The elbow dart control of a one-piece sleeve can be divided and shifted to the control seam of a two-piece sleeve.
1. Trace the sleeve sloper. Cut out the tracing and the dart.
Shift some of the dart control to the wrist to widen it (Fig. 81a).
2. Extend the elbow dart across the width of the sleeve (Fig.
81b). Fold it out.
Fasten temporarily
3. Draw a line dividing the sleeve in half from cap to elbow, from elbow to wrist (Fig. 81b).
4. Fold each side of the sleeve so the underarm seam touches the center line at the armhole and the wrist (Fig. 81c). Fasten with Scotch tape.
5. Locate new seam lines in the underarm section-l inch in from the fold at the armscye, 3/4 inch at the elbow, and 1/2 inch at the wrist (Fig. 81c). Notch the seam lines. The underarm section is generally one-third of the total width of the sleeve. Adjust the above measurements accordingly.
{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns -Adele P. Margolis
1. On the cut-out bodice-back sloper with the cut-out darts, draw
the style line for the yoke. Make it at right angles to the center back.
Notch the style line (Fig. 80a).
2. Extend the shoulder dart to the style line (Fig. 80a).
3. Slash the style line.
4. Cut out the extended dart and close it. Note that the dart
control is shifted to the control seam at the armhole (Fig. 80b).
5. Correct the shoulder line and the seam lines as necessary.
Consider using the dart control of the lower bodice as dart tucks or
gathers.
6. Complete the pattern.
{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns -Adele P. Margolis
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