1) Press under 16" (40.5 cm) across the lower edge of the back, right sides together. If using tapes or zipper, snip the fold to mark ends of closure. Stitch 3/4" (2 cm) from the fold; backstitch at snips and bastestitch across the closure area.
Cut on fold; press seam open.

2a) Insert hook and loop` tape (a),snap tape (b) or zipper (c) according to instructions for sewing zipper here

2b) Cut back apart on 16" (40.5 cm) fold line for button closure. Press under W' (6 mm) then I" (2.5 cm) hem on each edge; stitch. On hem of shorter piece, make buttonholes 10" to 12" (25.5 to 30.5 cm) apart; attach buttons opposite buttonholes.

3) Pin cover front to cover back, right sides together. For button closure, pin the shorter piece first,lapping the longer piece over it.

4) Make tabs, Attach socket side of snaps to tabs,and ball sides to corners of the comforter. Pin a tab at each corner of the cover, edges even.

5) Stitch front and back of cover together with 1/2'' (1.3 cm) seam.
Diagonally trim bulk from comers.
Turn cover right side out. Insert comforter; snap cover to comforter at corners.

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

Change the look of a bed with a covered comforter.
It can replace a top sheet and blanket, and the removable cover of the comforter makes laundering easy. Sew your own comforter, or use a purchased one of down or of polyester batting.

Choose a washable, lightweight, firmly woven fabric for the cover. Sheets are good fabric choices because they do not require piecing. Seam decorator fabrics together by using a full fabric width in the center of the cover, with partial widths along the sides.

Leave a 36" (91.5cm) opening in the back-of the cover for inserting the comforter. Place the opening about 16" (40.5 cm) from the lower edge on the inside of the cover so it will not show at the ends.
Use snap tape, hook and loop tape, a zipper or buttons for closure.

Cutting Directions
Cut the front of the cover 1" (2.5 cm) larger than the comforter. Cut the back of the cover according to the closure method you choose. For button closures, add 5W' (14cm) to back length. For a snap tape, hook and loop or zipper closure, add 1W' (3.8 ern) to back length.
Cut four small fabric strips for tabs, each about 2"
(5 cm) square.

YOU WILL NEED
Decorator fabric or sheets for cover, and small amount of extra fabric for tabs.
Snap tape, hook and loop tape, zipper or buttons.
Gripper snaps to hold comforter in place.

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

Measure accurately to make a comforter and dust ruffle that fits the bed perfectly.

Comforters reach 3" to 4" (7.5 to 10 cm) below the mattress line. They have a drop length (the distance from the upper edge of the mattress to the bottom of the comforter) of 9" to 12" (23 to 30.5 em), depending on the depth of the mattress. Determine the drop length by measuring from the top of the mattress to the top of the box spring, then adding to that figure the amount of overlap desired. Take into account fabric stiffness which may cause the comforter to stand away from the side of the bed.

To determine finished comforter size, measure from side to side across the top of the mattress for width, and from the head to the foot of the bed for length. Add the desired drop length to the length of the bed, and twice the drop length to the width of the bed for finished measurements.

Batting for comforters is available in standard widths for. beds of standard sizes; select the proper size for your comforter.

For the finished dust ruffle length, measure from the top of the box spring to the floor; for the deck, measure the width and length of the box spring.

Pillow sizes are 20" x 26" (51 x 66 cm) standard; 20" x 30" (51 x 76 em) queen; and 20" x 40" (51 x 102 em) king. Pillow puffiness varies, however, so make the best-fitting shams by measuring the width and length of the pillow with a tape measure across the center of the pillow. Ruffled shams made from lightweight fabrics will droop around the edges if they are cut too large.

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

Custom-made bed fashions such as comforters, comforter covers, pillow shams and dust ruffles can be ruffled or tailored to suit the decor. Chintzes, polished cottons and sateens are good choices for most bed coverings. Sheets are another practical fabric choice; their width makes seaming unnecessary on comforters and covers.

Permanent press fabrics with soil-resistant finishes are advisable in a child's room. Select fabrics that will launder well without fading.

 Comforters are a useful alternative to bedspreads. Make them reversible to change their look, and fill them with polyester batting as flat or as puffy as you wish. Decorator fabrics used for comforters should be pieced together with a full fabric width in the center of the comforter and a partial width on each side.

Comforter covers, also known as duvet covers, are removable for easy care. They protect new comforters, salvage worn ones, and quickly change the look of a comforter. They also eliminate the need for a top sheet and blanket on the bed.

Pillow shams are removable, decorative pillow covers. Make pillow shams plain or flanged, ruffled or trimmed, in matching or contrasting fabrics to complement the comforter and dust ruffle. Traditional pillowcases may also be trimmed with ruffles and used as pillow shams.

Dust ruffles or bed skirts are used with comforters. They may be gathered or pleated. Make them in one piece for beds that do not have a footboard. Make them in three pieces for beds that do have a footboard. Attach dust ruffles to a fitted sheet placed over the box spring or to a muslin deck, a piece of fabric which fits between the mattress and the box spring.

Fabrics for dust ruffles should be considered for their weight and draping quality, as well as suitability for the style of the dust ruffle or bed skirt.

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

Cutting Directions

Cut napkins I" (2.5 cm) larger than finished size. One yard (meter) of 36" (91.5 cm) wide fabric yields four 17" (43 cm) napkins. A piece of fabric 45" (115 cm) square yields nine 14" (35.5 cm) napkins.

Satin stitch. Turn under 1/2" (1.3 cm) on all sides. Miter corners Edge stitch along raw edge to use as guide. Use wide, closely spaced zigzag to stitch from right side over edge stitching.

Zigzag over edge. Trim loose threads from napkin edges. Stitch over raw edge, using wide, closely spaced zigzag. Use over edge foot or special-purpose foot to maintain zigzag width.

Decorative stitch. Press under I/4'(6 mm) and stitch. From right side, stitch with a decorative stitch, using straight stitching as the guideline. Blanket stitch (shown above) gives a hemstitched look.

Narrow hem. Press under 1/4"(6 mm) double-fold hem on opposite sides of all napkins. Edge stitch from one napkin to the next using continuous stitching. Repeat for remaining sides.

Double-fold hem. Turn under 1/4' (6 mm) on all edges and press. Turn under another 1/4' (6 mm). Miter corners as directed for narrow hem. Edge stitch close to folded edge.

Fringe. Cut napkins on a pulled thread to straighten edges. Stitch 1/2' (1.3 cm) from raw edges with short straight stitches or narrow, closely spaced zigzag. Pull out threads up to the stitching line.

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)
 

Cutting Directions

Cut the place mat 1" (2.5 cm) larger than desired finished size (page 104). Press W' (1.3 cm) seam allowance to right side of place mat on all edges. Cut trimming long enough to go around edge of place mat, plus 1" (2.5 em). You will need approximately 61" (155 cm) own banding from fabric, allow 1/4" (6 mm) on each side for finishing. Press under 1/4" (6 mm) on long sides of banding.

How to Sew Place mats with Mitered Ribbon Trimming

1) Position short end of band W' (1.3 em) beyond edge of mat,aligning lengthwise edge of band with folded outer edge of the place mat; pin.

2) Fold trimming straight back at corner so fold is even with edge of mat. Fold trimming diagonally to form right angle; press and pin. Repeat at next two corners.

3) Fold end diagonally at first corner to form right angle; press.
Remove pins. Baste on diagonal fold lines, using pins or glue stick.

4) Stitch each corner of trim on diagonal fold line, stitching on wrong side and beginning at inner edge. Back stitch at beginning and end of seam to secure.

5) Adjust mat size or miters if necessary. Trim seam allowances of miters to 1/4" (6 mm); press seams open. Press under seam allowance that extends at one corner.

6) Baste trim to mat, with outer edges even. Stitch outer edge,beginning at one side and pivoting at corners; back stitch. Stitch inner edge.

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

Cutting Directions

Determine size of finished mat (page 104) and desired width of finished banding. Cut place mat center the size of finished mat minus two times the width of finished banding, plus 1/2' (1.3 cm).
For each mat, cut two centers. Stitch centers, wrong sides together, a scant 1/4' (6 mm) from raw edge.
Cut banding twice the finished width plus1/2' (1.3 cm); length the distance around outer edge of finished mat plus 1/2' (1.3 CM). Use 1/4" (6 mm) seams. Press under 1/4' (6 mm) on lengthwise edges.
Press in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.

How to Sew Banded Place mats with Mitered Corners

1) Mark beginning stitching point on band the width of finished band plus 1/4' (6 mm). Place mark 1/4' (6 mm) from comer of mat, raw edges even and right sides together.

2) Mark and pin band at adjacent comer 1/4' (6 mm) from edge. Pin between comers. Stitch on fold line from mark to mark; back stitch at ends to secure.

3) Fold band from mat diagonally.
Mark out from corner stitching the width of finished band. Fold at mark, right sides together. Mark 1/4" (6 mm) from comer of mat.

4) Repeat steps 2 and 3, above, for next two comers.

5) Measure width of finished band from stitching; mark. Mark and stitch as shown. Press seam open;
trim. Fold band to reverse side,forming miters.

6) Fold band diagonally to miter comers on reverse side. Pin folded edge of band to stitching line.
Slip stitch the mitered comers and edges of band in place.

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

Pre-quilted fabrics are available, but quilting your own fabric provides the luxury of coordinating colors , and prints, and the economy of making only the amount of quilted fabric needed for a project. The quilting guide foot with the attached guide bar makes the channel quilting process easy.

Lengthen the stitch length and loosen the pressure for even quilting. Begin by stitching the center quilting row,and work toward the sides.

Use polyester fleece or needle punched batting for tabletop fashions. It will retain its shape and body when laundered.

How to Machine Quilt Fabric Using a Quilter Bar

1) Cut fabric, fleece and lining slightly larger than finished size of item. Place fleece between wrong sides of fabric and lining. Pin or baste all three layers together.

2) Mark first quilting line in center of fabric with yardstick and chalk pencil. (If not using quilter bar, mark every quilting rowan equal distance apart.)

3) Stitch center line. Determine the distance to next quilting line: Adjust quilter bar to follow the previous row of stitching as you stitch the next row.

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

Cost:
• $4.99 Scarf
• $1.99 Pillow
You Will Need:
• 1 large scarf
• 1 medium sized throw pillow
Other supplies:
• Scrap pieces of construction paper or lightweight cardboard to draw templates
• Clear contact paper (available at office and home improvement stores)
• Double-sided tape
• Ruler or tape measure
• Scissors
• Pencil
Instructions:
Step 1: Hand wash scarf and air dry. Lightly iron scarf if needed.
Step 2: Lay scarf fl at on table or floor, then place pillow on the scarf so pillow edges are perpendicular to
scarf edges (see image).
Step 4: Tie together two opposite ends of the scarf across the length of the pillow.
Step 5: Tie remaining ends of scarf together.
Step 6: Pull ends from the first knot out and fluff pillow.

project from: http://www.savers.com/

For center of flounced-edge tablecloth, subtract two times the finished depth of the flounce from the famished length of the tablecloth. Determine yardage for center as for tablecloth above.

Determine the flounce length by multiplying diameter of center by 3-1/2” double this figure. For number of strips, divide flounce length by fabric width. Then multiply number of strips by cut depth and divide by 36 for total yards (meters).

Cutting Directions

For tablecloth without a flounce, cut center panel with length equal to tablecloth diameter plus hems.

Add partial panels to form square. For tablecloth with flounce, cut center panel with length equal to the diameter of center plus seam allowances. Add partial panels to form square. Cut strips for flounce the depth of flounce, plus hem and seam allowances and length as determined above.

Cutting Round Tablecloths.

1) Join fabric panels, right sides together, with ½” (1.3 cm) seams to form square. Fold square into fourths. Pin layers together to prevent slipping.

2) Measure a string the length of the radius of the cloth. Tie one end of string around a marking pencil; pin other end at center folded corner of cloth. Mark outer edge of circle, using string and pencil as compass. Cut on marked line; remove pins.

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)