Draft of One-Piece Dress Sleeve
The illustrations above show how to take the following arm measurements:
1. Underarm length – from armhole to wrist.
2. Arm circumference – a little below armhole.
3. Elbow circumference – with arm bent up.
4. Over arm length – from shoulder to wrist.
5. Wrist circumference – a loose measurement.
how to draft the sleeve foundation sizes 12 to 20
the sleeve draft provides for a 2”, minimum ease allowance around the arm at muscle.
for example: if arm measurement is 11” for size 16
make sleeve pattern 13” wide, or 6-1/2” from d to e.
when drafting the sleeve, line a-b should be directly in center of draft
2. guide links for sleeve cap
k to n – equals 1/2 of line k-m
d to r – equals 1/2 of d-c.
k to o – equals 1/4 of line k to m
m to s – equals 1/2 of m-e, less 1/2″.
m to p – equals 1/4 of line k-m
c to t – 1”
k to q – equals 1/2 of k-d.
draw the guide lines from o to q to r for front of sleeve;
for back of sleeve, from p to s to t.
sleeve cap
for top of cap, draw a curved line from s to n to q; for bottom of cap. from q to a to s
3. shaping the sleeve
shape the draft of sleeve as follows:
j to u – 1/2″.
u to g – connect
u to v – equals 1/2 of wrist measure. draw this line 3-1/2” long for size 16, with 1/8” grade for each size, bringing point
v, about 3/4″ below line j-l.
v to h – connect.
v to w – equals 1/2 of line u to v.
w to f – connect.
4) to complete the sleeve, fold drafting paper on line q-g, and trace from q to a to f; then open paper and fold again
on line g-u, and trace from f to w to u.
5 and 6) repeat process for tracing back of sleeve as, then convert the extra length at elbow [about 1-1/4”] by making a v- shaped dart about 3” long for size 16 [with 1/8” grade for each size]. to complete sleeve pattern, allow seams.
one piece shaped sleeve with 3 elbow darts
the feature of this sleeve is that it is slightly more shaped than the sleeve with the single elbow dart. 1) for the 3 elbow darts, add 1” to back edge of sleeve by slashing along the elbow line, from back to front, and spreading 1” at elbow. 2) plan the 3 darts by first drafting the center dart, 3/4″ x 2-1/2”. then draft the other 2 darts, one above, and the other below the center dart,
Tags: arm circumference, arm length, arm measurement, dart, darts, elbow, illustrations, measurements, sewing seams, shape