How to Grade Sleeves
Kimono – Raglan – Dolman sleeve grading grading the kimono sleeve chart shows how pattern is graded from size 16 to 18. when grading the front and back 1/4” longer in the waist, th increase must be made near the top, as illustrated. this gives the sleeve 1/2” grade across the top. for the ladies sizes with shoulder or side darts, use the same method of grading the darts as shown on the grade from 36 to 38. when grading a pattern for a loose fitting garment, grade front and back 3/8” each in the width, making only 1/8” grade at the underarm instead of 1/4”. for junior sizes, use the same method as described below for the dolman sleeve.
grading the raglan sleeve chart shows the grade from 16 to 18 for the front, back and sleeve. when grading the raglan sleeve and the raglan armhole of the front and back, it is important to grade the corresponding positions. the amount used for grading must tally with the grade of a pattern with a regular armhole and set-in sleeve. for instance; the total grade from neck to wrist of 16 to 18 is 3/4”, or 1/8” at shoulder, 1/8” at the cap of the sleeve, and 1/8” above 1/8” below the elbow. the width of the sleeve at the neck remains the same for all sizes. the usual grade in the neck is given in the front and back only.
grading the dolman sleeve chart shows where and how much pattern is graded from size 16 to 18. the grade of th waist length is similar to the grade of the kimono sleeve pattern. the entire 1/4” grade is made near the top of the front and back and a corresponding grade at the top of the sleeve. for the junior sizes, from 13 to 15, or 15 to 17, etc., the grade is the same as shown in the chart, the only difference being an extra grade of 1/4” between the armhole and the waistline in front and back sections. this would account for the 1/2” grade in the waist length, between the neck and the waistline. for ladies sizes, see directions above for the kimono sleeve.