Drafting the Jumper Dress
JUMPER is a sleeveless dress and may be worn over a blouse or sweater. The neckline is usually cut low in front, neck and over the shoulders. Armholes are also cut a little deeper. Because the bodice is sleeveless, it is made closer fitting at underarm seams.
THIS STYLE features side and waist darts in front of bodice; waist darts in back. Skirt has inserted pockets in front. Also a soft pleat near each pocket opening for needed fullness over the pockets. There is a kick pleat, 22” in length, at center back if skirt.
DRAFT OF BODICE BACK
1) Using the hip length dress foundation, trace back to waistline only; then reduce width and length of dart as indicated.
2) Deepen the armhole 1/2″; then reduce width of back 1/2″ at side seam. Lower the neckline 1-1/2” at center back and 2” at shoulder seam.
3 and 4
Draft facings 1-1/4” wide for neck and armhole; then trace as shown in diagram 4.
DRAFT OF SKIRT BACK
5) Trace back hip section; then reduce width and length of dart.
Curve hipline up 3/4” toward side; then continue straight lines down at side and center back to required length. Make lower curved line parallel to hip line.
6 & 7) Reduce 1/2″ at side edge and raise waistline 3/4″ at side edge to round the side seam over hip. Add 22” length kick pleat at center back, as shown by dotted lines.
1 & 2) Trace front to waistline only. Make waistline dart 1/2” wider. Lower the armhole 1/2”. Reduce width1/2” at top of side seam. For side dart, draw line from side seam to a point 2” diagonally above breast point. Slash and spread, making center front line straight as shown in diagram 3.
3 ) Lower the neckline as indicated.
4 and 5) Draft neck and armhole facing 1-1/4” wide; then trace.
DRAFT OF SKIRT FRONT
6) Trace front hip section; then curve hipline up 3⁄4” toward side.
Draft outline of skirt below hip as described for skirt back. Reduce 1/2″ at side edge and raise waistline 3/4″ same as back draft. For a 2” waistline pleat, slash through dart to bottom, and spread 1” at top as shown in diagram 7. This provides for a soft pleat [1” deep] near pocket opening.
Draw a diagonal pocket opening line as indicated.
Draft outline of pocket as shown by dotted lines. Trace shaded part for inset and pocket as shown in diagram 9.
9) For pucker in pocket opening, make skirt 1/2″ wider at upper part of side seam to nothing at bottom. Make inside pocket corresponding wider at opening as shown by dotted lines.
Trace shaded part of inside pocket as shown in diagram 11.
Add hem at bottom of skirt; then add seams on all sewing edges.