How to Draft the Straight Skirt


Straight Skirt
Draft of Front
1 ) A to B – Equals center front length.
A to C – 6-1/2” from waist to hip.
C to D – Equals 1/4 of hip measure plus 1/2” for ease.
B to E – Equals hipline C-D. Square across at B.
E to F – Equals center front line A-B plus 1/4”.
Draw a line up from E to F, through D.
F to A – Connect by drawing slightly curved line.
B to G – Equals 1/4 of sweep measurement; then
Connect from G to D.
A to H – Equals 1/4 of waist measure plus 1/2”  for ease.
H to J – 1/2”; then draw slightly curved line from A to J.
J to D – Connect [1/2” dart may be made in front, in place of the ease]

2
B to K – Equals 1/2 of line B-G: then square a line from  side seam to point K.
To complete the front, draw a curved line at bottom, and above point D.
Draw curved hipline parallel to lower curved line.

Straight Skirt

DRAFT OF THE BACK
3
A to B – Equals center back length
A to C – 7” from waist to hip.
C to D – Equals 1/4 of hip measure plus 1/2″ for ease.
B to E – Equals center back line, less 1/4”.
E to F – Equals 1/4 of sweep; then connect from G to D.
C to H – 4”, with 1/8” grade for each size.
A to J – Equals C to H; then connect J to H and make
A V-shaped dart, 1” wide at point J.
A to K – Equals 1/4 of waist measure plus 1” for dart.
K to L – 1/2″; then draw slightly curved line, from L to A.
L to D – Connect.
B to M – Equals 1/2 of line B-G: then use same method to complete the back as described for the front.
For waistband, make a double band 1-1/2” wide
finished and the length of waist measure plus 3/4”
extension for left side opening.
To complete pattern, allow for seams and hem.

4 piece skirts with pleated insets
style features inverted pleats at lower part of
center front and back which add to the sweep at lower edge

DRAFT OF THE FRONT and back
1) Trace outline of front foundation then add about 2” pleat at lower  part of center front, make ½ dart 4” long at the center front of waistline
2
For the inset, draft a corresponding section to fit the width and length of pleat.
Trace outline of back foundation, then make the
pleat and inset the same width and length as the
front that should add 16” to the lower edge of the skirt.
Add seams and hem..

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