Illustration shows jacket fastened with link buttons at waistline. collar has 1-1/4” stand at center back, and 1” stand at shoulder seam. upper collar and front facing are in one piece, with seam at center back.
jacket is a 7 gore style.
1) using the jacket foundation, mark position for seam in front, from shoulder to breast point; then draw a straight line at center front, as shown by dotted line. 2) swing upper part of front to within 1/2″ of dotted line, pivoting at breast point; then trace. 3) draw the rolling line from waistline up, beginning at center front and stopping 1” away from neck at shoulder seam.
4) Fold paper on rolling line; then trace neck, center front, and part of shoulder,
5) Draft the shawl collar from A to I, using the same method and dimensions as for the notch collar; then continue as follows:
D to J – Draw a straight line from D to J, 1” past 1.
H to K – Draw a slightly curved line passing through point J.
6) Fold paper on rolling line and trace revers to complete front.
7) This diagram shows under collar and front separated with the rolling line indicating the stand in collar.
8 ) For facing and upper collar in one, place under collar to neck edge of front and trace, making facing 1” wide at shoulder, and 3” wide at lower edge.
9) This diagram shows upper collar and facing in one.
Facing must be lengthening to correspond with the front length, as shown in diagram 10.
10) Complete the draft by tracing back foundation to the front with side seams even; then divide back and front into 4 sections as follows:
For back, square a line across at bust line from center back; then draw a straight line from bust line to hip, 4″ from center back, and from bust line to shoulder, 2-1/4″ from neck. Reduce shoulder 1/4″ to nothing, 4″ below shoulder.
For front, draw a straight line from breast point to hip, 4″ from center front,
For semi-fitted jacket, reduce at waistline 1/2″ each side of straight line to nothing at bust and hip lines; then lengthen as indicated.
11) Inside view of unlined jacket