curtain, right sides together, so raw edges are aligned and tabs are sandwiched between facing and curtain. Stitch 1/2′ (1.3 cm) seam, with curtain side hems extended.
6) Press facing to wrong side of curtain so tabs extend upward. Fold curtain side hems under facing, covering seam allowance; grade. Stitch side hems. Slips titch facing to curtain. Insert curtain rod through tabs.