Drafting Short Jacket


how to draft jacket pattern
1 and 2) – front shoulder dart using the hip-length dress foundation as a guide, draw slash lines from shoulder to breast point, and from center front to breast point,; then slash and spread, closing
up the side dart as shown in diagram 2. 3) lower the neckline as indicated; then lower the armhole, add to the side seams and at center front, and then draw lower edge lines of jacket.
4) – jacket facings first add 1” hem to lower edge of jacket; then draft the neck and front facings

5 and 6 – sleeve
using the dress sleeve foundation, increase  width of sleeve; then shorten sleeve. add 1”  hem.
7 – collar
trace top of jacket front; then draft collar as follows:
a to c – equals neck measure, from center front to center back. draw line from a to c, through point b.
8 ) -c to d – 1-1/4” (this equals the collar stand at center back). draw squared line, from c to d to point e at
center of curved neckline.
c to f – equals c to d, plus 1/2″. draw straight line from d to f, through point c.
9) f to g – square from line d-f to point g, about 1” from lapel;
then connect g to a, to complete collar.
10 )– upper collar
make upper collar 1/8” wider than under collar as shown. to complete pattern, add seams. make corresponding notches.

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