If you have to stitch two or more sections of a garment together to form a complete front or back unit, why not make decorative use of the parts and the seaming that joins them? Use every trick in the bag: color (Fig. 78a), texture (78b), grain (Fig. 78c), topstitching (Fig. 78d), decorative applications (Fig. [...]

The contour belt is really a very narrow hip yoke. 1. Trace the upper portion of the skirt-front and skirt-back slopers. Straighten the side seams (Fig. 77a). 2. Close the front, back, and side darts. Correct the waistline with a curved line. Draw the style line (Fig. 77b), 3. Cut the yoke from the rest [...]

Here is a yoke that is cut only part way from the rest of the bodice. The pattern is all in one piece. The waistline dart control can be shifted all or in part to the partial yoke line. Like all dart control it may be used in this position as one dart, multiple darts, [...]

These are the essential tools used for stitching garments: Fabric-the designer's medium. Scissors-to cut fabric. Tape measure-to measure patterns and fabric. Thread-to stitch fabric. Pins-to pin patterns to fabric, and pin seams together in preparation for stitching. Seam ripper-to remove unwanted stitching. Thread clippers-to snip threads after stitching. Point turner-to get perfect angled corners on collars and cuffs. Buttonhole [...]

  The Importance of Fabric to the Designer The designer is a fabric sculptor. Design students need to become experts in fabric. Choosing a suitable fabric for the design is one of the most important aspects of the design process. Fabric selection and style development act in tandem. If an unsuitable fabric is chosen for [...]

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Variations of this type of yoke are understandably popular. They are a great way to emphasize a slim midriff and small waist while retaining the shaping of the upper bodice.  1. On a bulging-block bodice, draw the yoke style line* and notch it (Fig. 73a).  2. Cut away the yoke. Open the remaining dart control [...]

The yoke is a wonderful design device. Its seaming may conceal the dart control (Fig. 70a). Where there is no control it may simply divide a bodice or skirt into interesting areas (Fig. 70b). Often, it provides a smooth, trim area in contrast to fullness in an adjoining area (Fig.' 70c). It is a common [...]

From the Shoulder Since there are already two darts on the back bodice, there is no need to divide the waistline control. If there is a control seam on the front bodice, it is a fine point in design to make the back control seam match. Move the back shoulder dart as necessary. 1. On [...]

How to make the pattern for a control seam with divided control shoulder to waistline 1. On the cut-out bodice-front sloper with the cut-out dart, draw the style line from the shoulder to the dart point. Indicate the notches by cross lines on the style line-3 inches above and 3 inches below the dart point [...]