Jacket foundation

1) using the dress foundation as a guide, trace front and back 1/4″ apart at side seam; then broaden the shoulders 1/2″, lower the armhole 1/2″, and lower the neckline 1/3”

2) for single breasted jacket, add 3/4” to center front; for double breasted, about 3”. for jacket sleeve, use method of drafting as given for dress sleeve, but making cap height 1/2″ greater than for the dress sleeve, due to the deeper armhole.

Draft of jacket sleeve

3.) this chart shows draft of sleeve made wider at arm and elbow to provide the jacket sleeve with greater width than the dress sleeve. the underarm length is 17-3/4”.

4 & 5) the dotted lines show the shaping of the sleeve 1-1/2” forward, and 5” wide at lower edge. mark the position for seams which form the under sleeve section. the extension at the lower back edge is for the placket.

6) complete the upper sleeve section by tracing the front and back parts,.

Coat foundation

1) using the dress foundation as a guide, trace front and back 1/2″ apart at side seam. lower the neckline 1/4″ and armhole 1”, and then broaden shoulder 1/2″.

2) for a single breasted coat, add 1” to center front; for double breasted, about 3-1/2”. for coat sleeve, use the same method as given for the dress sleeve, but make cap height 1” greater than the dress sleeve

Draft of coat sleeve

3.) this chart shows draft of sleeve made to conform to the dimensions of a coat sleeve, with underarm length 17-3/4”.

4) for a slightly shaped sleeve, bring lower part of sleeve forward about 3/4″.

5) trace front and back of sleeve as indicated by dotted lines; then draw a v-shaped dart along back of sleeve at elbow.

note: for jacket and coat foundations, seams are to be allowed on all sewing edges.