Here comes Santa Claus and his merry rider just in time to deliver Christmas cheer. Accented with lots of shiny tree trims, this jolly design can be displayed as a wall hanging or as a decoration for your front door.

Size: 131/2″w x 17%”h Supplies: Worsted weight yarn (refer to color key), two 101/2″ X 131/2″ sheets of 7 mesh plastic canvas, #16 tapestry needle, metallic silver ribbon , 28 – 6mm beads, one 5/8″ w star sequin, sewing needle, thread, sawtooth hanger, and clear-drying craft glue Stitches Used: Backstitch, French Knot, Gobelin Stitch, Overcast Stitch, Tent Stitch, and Turkey Loop
Instructions: Follow charts and use required stitches to work Santa pieces, leaving shaded areas unworked. Match and work~stitches in shaded areas through two thicknesses to join Upper Santa to Lower Santa. Refer to photo to sew beads to tree. Match to glue star sequin to top of tree. For hanger, sew sawtooth hanger to wrong side of stitched piece.

Designed by: Jack Peatman for LuvLee

MATERIALS:
HIAWATHA Super Corde Art. 38, 2 tubes
for Bag, I tube for Hat
HIAWATHA Metallic Corde Art.64, 2
tubes for Bag, 1tube for Hat HIAWATHA Square Wooden Beads, 5 strings dark and5 strings light for Bag,2    strings dark and 2
strings light for Hat HIAWATHA Rectangular Box Bag Lining
No. 6671
HIAWATHA Hat Frame No. 6727
Steel crochet hook No. 1
GAUGE-6 sc = 1..

BAG
BOTTOM-With corde ch 22 to measure 31/2″. RND 1-3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 19 ch, 5 sc in end ch, continuing around work sc in each st along other side of starting chain, ending with 2 sc in same place as 1st 3 sc (48 sts). RND 2-Sc in next st, 3    sc in next St-CORNER-SC in each st
to 5 sts at other end, (sc in next st, 3sc in next st) twice; sc in each st to last 2 sts,3 sc in last st (4 corners). Insert marker in 1st corner. RND 3-* Sc to next corner, 3 sc in center st of corner. Repeat from * around. Work 3 sc in center st of each corner every rnd until there are 136 sts and piece measures    3 3/4″ x63/4 “, ending 1st before 1st corner. Sl st in corner.
SIDES-Through back loops only, sc in each st. Sl st in next st. Turn. Drop Corde. Slip 2 strings of dark beads on 1tube of metallic thread, slip 2 strings of light beads on other tube.

spectator-sports-pdf-document

CLICK THE LINK ABOVE TO DOWNLOAD FULL INSTRUCTION -PDF DOCUMENT

Right-angle weave,
Linda L. Jones designed her cuff (above) with a side edging of teardrop beads, which adds movement and a bit of width. The other cuff has a more symmetrical look (right). Embellished, modified rightangle-weave units create an open base that is filled in with ladder-stitch sections
Designed by Linda L. Jones

MATERIALS
bracelet 71/2 in. (19.1 cm)
10 6 x 9 mm teardrop beads
Czech fire-polished beads 966 mm
1204 mm
24 3 mm Czech fire-polished beads or round silver beads
5 g size 11 Q seed beads in each of 2 colors: A, B
multistrand slide clasp (Rio Grande, riogrande.com)
size D nylon beading thread to match bead color
beading needles, #12

This dramatic cuff bracelet looks complicated, but it’s only a few simple stitches combined one layer at a time. Due to the nature of each technique, the thread can show in some places, so it is important to use thread that closely matches the color of your beads. Although this lends itself to a more monochromatic color scheme, you can use more than one color of thread if you want more contrast.

stepbystep
After completing the base of right-angle weave units, you will add four rows of square stitch and a clasp to each end. This will add about 11!z in. (3.8 cm) to the length. Keep this in mind if you are using a different type of clasp.
Base
[1] On 3 yd. (2.7 m) of thread, pick up an alternating pattern of a 6 mm fire-polished bead, and three color A 11 Q seed beads. Repeat three times (figure 1, a-b).
[2] Leaving an 18-in. (46 cm) tail, sew through the 6 mms again, skipping the As (b-c). The As should form points. If they don’t, use your needle to coax them into position as you gently pull the
thread to snug up the As. Sew through the next 6 mm and two As (c-d).
[3] Begin a 4 mm fire-polished-bead unit by picking up an A, a 4 mm, three As, a 4 mm, three As, a 4 mm, three As, a 4 mm, and an A. Sew back through the A your thread exited in step 2 and the first A added in this step (figure 2, a-b).
[4] Sew through the 4 mms again, skip¬ping the As (b-c). Sew through the next 4 mm and two As (c-d).
[5] Continue working in modified right-angle weave, adding one more 6 and 4 mm unit (figure 3, a-b).
[6] Flip your beadwork and work another row of alternating 6 and
4 mm units as shown (figure 4, a-b).
[7] Continue adding rows of alter¬nating units until you have 11 rows
or you reach the desired base length.
[8] Exit the center A on the end unit of one of the vertical rows (figure 5, point a). Pick up eight As and sew through the center A at the end of the next end unit (a-b). Repeat two times (b-c).
[9] Work a square stitch (Basics, p. 106) off the previous row using an A (c-d). Continue back across the row working in square stitch and using As until you reach the other end (d-e).
[10] Sew through the beadwork to exit

point f. Work 20 square stitches off the previous row using As (f-g).
[11] Using As, work the last row in square stitch, incorporating the clasp into the beadwork by sewing through each loop on the clasp as you get to it instead of adding an A (photo). Sew back through the last row, secure the working thread in the beadwork with a few half-hitch knots (Basics), and trim. [12] Repeat steps 8-11 with the tail.
Embellishments Center embellishments
[1] Secure a new thread (Basics) in the beadwork and exit figure 6, point a. Pick up a 3 mm bead. Sew through the opposite 4 mm, the next three As, and the 6 mm in the next unit in the vertical
row (a-b).
[2] Pick up a 4 mm and sew through the opposite 6 mm, the next three As, and the 4 mm in the next unit in the vertical row (b-c). Continue adding 3 and 4 mm beads to the centers of the 4 and 6 mm units until you reach the end of the first vertical row. After adding the center embellishment to the last unit, sew through the beadwork to exit point d. Ladder-stitch sections
[1] Work four ladder stitches (Basics) using two B 11 Q seed beads per stitch as shown (d-e). Connect the ladder section to the next 4 mm unit in the previous vertical row by sewing through the
4 mm and the last two Bs in the ladder twice (e-f). Weave back through the ladder to reinforce it (f-g).
[2] Sew through the next two 4 mms (g-h), pick up a 3 mm, sew through the opposite 4 mm, and continue through the next two 4 mms (h-i).
[3] Work a ladder stitch section as in step 1, and connect it to the next 4 mm unit in the next vertical row (i-j). Sew through the next three As and 6 mm in the next unit in the same row G-k).
[4] Add embellishments to the center of each 4 and 6 mm unit, and ladder stitch sections to all the internal 4 mm unit beads.
[5] Secure the tails in the beadwork and trim.
Teardrops
[1] Secure a new thread in the bead¬work and exit along one edge of the bracelet (figure 7, point a).
[2] Pick up an A, a teardrop bead, and an A. Skip the center A and sew through the next A (a-b). Sew through a 4 mm, three As, a 4 mm, and the next A (b-c).
[3] Pick up an A, a teardrop bead, and an A. Skip the center A and sew through the next A, 6 mm, three As, 6 mm, and the next A (c-d).
[4] Continue adding teardrops between the edge units until you reach the other end. Secure the tails in the beadwork and trim.

Contact Linda at (902) 477-1379, thatjoneswoman@gmail. com, or visit her Web site,
bornunderabeadsign. blogspot.com.

by Nealay Patel

materials
• 5g seed beads, size 110, hex cut
main color (MC)
• 1g seed beads, size 110, (MC)
• 1g seed beads, size 110, accent color (AC)
• 1g seed beads, size 60, (AC)
• Nymo D, conditioned with Thread Heaven,
color to match beads
• 2 3-hole spacer bars
• 2 bead tips
• 2 soldered jump rings
• 3-in. (76mm) small link chain
• 6mm heart or crystal
• S-hook or lobster claw clasp
• 3mm crystal
• head pin
• tape
Tools: chainnose pliers, wire cutters

stepbystep
Make this simple but lovely necklace with three medallions joined by seed bead strands. The beaded
portion of the necklace measures 12 in. (.3m). The clasp and chain add another 31⁄2 in. (89mm) to the
finished length.
medallions

• 1) Start with 24 in. (.6m) of conditioned Nymo and leave a5-in. (.13m) tail. String a main color (MC) 110 seed bead, a 60 seed, 2MC, an accent color (AC)110, 2MC, and a 60. Sew through the first bead strung in the opposite direction as before (photo a).  2) String 1MC, a 60, 2MC, 1AC, and 2MC. Go through the last 60 strung in step 1 (photo b). Then go through the first MC strung in this step (photo c). Repeat three more times for a total of five loops (photo d).

• 3) Sew through the first AC and 60 strung in step 1. String 2MC, an AC, and 2MC. Go through the last 60 and MC strung in step 2 (photo e) to create the top of the sixth loop. Tie the tail and working thread in a surgeon’s knot (see “Basics”). Weave it through several beads, tie a half-hitch knot (see “Basics”), dot  it with glue, and then trim the tail close to the beads.

• 4) Go back through the first MC and 60 strung in step 1 (photo f). Moving clockwise, continue through 2MC andthe AC at the top of the loop.

• 5) String 2MC, a 60, and 2MC. Go through the AC at the top of the next loop (photo g). Repeat five times. Sew through the first AC exited in step 4 to complete the medallion. Weave the tail through several beads and tie a half hitch. Glue the knot, but do not cut off the thread.

• 6) Repeat steps 1-5 to make two more of the medallions. outer strands To string the necklace, use hex-cut 110 seed beads.

• 1) String an AC to the middle of 1 yd. (.9m) of conditioned thread. Go through it again in the same direction to make a stop bead (which will be removed later). Starting at figure 1, point a sew through the top right 60 of a medallion. Pull the thread through the 60 until the stop bead rests against it. String five hex-cut seeds and an AC, twice. Then string five hex.

• 2) Sew through a 60 on the edge of another medallion. Then go through two hex, an AC, and two hex (figure 1, b-c).

• 3) Go through the next 60. String ten hex and an AC (figure 2, a-b). Repeat this sequence seven times. To make a longer necklace, string more sets of beads. Be sure to add the same number of beads to all strands on both sides of the necklace.

• 4) Go through the top hole on one of the three-hole spacer bars. String six hex, a bead tip with the hook facing out, and a hex (photo h). Wrap the thread with tape to hold it temporarily.

5) To string the bottom strand, start at figure 3, a and repeat steps 1-4, but go through the bottom hole of the spacer.
6) To make the other side, remove the stop bead from the top strand. Attach a needle and weave to the top left 60 (figure
4, a-b). Repeat steps 1-5.

central strand

• 1) Using the thread tail remaining on the right medallion, weave over to figure 5, a. Go through the 60. String three hex, an AC, five hex, an AC, and three hex (a-b). Sew through the corresponding 60 on the center medallion.

• 2) Go through all the beads just strung. Start at point c and sew through the 60 and two hex. Weave the tail through several beads, knot, glue, and trim.

• 3) Start with 24 in. of conditioned thread and leave a 6-in. tail. String five hex and an AC. Repeat seven more times. End with three hex. Sew through the 60 on the right medallion (figure 6, a-b). Go back through the beads just strung (b-c).

• 4) Sew through the middle hole on the spacer. String five hex, and go through the bead tip. Wrap with tape.

• 5) Repeat steps 1-4 to complete the other end of the necklace.

swags
Work the bottom two swags with a continuous thread.

• 1) String a stop bead 6-in. from the end of 24 in. of conditioned thread. Sew through the 60 (figure 7, a) and pull the thread through until the stop bead rests against the 60. String a hex, an AC, five hex, an AC, four hex, an AC, four hex, an AC, six hex, an AC, and three hex. String an AC, then reverse the sequence just strung. Go through the corresponding 60 on the opposite medallion (a-b).

• 2) Sew through two hex (b-c) and tie a half-hitch knot. Go back through the hex beads and exit the 60.

• 3) String 10AC and a hex. Repeat twice. Then string 6AC. To make the dangle, string a hex, 7AC, a hex, a 6mm heart, and 1AC (d-e). Skip the AC and sew back through the beads to point d. String the second side of the swag by reversing the sequence strung before the dangle. Sew through the 60 back to point a.

• 4) Remove the stop bead and tie the thread ends with a surgeon’s knot. Glue the knot. Weave each of the tails through several beads, then trim.

closure
Use a seed bead inside each bead tip to secure the strands’ ends.

• 1) Carefully remove the tape from the strands at one end of the necklace. Arrange them so the five-bead strand sits inside the two six-bead strands (photo i). Slide an 110 bead over two of the threads (photo j). Use both sets of threads to tie two surgeon’s knots. Dot with glue. Trim the tails when dry.

• 2) Use chainnose pliers to close the bead tip (photo k). Slide a soldered jump ring and an S-hook or lobster claw clasp into the hook of the bead tip. Use chainnose pliers to close the hook.

• 4) Repeat on the other end of the necklace, sliding on a 3-in. (76mm) piece of chain instead of the clasp.

• 5) To make the dangle at the end of the chain, slide a hex, a 3mm crystal or bead, and a hex on a head pin. Begin a wrapped loop, (see “Basics”). Slide the end loop of chain into the wrapped loop and close the loop. Photo l shows the completed clasp.

Contact Nealay in care of Bead&Button.

by Lois Fetters

materials
• 1 Hank Czech seed beads, size 110
main color (MC)
• 5g Japanese seed beads, size 110
accent color (AC)
• 30 Porcupine quills or bugle beads, size 5
• Nymo D beading thread
• Beading needle, #12
• Clasp with a loop on each end or a 6mm
faceted button bead
• Beeswax or Thread heaven
• G-S Hypo Cement
stepbystep
Make the necklace in three parts: First bead the neckstrap, then build the pendant as an extension of the neckstrap, and finally, add the fringe. Once you master the simple beading technique to make a daisy, the necklace is fast and easy to complete.Due to the slight size difference between Czech and Japanese seed beads, use Czech seeds for the petals and a Japanese seed for the center of the daisy.Or, if you want petal colors that are only available in Japanese seed beads, use one size larger for the center of the daisy.Secure all thread ends with half hitches and a dot of glue. Feed the tail through a few beads, and after the glue is dry, trim the ends.neckstrap Do not weave in the thread tails at the ends of the neckstrap; use them to attach the clasp.

• 1) Thread a needle with 1 yd. (.9m) of conditioned beading thread. Pick up 4 MC beads and slide them to 6 in.(15cm) from the end of the thread. Pass the needle through the beads again in the same direction and pull tight. Positionthe beads so two sets of 2 beads line up next to each other (photo a).

• 2) With the working thread exiting the last bead strung, pick up 6 MC. Pass the needle down through the top bead of the second set (photo b and figure 1, a). Pull the thread tight to form a circle.

• 3) Pick up an AC and pass the needle down through bead #6 of the circle (figure 1, a-b). Pull tight.

• 4) Pick up 2 MC and pass the needle down through beads #5 and 6 (photo c).Pull tight. The two new beads stack next to beads #5 and 6. Pass the needle up through these two beads again (b-c) in the same direction and pull tight.

• 5) Repeat steps 2-4 until you’ve made a total of 65 daisies. On subsequent daisies you join to the lower bead of the 4-bead set (c-d). The neckstrap will end as it began, with two stacks of 2 beads.

pendant
Each daisy in the pendant shares two MC beads with the daisy directly above it. There are 15 daisies in the first row of the pendant. Reduce subsequent rows by one daisy at each end. The final row consists of one daisy.

• 1) Start at one end and count over to the 26th daisy on the neckstrap. This is where the first row of the pendant begins. Weave a new length of conditioned thread through several daisies before the 26th.

• 2) Working left to right, bring the needle out bead #7 (figure 2, a). Pick up 6 MC and pass through beads #8 and 7 of the daisy on the neckstrap in the same direction (photo d). Pull tight (a-b).

• 3) Go through beads #1-5 again (b-c). String an AC and go down throughbead #2 (c-d).

• 4) Pick up 2 MC and go down through beads #1 and 2. Pull tight. Go up through beads #10 and 9 (d-e) and continue through beads #8 and 7 on the next daisy (e-f).

• 5) Pick up 4 MC, go up through bead #10 (f-g). Pick up an AC. Pull tight and exit through bead #2 (g-h). Repeat steps 4 and 5 for a total of 15 daisies.

• 6) Turn the piece and weave the thread back to the second daisy in the first row of the pendant. Moving left to right, bring the thread through bead #7 out of the daisy and follow steps 2-5 for a total of 13 daisies.

• 7) Continue adding rows, as in step 6.End with a row of 3 daisies.

• 8 ) For the single daisy on the bottom of the pendant, turn the piece and position the thread so it exits bead #7 of the center daisy (figure 3, a). Pick up 6 MC and pass the needle through beads #8 and 7. Pull tight and go through beads #1–5 again (a-b). String an AC and go down through bead #2 (b-c). Weave through the MC again and secure the thread by weaving it through the row of 3 daisies and to tie it off (c-d).

fringe
Porcupine quills were incorporated in the fringe of the original necklace. You can substitute size 5 bugle beads as in the purple and silver necklace.

• 1) Condition 2 yd. (1.8m) of thread. Secure it by weaving it into two or three daisies on the left side of the necklace,exit through beads #6 and 5 on the first daisy of the pendant. String 3 MC, 1 AC, 3 MC, a bugle/quill, 3 MC, 1 AC, 3 MC, a bugle/quill, 3 MC, 1 AC, and 3 MC.

• 2) Go up through beads #2 and 1 of the daisy, (photo e). Go down beads #6 and 5 on the second daisy in the row. Then go down beads #6 and 5 of the first daisy on the next row of the pendant.

• 3) Repeat steps 1 and 2 to add fringe to the edge daisy of each row. When you reach the single daisy at the bottom, work up the right side of the pendant.Finish the final daisy on the right side and tie off the working thread by weaving it into several daisies.

clasp
Silver clasp and loop: Thread a needle on a tail at one end of the neckstrap.Sew one part of the clasp to each end of  the necklace (photo f). Repeat the thread path several times for added security. Then weave back through several daisies to secure the thread end. Button bead version: The clasp on the purple version is worked with seeds and a 6mm faceted button bead (photo g).

• 1) Using a thread tail at one end of the neckstrap, pick up 3 MC, the 6mm faceted bead and an AC. Skip the AC and pass the needle back through the faceted bead and the 3 seeds. Repeat this thread path for security. Weave through several daisies on the strap and tie half hitches (see “Basics”) to secure.

• 2) With the other thread tail, pick up 14 MC seeds. Check to see that this will create a loop that the button bead can pass through. Adjust the number of beads if needed. Pass the needle through these beads again in the same direction. Weave the tail back into the neckstrap through several of the daisies to secure and tie off as before.

materials
• 2 2-in. (5cm) or 11⁄2 in. (3.8cm) Rings
• Black electrical tape (optional)
• 1 Hank 110 seed beads, black
• 1 Package silver-lined craft store “2-cut”
beads or size 1 bugles
• 1 Spool 22-gauge craft wire, black
• 1 Spool 20-gauge craft wire, black (optional)
• 2 Crimp beads
• 10g 60 Seed beads, any colors
• 2 Flat, black pressed-glass beads for pedals
(6-8mm long)
• 1 Red pressed-glass bead for front light
• 4 Cylindrical bone beads, approx. 1⁄2 in.
(1.3cm) long
• 1 Sheet Shrinky Dink
• Colored pencils
• Beading needles, #12
• Nymo D beading thread, black
Tools: scissors, hole punch, wire cutter, roundand
chainnose pliers, tape measure or ruler,
drill with fine bit

stepbystep
After beading the wheels and making assorted bicycle parts including the seat, chain guard, gear sprocket, axle, and head set, you assemble the bicycle body by lacing the parts together with seed beads on wire. Final steps include adding the pedals and handle bars.
wheels
I prefer to use brass rings (sold as macramé rings) because of their weight, but use what you can find in a local
crafts or fabric store. If desired, cover the rings with black electrical tape, or let the metallic glint provide a natural wheel frame effect.

1) If using a white plastic ring, cover it with black electrical tape, burnishing it to the ring and trimming rough edges.
2)Thread a needle with 2 yd. (1.8m) of thread and tie the end onto the ring tightly with a square knot and a few half hitches (see “Basics”).
3)Transfer 3 strands of black 110 seed beads to the thread (about 60 in. /1.5m). Run your needle through the last bead again to secure the strand temporarily and keep it snug as you work.
4)Wrap the strand around and around the ring to cover it. When the end reaches the beginning, go through the first few beads (photo a). Then square stitch (see “Basics”) a few beads at the end and the beginning together to secure them (photo b). Knot with a few half hitches between beads, go through a few beads after the last knot, and cut off the thread. Note: If you haven’t strung enough beads to reach the beginning without gaps, add more; if you have too many, remove them. Make the second wheel.
5)To make a hub for each wheel, string 8 black 110 beads on a 11⁄2-yd.(1.35m) thread. Tie the beads into a tight circle with a square knot and weave the end in later.
6)Square stitch two beads at a time around the circle (see “Basics” and photo c). Work a second square-stitch
row and leave the thread in place for making the spokes.
8)With the hub centered in the tire, alternately string black 110 seed beads and silver 2-cuts to reach the bottom inside of the tire. Go through the beads around the outside of the tire and string a parallel spoke back to the other edge of the hub (photo d). These are the south spokes. Go around through half the hub edge beads to the north side and make the pair of north spokes.
9)Add the east and west spokes in the same fashion (photo e). Then add a set of spokes between each compass point.
Note: You may be tempted to run through the spokes to tighten them as you go. Don’t. Make all the spokes first. If there are any gaps when you are done, run through them again. Complete the second wheel.

assorted bicycle parts
Trace, color with colored pencils,

1) cut out, and bake the Shrinky Dink chain guard and sprocket (figure 1 and 2a or b, shown full size), following manufacturer’s directions. (Different brands shrink to different percentages. If you use another brand, divide the desired finished size by the finished percentage after shrinking and make the template the resulting size.) You can cut the holes in the chain guard 3⁄4 in. (2cm) from the edge with a standard hole punch as shown on figure 1 before baking. Drill a hole in the center of the sprocket after baking.
2) Use a bone bead for the head set at the base of the handle bars. Drill 3 holes all the way through both sides of the bead. Two are side by side placed vertically on the bead toward one end. Drill the third hole perpendicular to the first two and a little toward the other end of the bead (figure 3).
3) Use a bone bead for the pedal axle.Drill two holes near the center, slightly offset and perpendicular to each other (figure 4).
4) For the seat, cut a 20-in. (51cm) length of black 22-gauge wire. String 3 size 60 beads onto the wire and bend it
in half. Run the opposite end of the wire through the last 2 beads (photo f). For the next row, string 3 beads on one wire and run the other wire through from the other side. Continue in this manner, following figure 5. When you have woven the last row, bow the middle of the seat up slightly. Twist the wires together 2-3 times right under the seat and leave the tails for later (photo g).
bike frame
Using 20-gauge wire gives you a sturdier bike, but it will not go through bugles.The 22-gauge wire goes through bugles but not doubled. To build the bicycle frame, you can use any size or variety of beads you like as long as they go over the wire and allow you to reach the specified measurements
1) Cut two 20-in. lengths of 20- or 22-gauge wire. Cut one 3-in. (7.6cm) length, one 4-in. (10cm) length, and one 6-in. (15cm) length.
2) String a 60 bead, a wheel hub, and a 60 bead onto the center of both 20-in.wires. Pull one pair of wires forward and one back and ignore the back wires.
3) String 14 60 beads (11⁄2 in. / 3.8cm) on each of the front pair of wires.
4) Run both ends through a 60 bead, the middle hole of the axle bone bead and a 60 bead (photo h).
5)String 14 60 beads (11⁄2 in.) on each end of the wire.
6) String a 60 bead, the other wheel’s hub, and a 60 bead on one wire end and cross the other wire end through the three elements. Pull tight (photo i).
7) String 14 60 beads (11⁄2 in.) on each end of the wire.
8 ) Run both ends through a 60 bead, the original hole of the bone head set bead, a 60 bead, and a crimp bead. Make sure all the beads are tight and even and crimp the crimp bead (photo j). Don’t crimp it tightly enough to break the wire. Leave the tails for later.
9)String 16 60 beads (13⁄4 in. / 4.3cm) onto both tail wires from the seat held together. Run the ends through the second hole of the axle bone bead (photo k). Add a crimp bead. Pull the beads tight and crimp carefully.
10) String 14 60 beads (11⁄2 in.) onto each end of the second 20-in. wire. Run both ends through two 60 beads. Pass the ends of the wire forward on each side of the seat post wire 3 beads below the seat and string 16 more 60 beads (13⁄4 in.) onto both ends held together. Turn the head set bone bead so the pair of holes faces the seat. Run both wires through the top hole (photo l).
11)Separate the wires and run one through the lower hole. String 20 60 beads (21⁄4 in. / 5.6cm). Wrap the end of the wire next to the axle bone bead (photo m). Trim the tail.
12) To make the light, string the red bead on the wire tail left on the head set bone bead. Trim the wire to 1⁄4 – 3⁄8 in. (6mm-1cm) and make a small loop with the roundnose pliers (see “Basics” and photo n).
finishing touches
1)To make the pedals, bend a small loop on one end of the 4-in. wire. String a pedal bead, 6 60 beads, the top hole of the large end of the chain guard and a 60 bead. Run through the original hole of the axle bone bead. String 6 60 beads and a pedal bead. Trim the wire and make a small loop (photo o).

These earrings go with the beautiful asymetrical necklace
Supplies
2 8-12 mm gemstone chips
12 4 mm bicone crystals
20 in. (50 cm) 24-gauge half-hard wire
2 2-in. (5 cm) head pins
pair of earring wires
chainnose and roundnose pliers
diagonal wire cutters

Step 1:
Cut a 2-in. (5 cm) piece of 24-gauge wire. Make a coil on one end. String a bicone and make a wrapped loop (Basics*). Make five bicone units.
Step 2:
On a head pin, string a gemstone chip, the bicone units, and a bicone. Make a wrapped loop.
Step 3:
Open the loop of an earring wire. Attach the dangle and close the loop. Make a second earring to match the first.

Pair crystals and sterling-silver chain for a lovely earring set
by Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Adorable heart-link chain was the inspiration for these light-hearted holiday adornments.
materials
earrings
• Swarovski crystals
2 6mm rondelles
14 4mm bicones
4 4mm rounds
• 10 in. (25cm) 22-gauge
silver wire
• 10 in. (25cm) heart-link
chain, 23 links per earring
• 2 1-in. (2.5cm) 22-gauge
head pins
• 4 4–6mm jump rings
• pair of earring findings
• chainnose pliers
• roundnose pliers
• wire cutters
Cut the chain into single heart links, and use the pieces as cute, little charms to dangle from the earrings.
stepbystep

[1] Cut the heart-link chain in half, making sure each half has 31 links. Cut each half into two five-link segments, three three-link segments, and four single hearts.
[2] On one end of the wire, make a plain loop (Basics).String a 4mm bicone crystal and make a plain loop. Repeat to make a second small-bead unit. Repeat to make two medium-bead units, stringing a 4mm round crystal and a bicone.
Repeat to make a largebead unit, stringing a bicone, a 6mm rondelle, and a bicone (photo a).
[3] Open the loop of the round-bead end of a mediumbead unit, and attach a single heart. Close the loop. Repeat with the matching unit and the two small-bead units (photo b).
[4] String a bicone on a head pin, and make a plain loop. Open the loop and attach a three-link chain (photo c). Close the loop.
[5] Open a jump ring (Basics) and attach the two five-link chains. Close the jump ring (photo d).
[6] Open a loop of the largebead unit. Attach a three-link chain, a medium-bead unit, and the remaining end link of a five-link chain. Close the loop. Repeat on the other side of the large-bead unit (photo e).
[7] Open a jump ring, and attach the remaining end links of the three-link chains, a small-bead unit, the dangle, and the remaining small-bead unit. Close the jump ring (photo f).
[8] Open the loop of an earring finding. Attach the top jump ring of the earring, and close the loop.
[9] Repeat steps 2–8 to make a second earring to match the first.

FINISHED SIZE 21⁄2”
Materials
52 cream soda size 11° seed beads (A)
10 amber/rose AB size 10° triangles (B)
10 pink opal 6mm bell flowers
8 raspberry/white 7mm star cups
2 cranberry 7mm star cups
2 raspberry/white 5×7mm leaves
2 knot cups
Pair of ear wires
20″ of white PowerPro beading thread
Tools
Twisted wire beading needle
Round-nose pliers
Flat-nose pliers
Scissors
Super Glue Gel

Step By Step

• (1): Use 10″ of thread to string 1 size 11°; tie a double knot around the bead, leaving a 4″ tail. String 1 knot cup, nestling the bead inside.

• (2): Branches. String 4A, 1 leaf, and 15A. String 1 cranberry star cup, one 6mm bell flower, and1B; pass back through the flower, the star, and 4A. *String 3A, 1 raspberry star cup, 1 bell flower, and 1B; pass back through the flower, the star, and 3A. Pass back up through 4A of the stem (Figure 1). Repeat from * to add three more flowers up the stem (Figure 2).

• (3): Pass back through the knot cup and tie a knot with the tail thread. Trim the tails close and dab the knot with glue. Bend a loop with the end of the knot cup to attach an ear wire.

• (4): Repeat Steps 1–3 for a second earring.

For more of this  beautiful work, please visit the mother and daughter  website http://www.bodacious-beadery.com/index.htm