|PATTERN MAKING E-BOOKS
This pattern making E-book is for all those who love to sew but don’t know where to start. With this e-book youwilllearn how to take measurement correctly, learn how to make the basic foundation pattern, then move on to making any style in this book or using your own creative fashion knowledge you will go on to making style upon styles for yourself and your family, or this may be the start of a fashion career for you..
I know this E-book will be of great help to you in starting a career in patten making and fashion designing. And with your creative thinking you will be well on your way to becoming a top pattern maker and fashion designer…… Wear something you proudly Sew!!!!
basic guide to pattern making -INDEX
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THIS E-BOOK reveals the secrets of cutting smart patterns that professionals know will produce smart, graceful apparel. The pattern is the design for a garment. It is to the dress designer what the blue print is to the architect. Only well-cut garments have STYLE; and this style is achieved only through clever shaping, careful placing of the grain of the fabric, exaggeration of the silhouette at just the right point. As the pattern is, so the finished gown will be.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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when drafting a foundation pattern for the human figure, it is not only important to take the necessary measurements, but also to take them correctly.
for best results, students should first practice taking measurements, of the dress form (for drafting purposes) before taking measurements of the human figure.
first have the person wear a plain dress or blouse, with a high neckline, regular armhole, and plain set-in-sleeve ; then arrange a tape or thin cord around bust and waistline rather closely, as illustrated.
before taking the measurements, place pins on the garments at the positions indicated on figures 1 and 2, as follows:
1 – Center back at neck.
2 – Center back at waistline.
3 – Shoulder seam at armhole.
4 – Shoulder seam at neck.
5 – Side seam at armhole.
6 – Side seam at waistline.
7 – Center front at neck.
8 – Center front at waistline.
Use a standard tape measure to take all the measurements on the figure; use the tailor’s square or triangle to draft the pattern. When taking the front and back measurements (from side to side at bust line) have the person take a deep breath. This will provide the fitted waist with the necessary ease allowance around bust. For example: a size 16 model measures 34” around bust, but after taking a deep breath she will measure between 36” to 36-1/2”. All dress forms have the chest expansion allowance. Therefore the fitted waist pattern should include the chest expansion allowance or else the side seams will tend to rip.
Illustration above shows the relative positions between the figure and the waist pattern. It also illustrates some of the important corresponding points at waistline, neck and armhole depth, as follows:
waistline – according to the present style trend, the waistline slopes at a slight angle, making the waistline 1/2” lower at center front, and 1/4” lower at side seam than at center back, as indicated at points a, b and c.
neck – the posture of the figure brings the back of neck, point d, about 2” higher than front of neck point e, (measuring from the floor level).
armhole depth – point f at armhole is located about 1” below the armpit of the human figure. this applies to a dress with or without sleeves.
shoulder slope – the normal slope of the shoulder brings the point at armhole about 2” lower than at neck.
waist darts – the darts in front and back give the garment a smooth and close fit at the waistline.
the use of the tailor’s square
1) diagram shows important construction lines in the draft of the back. it demonstrates the use of the square in miniature forms.
when drafting the back, the first line to be drawn is the center back line. this serves as the backbone of the draft just as the center back is the backbone of the figure.
all other points in the draft must be located by ruling squared lines with great precision. mark a noticeable dot at the end of each drawn line.
2 and 3) these diagrams shows separate relative positions between the figure and the pattern of the back and front sections.
for the normal figure, only half of the pattern i needed, (from center back to center front).
for a noticeable difference between the left and right side of the figure, an entire front and back back pattern is required.
bodice front 3 waist darts
1) trace the front foundation; then square a line across at top of dart.
for the 3 darts, first trace part of the first dart, from a to a-1.
2) mark position for the top of the 3 darts 1” apart between a, b and c.
make the space at lower part of the first dart, between a-1 and a-2. 1/3 of the single dart in the front foundation.
3) complete the second and third dart (same size as first), making the space 3/4″ wide between each dart at waistline.
bodice back with neck dart
illustration shows waist dart omitted.
diagrams 4, 5 and 6 show how to eliminate the waist dart, and how to form the neck dart.
4) trace the back foundation; then eliminate the waist dart by reducing 1” at waistline to nothing at armhole near side seam. mark sections d and e.
5) bring sections d and e together; then draw new center back line, by adding 1/4″ at neck and reducing 1/2″ at waistline, as shown by dotted line.
6) make the neck dart 1/4″ wide and 3” long, 1-1/2” from center back.
bodice with 3 shoulders tucks
illustration shows 3 tucks at shoulder and no darts at the waistline.
the garment fits closely at the waistline and smoothly over the bust.
according to the design, the tucks may be made as inside or outside tucks. in appearance, both ways are decorative; in fitting value, both serve the same purpose.
1) use the front with the 3 waist darts as a guide; then mark positions for the 3 tucks as follows: first draw the center tuck line, from the center of shoulder to the middle dart; then draw a line 1” each side of the center line, and mark sections a-b-c-d.
2) cut out front; then slash along the 3 tuck lines. place front on another sheet of paper and close up the waist darts to spread section a-b-c-d evenly for the 3 shoulder tucks. pin to position.
3) trace front and mark shoulder tucks in dotted lines, making the left tuck 5” long, center tuck 4-3/4”, and the right, 4-1/2”.
4 and 5) cut out front in muslin and make the 3 shoulder tucks, as shown in the diagrams.
press tucks toward the center front.
as a rule, tuck lines are parallel to the center front, at lower part of tucks. use the front with the 3 waist darts as a guide: then mark positions for the 3 tucks as follows: first draw the center tuck line, from the center of shoulder to the middle of dart: then draw a line 1” each side of center line, and mark sections a-b-c-d
styles 2 fitted bodices
French fitted bodice
1) illustration show front and back view of french bodice.
2) trace fitted front and back, including the darts; then square a line across at lower part of armhole as shown by dotted line.
3) divide front into two parts as follows:
a to b – equals front shoulder
a to c – equals 1/2″ of shoulder
c to d – draw line from c to d at top of dart, divide back into two parts as follows:
e to f – equals a to c on front shoulder.
f to g – draw line from f to g at top of dart
h – center between f-g.
i to j – equals b to c on front shoulder.
j to h – connect.
for the plain grain lines, mark arrows on side sections by squaring from the bust line.
4) trace each section about 2” apart, eliminating the darts at the waistline and the dart at the back shoulder.
draw a curved line inside section of front at point d as shown by dotted line.
5) for the first fitting, add seams on the edges, as shown in the diagram. make corresponding notches as indicated.
use two single notches in front, one above the bust curve and one below.
when making a final pattern for a garment, allow seams also at neck, armhole and waistline.
6) this diagram shows fitting partly joined. first join the front sections, matching notches; then join seams of the back sections. join side seams and press all seams open, before joining shoulder seams.
bodice with low neckline
1) illustrations show seams in front and back running from waistline to armhole instead of to shoulder seam.
2) trace front and back foundation and shift position of darts as shown by dotted lines; then draw seam line from top of darts to armholes in front and back.
mark sections a, b, c and d.
3) lower the neckline in front and back to correspond with the neckline in the illustration.
the lower neckline at center back is usually dropped about 3/4″ of the drop at shoulder.
lower the waistline at center front, 1-1/2”, as illustrated.
4) trace sections a to d about 2” apart and round the corners as shown by dotted lines.
the grain lines, seam allowance and notches are to be made in the same manner as for the french fitted bodice.