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Basic Guide to Pattern Making  (E-Book) This pattern making E-book is for all those who love to sew but don’t know where to start. With this e-book youwilllearn how to take measurement correctly, learn how to make the basic foundation pattern, then move on to making any style in this book or using your own creative fashion knowledge you will go on to making style upon styles for yourself and your family, or this may be the start of a fashion career for you.. I know this E-book will be of great help to you in starting a career in patten making and fashion designing. And with your creative thinking you will be well on your way to becoming a top pattern maker and fashion designer……  Wear something you proudly Sew!!!!    basic guide to pattern making -INDEX

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MODERN PATTERN DESIGN THIS E-BOOK reveals the secrets of cutting smart patterns that professionals know will produce smart, graceful apparel. The pattern is the design for a garment. It is to the dress designer what the blue print is to the architect. Only well-cut garments have STYLE; and this style is achieved only through clever shaping, careful placing of the grain of the fabric, exaggeration of the silhouette at just the right point. As the pattern is, so the finished gown will be. TABLE OF CONTENTS

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How To Lengthen And Shorten A Dart

1. Measure directly up from the dart point the amount you wish to lengthen the dart. Mark the new dart point.
2. Draw new dart legs starting at the ends of the original darts and ending at the raised dart point
The broken lines in diagram shown represent the original darts; the solid lines, the new darts.

HOW MUCH?
Here is a guide for shortening designer’s darts to convert them into dressmaker’s darts. Keep in mind that “standards” may be meaningless when applied to individual requirements. Shorten the darts the amount that looks best and feels most comfortable.
Bodice: The front-waistline dart is shortened 1/2 inch from bustpoint height, * the back-waistline dart is shortened 1 inch from the shoulder-blade height.
The underarm dart is shortened 2 inches or more from the bust point. (This dart is generally at bust-point height. Should it be on a slight angle it must end at bust-point height no matter where it originates on the side seam.) Heavy-bosomed figures may bring the underarm dart closer to the bust point for additional shaping.
A front-shoulder dart is shortened 2 inches or more from the bust point. It too, may be brought closer to the bust point in heavy bosomed figures. The back-shoulder dart is usually stitched to a finished length of 3 inches.
The French underarm dart is an exception. It may be stitched to the bust point except in larger figures when it is shortened 1/2 inch or more.
Sleeve: The elbow dart is usually stitched to a finished length of 2 inches. * The terms “height” and “point” refer to the high point of the curve.
Only in very small or youthful figures and only in very form revealing
garments are darts stitched to the dart point. That would be asking too much of most figures.
Generally, in dressmaking and tailoring, the darts are shortened somewhat to give a sculptured, soft effect and a little more ease.
These shortened darts are called dressmaker’s darts.Designer’s darts are used in making a pattern. Dressmaker’s darts
are used in making a garment.
All darts in commercial patterns are shortened darts. Should you wish to relocate such a dart you would first have to extend it to the designer’s dart point.
All darts in the patterns you are creating are unshortened darts.For your final pattern, these will have to be shortened to dressmaker’s
darts.

HOW TO SHORTEN A DART
1. Measure down from the dart point the amount you wish to shorten the dart. Mark the new dart point in the center of the space.
2. Draw new dart legs starting at the ends of the original darts and ending at the lowered dart point. It is not the amount
of control you wish to change, merely the length of the dart

Skirt: The skirt-front dart is shortened 2 inches from the high point of the front hipbone.
The skirt-back dart is shortened 1 inch from the high point of the buttocks.
Frequently skirt darts fit better when un shortened (or shortened very little) so that the dart releases the greatest amount of material
where the figure is fullest.

Shapely Dart

Straight dart legs must always be equal in length, AB equals BC (Fig. a). If they are not, make them so. Wherever possible, balance the dart on grain to avoid puckering when stitched., When the dart legs are curved, one (AB) may be a little longer than the other (BC) (Fig. b). Ease AB into BC. Because of the angle, it is comparatively easy to “ease” a curve.
Straight dart legs ending just short of the high point (ADC-dressmaker’s dart)” provide ease in the bulge area (Fig. c). Dart legs stitched to the dart point remove the ease (ABC) (Fig. c).
When the dart legs are “bowed” for closer fit (as in an evening or cocktail dress), the ease is removed (Fig.d).

Drafting Turtle Neck

Turtle Neck Collar To draft the dropped shoulder Pattern, trace outline of dress Foundation with shoulders even At neck line. And 1” apart at Armhole. 1) For the dropped shoulder Outline, the draft as follows: A to B – 1-1/2”. C to D – 1/1/2”. B to C – Connect. B to E – Equals half of B to D. 2) B to G – 1-1/2” [square a line Down at B]. D to H – 1-1/2”. G to E – Connect. E to H – Connect. E to I –1/2”. G to H – Draw curved line Through 1.

Draw curved line at each Side of the underarm seam Above points G and H as Shown as dotted lines. For length of blouse, draw Lower line in front and Back 6” below waistline. For back closing overlap Add ¾” to center back. For diagonal side dart, Draw slash line in front, Then slash and close up Front dart as shown in diagram 1V. Draw V-shaped Dart 2” away from breast point. The waist darts in front And back are joined below Waistline only. 4) For armhole facing, place Shoulders together of front And back and trace outline Of armhole, making facing 1-1/2” wide as indicated. Add 2” hem at back opening: Then add seams to complete The pattern. Mark positions for button holes as shown.  

TURTLE-NECK COLLAR DRAFT I) Trace front: then draft Collar as follows: A to B – draw straight line. A to C – equals neck measure From center front To center back [about 7” for size 16]. 2) A to D – 2-3/8”, this equals 1” for stand plus 1-3/8” for turn back. 3) D to E – Equals line A to B. 4) E to C – Connect; then draw Curved line at point E. 5) Trace for double material collar. 6) Trace for entire collar; Then add seams. Collar has extra allowance For ease at neck edge. This Will allow the collar to Roll enough to cover neck Seam line.