(junior petite and teen sizes) dress manufacturers and commercial pattern companies have agreed on a list of body measurements for junior petite figures, ranging in sizes 3,5,7,9 and 11, and for the teens in sizes 10, 12, 14 and 16. they have also set a basis for grading these patterns from one size to another, as shown below in detail. the junior petite samples are usually made up in size 7; the teens, in size 12. according to the chart of measurements listed below, the increases per size, around bust, waist and hip, are as [...]

Darts, Tucks and Grading style 1 – front with side darts this style features side and waist darts which give it a smoother fit over the bust. using the bodice front foundation, make a side dart in pattern as follows: 1) slash along side dart line (o to q); then spread and make the waist dart 2” wide at waistline as shown in diagram 2. 2 and 3) draw v-shaped lines 4-1/2” long for side dart, and 5-1/2” long for waist dart (for size 16-1/2). style 2 – with side dart and waist tucks the [...]

how to draft the sleeve 1 and 2 using the dress sleeve foundation, take out the elbow dart by making a tuck in back of sleeve to nothing in front; then draw straight lines from elbow to wrist at each side as indicated. 3) to allow for gathers at bottom, divide sleeve into 4 equal parts. mark sections a to d; then slash along dotted lines and spread as shown in diagram 4. 4) shorten sleeve as follows: 2” at each side; 2-1/2” at front slash; 1-1/2” at back slash at which point draw a [...]