How to Draft Dress Bodice Foundation
(junior petite and teen sizes)
The pattern measurements and drafts shown below, are for the dress bodice and sleeve for junior petite – size 7, and for teen size 12. Junior petite pattern are proportionately designed for the fully developed figure, about 5 ft tall. Teen size patterns are designed for the fairly developed figure, measuring about 5 ft. 3” tall.
DRAFT OF DRESS BODICE PATTERN
The draft above includes ease allowance around
bust, and about 1” around waistline. Draft front and back according to the measurements listed to the left, and use the
draft directions given in junior’s, misses’ and women’s
but make the following changes: Draw line for front side seam, 3/4″ away from back side seam at waistline (point BB), to nothing at armhole (M) as indicated.
FRONT WITH SIDE DART
1 and 2 – Slash on dotted line (A to B) and spread, making the width of side and waist darts alike, as shown by dotted lines. 3 – For closer fit (just below the bust), make the waist dart 1/2″ wider (4” above the waistline),
BACK WITH SHOULDER DART
4 AND 5 – Instead of 1/4″ ease at shoulder seam, make 1/2″ wide dart, 3” long at center of shoulder seam; then add 1/4″ to shoulder at armhole as shown by dotted lines. Make the waist dart, 1” shorter at tap.
HOW TO DRAFT PATTERN
Draft sleeve according to the measurements
listed to the left, and use the draft directions given in junior’s
misses’ and woman-(dress sleeve)
but make the following changes in diagram 4: A to M – 1/3 of A to K,
A to P – 1/3 of A to L,
Length of elbow dart, 3-1/4”.
The measurements include the necessary ease allowance around arm (at muscle), elbow and wrist.