Drafting the One-Piece Dress Sleeve
The illustrations show how to take the following arm measurements:
1. Underarm length – from armhole to wrist.
2. Arm circumference – a little below armhole.
3. Elbow circumference – with arm bent up.
4. Over arm length – from shoulder to wrist.
5. Wrist circumference – a loose measurement.
How to draft the sleeve foundation sizes 12 to 20
The sleeve draft provides for a 2”, minimum ease allowance around the arm at muscle.
For example: if arm measurement is 11” for size 16 make sleeve pattern 13” wide, or 6-1/2” from D to E. When drafting the sleeve, line A-B should be directly in center of draft
2. GUIDE LINKS FOR SLEEVE CAP
K to N – Equals 1/2 of line K-M.
D to R – Equals 1/2 of D-C. K to O – Equals 1/4 of line K to M.
M to S – Equals 1/2 of M-E, less 1/2″. M to P – Equals 1/4 of line K-M.
C to T – 1” K to Q – Equals 1/2 of K-D.
Draw the guide lines from O to Q to R for front of sleeve; for back of sleeve, from P to S to T.
For top of cap, draw a curved line from S to N to Q; for bottom of cap. From Q to A to S
3. SHAPING THE SLEEVE
Shape the draft of sleeve as follows: J to U – 1/2″. U to G – Connect U to V – Equals 1/2 of wrist measure.
Draw this line 3-1/2” long for size 16, with 1/8” grade for each size, bringing point V, about 3/4″ below line J-L. V to H – Connect.
V to W – Equals 1/2 of line U to V. W to F – Connect. 4)
To complete the sleeve, fold drafting paper on line Q-G, and trace from Q to A to F; then open paper and fold again on line G-U, and trace from F to W to U. 5 and 6)
Repeat process for tracing back of sleeve as, then convert the extra length at elbow [about 1-1/4”] by making a V-shaped dart about 3” long for size 16 [with 1/8” grade for each size].
To complete sleeve pattern, allow seams.
ONE PIECE SHAPED SLEEVE WITH 3 ELBOW DARTS
The feature of this sleeve is that it is slightly more shaped than the sleeve with the single elbow dart. 1) For the 3 elbow darts, add 1” to back edge of sleeve by slashing along the elbow line, from back to front, and spreading 1” at elbow. 2) Plan the 3 darts by first drafting the center dart, 3/4″ x 2-1/2”. Then draft the other 2 darts, one above, and the other below the center dart,.