AMERICAN THREAD COMPANY "STAR" BLEND YARN, Article 75
3 skeins Gray and
"STAR" RAYON CROCHET, Article 700 2 balls Buttercup
4 metal tips (optional)
Steel crochet hooks No.0 and No.1

BOTTOM: With Gray and
No.0 hook ch 32, sc in 2nd st from hook, I sc in each remaining st of ch, ch I, turn.
2nd Row-1 sc in each sc, ch    1, turn. Repeat the last row
29 times.
Next Row-UPPER SECTION: 3
sc in 1st sc (corner),1 sc in each of the next 29    sc, 3    sc in next
sc (corner), working along side of bottom, work 1    sc over side of each
of the next 29    rows,3 sc in last row (corner),    1 sc in each of the next 29 sts, 3 sc in last st (corner), I sc over side of the next     29 rows. Do not join or turn this or following rounds.
Next  9 Rounds-] sc in each sc, join last round, drop Gray.
When "STAR" RAYON CROCHET is used work with a double strand of thread and No.1    hook.
11th Round-Attach Buttercup in joining, ch4, tr c in sc before ch    4,` skip1sc, tr c in next sc, tr c in sc just skipped, repeat from* all around, join, drop Buttercup.
12th Round-With Gray work 1    sc in each trc.
13th Round-1    sc in each sc, join, drop Gray.
14th Round-Pick up Buttercup and work 2 sc in each sc,
join, drop Buttercup.
1 5th Round-With Gray, sc in joining, * skip 1    sc, sc in next sc, repeat from    * all around, join in    1 st sc, drop Gray.
16th Round-With Buttercup work in same manner as 11th
round.
17th Round-With Gray work same as 12th round, drop
Gray. 18th Round-Work same as 14th round.
19th Round-Same as 15th round.
20th Round-Same as 13th round.
21st Round-Same as 11th round, cut Buttercup.
22nd Round-Same as 12th round, do not join or turn this
or this or following rounds. Work 17 more rounds in sc or until
upper section measures    8 inches from beginning.
Next Round-Ch 4, tr c in next sc,* ch 2, skip    2 sc, I tr c in each of the next    2 sc, repeat from * all around,
ending round with ch 2, join in 4th st of ch (beading).
Next Round-* In next ch 2 mesh, work I sc, 3 dc, I sc, repeat from * all around, join in I st sc, drop Gray.
Next Round-Attach Buttercup and work 2 sc in each st, drop Buttercup.
Next Round-Pick up Gray and work same as 15th round. Next Round Pick up Buttercup, * 2 sc in next sc, 2 s dc
in next sc (s : thread over hook, insert in st, pull loop
through, thread over and work off all loops at one time),
3 dc in next sc,2 sdc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc,
repeat from *all around, join in 1 st sc, cut thread.
HANDLE: With double strands of Gray, crochet 2 chains
about 1yd. long. Lace 1 chain through beading. Lace other
chain starting at opposite side. Finish with metal tips if
desired or sew ends together. Make a cardboard box to fit
bottom of bag, having the sides about 41/2 inches in height.

Pattern by Marina Walden-Walnut Baby

Materials Pattons baby wool 2 ply ( or other suitable 2 ply) 1.75 mm hook

Tension 8 DC x 3 rows = 2cm Stitches & Abbreviations Adjustable ring tutorial  This pattern uses US stitch notationBeg    Beginning Cont    Continue SL    Slip Stitch ST    Stitch CH    Chain SC    Single Crochet HDC    Half Double Crochet DC    Double Crochet HTR    Half Treble Crochet TR    Treble Crochet DTR    Double Treble Crochet Inc    Increase Dec    Decrease TRxTOG    Treble x number of stitches together US – UK Stitch Conversion SC     =     DC HDC    =    HTR DC    =    TR Bootie (make 2) CH18Bootie sole Build up the sole of the bootie by working around the starting chain and increasing at the ends, making an oval shape.Row1. Working into the back loop on the chain; 3 DC in second CH from hook, DC into next 15 CH, 8 DC into next CH, Then working back along the other side of the chain DC into next 15 CH 4 DC into the starting CH , SS into starting DC (45 ST) Row2. CH3, DC into same SC as chain (counts as 2 DC) 2DC, 1DC DC into next 18 DC 2DC, 1DC, 2DC, 2DC DC into next 18 DC 2DC, 1DC, 2DC, join together with SS into 3rd of the starting chains (52 ST) Row3.CH3, 2DC into next 2DC 1DC into next 22DC 2DC, 1DC, 1DC, 2DC 1DC into next 22DC 2DC, 1DC, SS into 3rd of the starting chains (57 ST)Row4.CH3, [2DC, 1SC] twice, 2DC into next DC 1DC into next 21DC, [2DC, 1DC] 3 times, 2DC into next DC, 1DC into next 21DC, 2DC, 1DC, 2DC, SS into 3rd of starting chains (66 ST) Row5 CH1, SC in each DC of previous round join with SSRow6 using back loops only from the previous row, CH3, DC into each SC, Join with SS Row7 –10 CH3, DC into each DC of previous row, Join with SS Fasten off.

Toe & Top The toe and top are made by gradually gathering together the stitches. Find the front mid point on the bootie – I do this by folding the bootie in half to find the central stitch. Row1 join the yarn into the 14th DC to the right of the central stitch Ch 4, TR4TOG (see stitches notes) [TR6TOG] 3 times TR5TOG (worked 28 sts) DC in next 42 DC, SS to beginning CH (38ST) Row2 CH5, TR5TOG (joining the previous cluster stitches), CH 6 DC in next 42 DC, SS into beginning CH Row3 CH1 SC in 5CH SC in centre of cluster SC in 5CH SC in next 38 DC, SS into first CHRow4 CH4 TR in each SC, SS into first CH Row5-7 CH1 SC in each ST, SS into first CH Row8-9 CH3 [1DC, 2DC] repeat to end, SS into first CH Fasten off Tie (make 2)CH150 (or longer if desired) Row1 SS into back loop of each CH Fasten off Sew in all loose ends Thread the Tie through Row 4 of bootie top Make up Sew in all loose ends Thread the Tie through Row 4 of bootie top & fasten in a bow.

Pattern by Marina Walden-Walnut Baby

Materials:
 RED HEART® “Eco-Ways®” 3 skeins each, 1615 Lichen A, 3314 Chamois B, 3523 Asparagus C and 3360 Mushroom D.
 Crochet Hook: 5.5mm [US I-9]. Yarn needle.
GAUGE: Rounds 1-3 = 4" in diameter.
CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the specified gauge.
Stripe Sequence Work 1 round with A, 2 rounds with B, 3 rounds with C, 2 rounds with A, 3 rounds with D, 2 rounds with B, 3 rounds with C, 3 rounds with D, 1 round with A, 2 rounds with D, 4 rounds with B, 2 rounds with D, 4 rounds with C, 2 rounds with A, 1 round with B, 2 rounds with D, 3 rounds with C, 3 rounds with A, 2 rounds with B, 1 round with D and 1 round with A. Work these 47 rounds for Stripe Sequence.
AFGHAN With A, ch 4, slip st in first st to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), [dc in ring, ch 1] 11 times, slip st in 3rd ch of beginning ch to join. Fasten off.

Round 2: Join B in any ch-space, ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 2 dc in same ch-space, [3 dc] in each ch-space around, slip st in top of beginning ch to join.
Round 3: Ch 1, *sc in first dc of dc-group, ch 3, skip next dc, sc in next dc, Fptr around dc 2 rows below; repeat from * around, slip st in first sc to join. Fasten off.
Follow Stripe Sequence to change colors. If joining new color, join in indicated st. If continuing with same color, slip st to indicated st.
Round 4: In ch-space, ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 3 dc in same ch-space, [4 dc] in each ch-space around, slip st in top of beginning ch to join.
Round 5: In first dc of dc-group, ch 1, *sc in first dc, ch 4, skip 2 dc, sc in next dc, Fptr around Fptr 2 rows below; repeat from * around, slip st in first sc to join.
Round 6: In ch-space, ch 3, 4 dc in same ch-space, [5 dc] in each ch-space around, slip st in top of beginning ch to join.
Round 7: In first dc of dc-group, ch 1, *sc in first sc, ch 5, skip 3 dc, sc in next dc, Fptr around Fptr 2 rows below; repeat from * around, slip st in first sc to join.
Round 8: In ch-space, ch 3, 5 dc in same ch-space, [6 dc] in each ch-space around, slip st in top of beginning ch to join.
Round 9: In first dc of dc-group, ch 1, *sc in first dc, ch 6, skip 4 dc, sc in next dc, Fptr around Fptr 2 rows below; repeat from *, slip st in first sc to join.
Round 10: In ch-space, ch 3, 6 dc in same ch-space, [7 dc] in each ch-space around, slip st in top of beginning ch to join.
Round 11: In first dc of dc-group, ch 1, *sc in first dc, ch 1, skip next dc, sc in next dc, Fpdc around center dc of dc-group 2 rows below, sc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc, sc in next dc, Fptr around Fptr 2 rows below; repeat from * around, slip st in first sc to join.
Round 12: In ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-space, [3 dc] in each ch-space around, slip st in top of ch-3 to join.
Round 13: In first dc of dc-group, ch 1, *sc in first dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc, sc in next dc, Fptr around Fptr 2 rows below, repeat from * around, slip st in first sc to join. Keeping in Stripe Sequence, repeat Rounds 4-13 for 3 more times. Repeat Rounds 12-13 once. Repeat Rounds 4-5 once.
Fasten off.
FINISHING Weave in ends.

Scarf measures 4" x 46", or desired length.
Materials:
 RED HEART® “Spark-a-Doodle™”: 1 Ball each 9901 Reddy A and 9001 White Cloud B.
 Knitting Needles: 5.5mm [US 9].
 Yarn needle.
GAUGE: Gauge is not important for this project.

Special Abbreviation
KFB = K into front and back of next st.
NOTES
 For color changes, do not cut yarn; instead, carry unused yarn along edge of scarf.
 When working with Spark-a-Doodle™, work sts with yarn between pompoms. Do not pull pompoms through sts.
SCARF
With A, make a slip knot.
Row 1: KFB – 2 sts.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12: K across.
Row 3: KFB, K to end – 3 sts.
Rows 5, 7, 9, 11, 13: Repeat Row 3 – 8 sts.
Rows 14-15: With B, K across.
Rows 16-17: With A, K across.
Repeat Rows 14-17 until Scarf is 42” long, or desired length.
Next Row: With A, K2tog, K to end – 7 sts.
Next Row: K across.
Repeat last 2 rows until 1 st remains on needle. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Runner measures 57" long x 14" wide.
Materials:
 RED HEART® “Holiday”: 2 skeins 1360 Aran with Gold.
 Crochet Hook: 5.5mm US [I-9].
 Yarn needle.
Gauge: Snowflake measures 5½” x 5½” measured point to point. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.
CENTER STRIP
First Snowflake
Ch 4, join with slip st to form a ring.

Round 1 (right side): Ch 5 (counts as hdc, ch 3), [hdc,ch 3] 5 times in ring; join with slip st in 2nd ch of beginning ch-5—6 ch-3 spaces.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as joining, (2 sc, ch 5, 2 sc) in next ch-3 space, *sc in next hdc, (2 sc, ch 5, 2 sc) in next ch-3 space; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—6 ch-5 spaces.
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 3, [sc, ch 5, sc, ch 7 (point), sc, ch 5, sc] in 3rd ch of next ch-5 space, ch 3, skip next 2 sc**, sc in next sc; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **, join with slip st in first sc—6 ch-7 points. Fasten off.

Second Snowflake (2 points joined)
Rounds 1-2: Repeat rounds 1-2 of first snowflake.
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 3, (sc, ch 5, sc, ch 3) in 3rd ch of next ch-5 space, with wrong sides together, slip st in corresponding ch-7 point on previous snowflake, ch 3, (sc, ch 5, sc) in same ch of ch-5 space on current snowflake, ch 3, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, repeat * once; **ch 3, (sc, ch 5, sc, ch 7, sc, ch 5, sc) in 3rd ch of next ch-5 space, ch 3, skip next 2 sc***, sc in next sc; repeat from ** around, ending last repeat at ***, join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off.

Third through Twelfth Snowflake
Work 10 more snowflakes same as second snowflake, joining in a strip, skipping 1 point on each side of snowflakes.

FIRST SIDE STRIP
First Snowflake (3 points joined)
Rounds 1-2: Repeat rounds 1-2 of first snowflake.
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 3, (sc, ch 5, sc, ch 3) in 3rd ch of next ch-5 space, with wrong sides together, slip st in first ch-7 space on top snowflake on center strip to the right of joining, ch 3, (sc, ch 5, sc) in same ch of ch-5 space on current snowflake, ch 3, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, repeat * twice, joining with slip st to junction between 2 snowflakes, then joining to next ch-7 point; **ch 3, (sc, ch 5, sc, ch 7, sc, ch 5, sc) in 3rd ch of next ch-5 space, ch 3, skip next 2 sc***, sc in next sc; repeat from ** around, ending last repeat at ***, join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off.

Second Snowflake (4 points joined)
Rounds 1-2: Repeat rounds 1-2 of first snowflake.
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 3, (sc, ch 5, sc, ch 3) in 3rd ch of next ch-5 space, with wrong sides together, slip st in corresponding ch-7 space on previous snowflake on same strip, ch 3, (sc, ch 5, sc) in same ch of ch-5 space on current snowflake, ch 3, skip next 2 sc, sc in next sc, repeat * 3 times, joining with slip st to next 2 junctions between 2 snowflakes, then joining to next ch-7 point; **ch 3, (sc, ch 5, sc,ch 7, sc, ch 5, sc) in 3rd ch of next ch-5 space, ch 3, skip next 2 sc***, sc in next sc; repeat from ** around, ending last repeat at ***, join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off.

Third through Eleventh Snowflake
Work 9 more snowflakes same as second snowflake, joining in a strip across side of center strip, following assembly diagram for placement.

SECOND SIDE STRIP
Make and join 11 more snowflakes joining to center strip same as first side strip, following assembly diagram for placement.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.

Start at letter A with 8 open ms., continue following diagram until letter B is reached, then to letter C, continue to letter D, now to letter E, then to letter F. Start at letter G and work to letter H. Start at letter C and work to letter J. Now start at front for other half of yoke. When filet is completed work all around 3 s.c in one m., 2 s.c. in next m.

BEADING
Sk. 3 s.c., cotton ever needle three times, insert hook in next st. Work off two loops and keep remaining for hooks on needle. Cotton over, insert hook in next st., work off two loops, cotton over needle, again insert hook in next st, cotton over, work off three loops, cotton over, work off two loops, cotton over through two loops, cotton over through last two loops, ch. 4, 1 d.c. in center st., where first three loops are worked off together. NEXT ROW: 3 s.c. in first space, 1 p., 3 s.c. in next space, 1 d.c. around ch ( between d.cs. 1 p., 1 d.c., 1 p., 1 d.c., 1 p., 1 d.c., all worked around same chs. , Work same beading for neck and sleeves, also bottom of yoke. Trim with ribbon as shown in cut.

1ST ROW: 1 sc over picot, 5 ch, 1 sc over next picot. Repeat until 6 picots have been made. Then ch 1, pass to the edge of next medallion and proceed as before.
2D ROW: Work on the 4 middle picots of the 6, skipping the 2 side ones. 1 sc over picot, 5 ch, 1 sc over next picot, etc., until 3 picots have been made. Then ch 3, and pass to 1st of 4 picots of next medallion, making 3 more picots, etc.
3D ROW: Of the 3 picots first made in 2d row, work 1 sc over the middle 1. * Ch 3, 1 dc over next picot (last of 3). Ch 3, 1 treble crochet in middle stitch of ch of 3. Ch 3, 1 tr c in same stitch. Ch 3, 1 dc over 1st picot of next group of 3. Ch 3, 1 sc over middle picot. Repeat from * to end.
4TH ROW: 1 dc in every stitch of 3d row. Turn the work and finish lower part of heading from opposite direction, fastening thread as before.
 
1ST ROW: Make 6 picots on every medallion, ch 1, make 6 picots on next medallion, etc.
2D ROW: Make 5 picots on every medallion, ch 3, pass to next medallion, etc. The fringe is to be knotted into these 5 picots on each medallion and into the chain of 3 between every 2 medallions. For 1 tassel, take 6 strands of silk 6 inches long (or longer if desired), pass the bunch through and double it. Tie one small knot with the 2 ends, and one larger knot with the whole bunch. Clip the ends of the tassels even.

If she cares to carry her experiments further, she may have as a result cream-white fringe suitable for infants' cloaks and coats; or black and colored, adapted to the decoration of silk or woolen costumes. Although the process of fringe making may be considered tedious by some, when once done, the trimming lasts for years. Several simple effective ways of making fringe will occur to any lady at all ingenious with crochet hook and needle. What she particularly wants, just here, if she wants anything, is a few hints as to starting.

The fringe proper is knotted into the heading after the latter is finished. There are various styles of knotting, which may be copied from ready-made fringes. In a really good fringe, although the heading may be executed by machinery, the knotting is done by hand. This is why a good fringe is an expensive article in the first place, although it may prove cheap in the end by lasting much longer than common varieties. For an artistic handmade fringe, the heading may be crochet work, macrame or mignardise of the style popularly known as "hairpin" work, while tatting or pointlace stitches may be introduced to help out the design.

This last may be as elaborate as one pleases, but a simple pattern will furnish quite as much work as the average woman would care to under-take, and it may be made quite as effective.

Fringe with Crocheted Heading

The following pattern will be found excellent for practice. Make a chain of 17 stitches.
1ST ROW: Turn, skip 9 stitches, work 8 double crochet stitches in the next 8 of the chain.
2D ROW: Ch 3, 1 dc in 2d dc of preceding row, taking the back of the loop. * Ch 1, skip 1 dc of preceding row, work 1 dc in next dc. Repeat from * twice, or until 4 dc in all have been made.
3D ROW: Ch 9, work 8 dc in stitches of preceding row. Repeat 2d and 3d rows, until a strip as long as desired has been made. To make heading of heading, begin at the end last made, and work lengthwise. Fasten thread to last dc of 8 dc last made. Chain 5 to start with.

1ST ROW: 1 dc in same stitch as base of dc last made. Ch 3, 'skip open-work row, 1 dc in top stitch of next dc (in solid row, along upper edge, of course). Ch 3, 1 dc at base of same dc, etc. Repeat, working 1 dc on the line between solid and open rows, all along to end.
2D ROW: Fasten thread anew, and work in same direction as before, 1 single crochet in every stitch of preceding row.
3D ROW: Between every 2 dc of 1st row, work 3 dc in 3 sc. Over every dc of 1st row, make 1 picot formed by chaining 5. Skip the 1 sc under every picot and over every dc below it. Of course the thread should be fastened anew, and the work proceed in the same direction as the 2 preceding rows. On the lower edge of the complete heading hangs a row of loops, each loop composed of a chain of 9. In these loops the fringe is to be knotted. For each tassel, take six (6) strands of silk, each about 6 inches long. Pass the whole bunch through 1 loop and double evenly.
Tie the 2 ends together tightly, with 2 knots close to the loop. Then take the whole 12 ends at once and make 1 large knot, as close as possible to the smaller ones just made. When all the tassels are finished, clip the ends evenly.