Netted Cabochon Necklace
With a deeply colored stone as its centerpiece, this necklace suggests the riches of a mysterious woman. A peyote-stitched bezel—worked with seed beads that decrease in size to hold the stone in place—is held aloft with lacy layers of netting. Design By: G l e n d a P a y s a n o M a t e r i a l s 40mm round dolomite marble cabochon Size 10° pale purple matte seed beads Size 11° purple seed beads in 5 assorted finishes and shades (dark silver-lined, dark transparent, medium frosted, pale matte, and pale pearl finish) Size 15° dark purple hex-cut seed beads Size 15° pale purple seed beads 16 size 8° medium purple seed beads 8 lilac 4mm fire-polished rounds 4 dark purple 6mm fire-polished rounds 8 silver 5mm daisy spacers 2 crimp tubes Clasp Size D Nymo beading thread 20″ of .012 beading wire To o l s Size 12 beading needle Scissors Wire cutters Crimping pliers Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3 Figure 4 Techniques Tubular peyote stitch, brick-stitch netting, stringing, crimping Finished Size 16″BEZEL Step 1: Use 4′ of thread with a needle on each end to work tubular peyote stitch. Use one needle to work the front of the bezel and the other to work the back. Rounds 1 and 2: String 1 size 10° (Round 1) and 1 size 11° (Round 2) thirty-eight times, or use enough beads to reach around the circumference of the cabochon. Pass through the first bead again to form a circle, leaving a 2′ tail. Round 3, front: String 1 size 11° and pass through the next size 10°; repeat around. Step up by passing through the first bead of this round (Figure 1). Rounds 2 and 3, back: Use the tail thread to repeat Round 3 on the other side of the size 10°s (Figure 2). Rounds 4 and 5, front: Work 1 size 11° in each stitch; step up at the end of each round. Slip the cabochon inside the beadwork and check for fit. The rows for the back should come to the edge of the stone and the rows in the front should lie just above the curve of the stone (Figure 3). Round 4, back: Work 1 size 11° in each stitch; step up at the end of each round. Round 6, front: Work 1 size 15° hex in each stitch, pulling the thread tight to cinch the tube around the stone. Rounds 5–9 back: Work 1 size 15° in each stitch, pulling tight to cinch the tube (Figure 4). Weave the tails through several beads to secure, then trim close to the work. BASE STRIP Step 2: Foundation row. Use 4′ of thread to begin a strip of 1- and 2-drop peyote stitch. The single beads along the top are a mix of size 11°s (A), and the 2-bead stacks along the bottom are dark purple size 11°s (B). Start: String 1A and 4B. Pass back through the A, leaving a 10″ tail (Figure 5). Stitch 1: String 1A and pass down through the last 2-bead stack (Figure 6). Stitch 2: String 2B and pass up through the last A (Figure 7). Repeat Stitches 1 and 2 for about 9″ (Figure 8). Step 3: Picot. Flip the beadwork over to work a picot edge along the 2-bead edge of the foundation row from left to right. Start: String 1 dark purple (B), 1 light purple (C), 1 dark purple (B). Pass under the thread between the second and third 2-bead stack, then back through the last bead strung (Figure 9). Stitch: String 1C and 1B. Pass under the next thread, between the third and fourth stacks, then back through the last bead (Figure 10). Continue adding 2 beads at a time and passing under the thread between the stacks and back through the last bead (Figure 11). Leave the thread tail at the end. NETTING Step 4: Attach the cabochon bezel at the center of the foundation row (Figure 12). Do not worry about the exact placement—the bezel may be centered at each end by the tail threads in Step 10. Start: Using 4′ of thread, pass through a size 10° of the bezel leaving a 2′ tail. Working from left to right, *string 3B and pass up through an edge bead of the foundation row, then down through the next bead. Pass back through the last 3B and through the next size 10° of the bezel. Stitch 2: Repeat once from *. Stitches 3 and 4: String 2B and pass up through the last edge bead and down through the next bead; pass back through the last 2B and through the next size 10° of the bezel. Stitches 5 and 6: Repeat Stitch 2, stringing 3B for each stitch. Pass each tail thread through 1 size 11° and 1 size 10° to begin netting. Step 5: Netting Row 1. Use one of the tail threads from Step 4 to work the first row of brick-stitch netting along the foundation strip (Figure 13). Start: String 5C and 2B; pass under the fourth loop from the last connecting stitch along the foundation row and back through the last 2B. Stitch 1: String 2B; pass under the next loop and back through the last 2B. Stitch 2: String 3C and 2B; pass under the next loop and back through the last 2B. Stitch 3: String 2B; pass under the next loop and back through the last 2B. Stitch 4: String 7C and 2B; pass under the fourth loop and back through the last 2B. Repeat Stitches 1–4 four times, then repeat Stitches 1–3 at the end of the row. Repeat entire sequence using the thread on the other side of the cabochon.Step 6: Netting Row 2. Secure a new thread at one end of the foundation strip, exiting the last 2B of the previous row. Start: String 3B, 1 frosty purple (D), and 2B; pass through the first C of the previous row and back through the last 2B. Stitch 1: String 3D and 2B; pass through the third C of the previous row and back through the last 2B. Stitch 2: String 3B; pass under the loop between the next two stitches of the previous row and back through the last 3B. Stitch 3: String 11D and 3B; pass under the loop between the next two stitches of the previous row and back through the last 3B. Stitch 4: String 2B; pass through the first C of the next stitch of the previous row and back through the last 2B. Repeat Stitches 1–4 four times, then repeat Stitches 1 and 2. String 7D and pass through the second and third size 10°s along the edge of the bezel. Step 7: Netting Row 3. String 12 silver-lined dark purple (E); pass under the first loop of the previous row and back through the last 3E. Repeat as in Row 2, stringing 13E in place of the 11D. Step 8: Netting Row 4: Repeat Row 2, using 16 matte opaque light purple in place of the 11D. String 11 beads to attach the last loop to the bezel at the end of the row. Step 9: Netting Row 5. Repeat Row 3, stringing 18B to begin and 17B in place of the 11D.Step 10: Adjust the foundation strip if necessary so that each end is the same length; the accent beads and clasp will add 31⁄2″ to each end of the strip. Finish the tail threads by passing through the foundation strip and tying knots between bead; trim close to the work. Step 11: Stringing. Cut 10″ of wire and pass through the last two beads of the foundation strip. *String 5B on each end of the wire. Hold both ends evenly together to string 1 size 8°, one 4mm, 1 size 8°, 1 spacer, one 7mm, 1 spacer, 1 size 8°, one 4mm, and 1 size 8°. Repeat from * once. Use both ends to string 1 crimp tube, then pass each end in opposite directions through one half of the clasp; pass back through the tube, snug the beads, and crimp. Repeat on the other end of the strip. Glenda Paysano has been beading for seven years, mostly making jewelry to sell at a local farmer’s market every summer.
She loves teaching off-loom beading techniques at her online bead club, Beadchat (http://groups.yahoo.com/ group/Beadchat). Contact Glenda at firstname.lastname@example.org.