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PATTERN MAKING E-BOOKS

Basic Guide to Pattern Making  (E-Book) This pattern making E-book is for all those who love to sew but don’t know where to start. With this e-book you will learn how to take measurement correctly, learn how to make the basic foundation pattern, then move on to making any style in this book or using your own creative fashion knowledge you will go on to making style upon styles for yourself and your family, or this may be the start of a fashion career for you.. I know this E-book will be of great help to you in starting a career in patten making and fashion designing. And with your creative thinking you will be well on your way to becoming a top pattern maker and fashion designer……  Wear something you proudly Sew!!!!  basic guide to pattern making -INDEX

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MODERN PATTERN DESIGN THIS E-BOOK reveals the secrets of cutting smart patterns that professionals know will produce smart, graceful apparel. The pattern is the design for a garment. It is to the dress designer what the blue print is to the architect. Only well-cut garments have STYLE; and this style is achieved only through clever shaping, careful placing of the grain of the fabric, exaggeration of the silhouette at just the right point. As the pattern is, so the finished gown will be. TABLE OF CONTENTS

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1 – Center back at neck.
2 – Center back at waistline.
3 – Shoulder seam at armhole.
4 – Shoulder seam at neck.
5 – Side seam at armhole.
6 – Side seam at waistline.
(2)
7 – Center front at neck.
8 – Center front at waistline.
Use a standard tape measure to take all the measurements on the figure; use the tailor’s square or triangle to draft the pattern. When taking the front and back measurements (from side to side at bust line) have the person take a deep breath. This will provide the fitted waist with the necessary ease allowance around bust. For example: a size 16 model measures 34” around bust, but after taking a deep breath she will measure between 36” to 36-1/2”. All dress forms have the chest expansion allowance. Therefore the fitted waist pattern should include the chest expansion allowance or else the side seams will tend to rip.
Illustration above shows the relative positions between the figure and the waist pattern. It also illustrates some of the important corresponding points at waistline, neck and armhole depth, as follows:

waistline – according to the present style trend, the waistline slopes at a slight angle, making the waistline 1/2” lower at center front, and 1/4” lower at side seam than at center back, as indicated at points a, b and c.
neck – the posture of the figure brings the back of neck, point d, about 2” higher than front of neck point e, (measuring from the floor level).
armhole depth – point f at armhole is located about 1” below the armpit of the human figure. this applies to a dress with or without sleeves.
shoulder slope – the normal slope of the shoulder brings the point at armhole about 2” lower than at neck.
waist darts – the darts in front and back give the garment a smooth and close fit at the waistline.

the use of the tailor’s square
1) diagram shows important construction lines in the draft of the back. it demonstrates the use of the square in miniature forms.
when drafting the back, the first line to be drawn is the center back line. this serves as the backbone of the draft just as the center back is the backbone of the figure.
all other points in the draft must be located by ruling squared lines with great precision. mark a noticeable dot at the end of each drawn line.
2 and 3) these diagrams shows separate relative positions between the figure and the pattern of the back and front sections.
for the normal figure, only half of the pattern i needed, (from center back to center front).
for a noticeable difference between the left and right side of the figure, an entire front and back back pattern is required.

bodice front 3 waist darts
1) trace the front foundation; then square a line across at top of dart.
for the 3 darts, first trace part of the first dart, from a to a-1.
2) mark position for the top of the 3 darts 1” apart between a, b and c.
make the space at lower part of the first dart, between a-1 and a-2. 1/3 of the single dart in the front foundation.
3) complete the second and third dart (same size as first), making the space 3/4″ wide between each dart at waistline.
bodice back with neck dart
illustration shows waist dart omitted.
diagrams 4, 5 and 6 show how to eliminate the waist dart, and how to form the neck dart.
4) trace the back foundation; then eliminate the waist dart by reducing 1” at waistline to nothing at armhole near side seam. mark sections d and e.
5) bring sections d and e together; then draw new center back line, by adding 1/4″ at neck and reducing 1/2″ at waistline, as shown by dotted line.
6) make the neck dart 1/4″ wide and 3” long, 1-1/2” from center back.
 

bodice with 3 shoulders tucks
illustration shows 3 tucks at shoulder and no darts at the waistline.
the garment fits closely at the waistline and smoothly over the bust.
according to the design, the tucks may be made as inside or outside tucks. in appearance, both ways are decorative; in fitting value, both serve the same purpose.
1) use the front with the 3 waist darts as a guide; then mark positions for the 3 tucks as follows: first draw the center tuck line, from the center of shoulder to the middle dart; then draw a line 1” each side of the center line, and mark sections a-b-c-d.
2) cut out front; then slash along the 3 tuck lines. place front on another sheet of paper and close up the waist darts to spread section a-b-c-d evenly for the 3 shoulder tucks. pin to position.
3) trace front and mark shoulder tucks in dotted lines, making the left tuck 5” long, center tuck 4-3/4”, and the right, 4-1/2”.
4 and 5) cut out front in muslin and make the 3 shoulder tucks, as shown in the diagrams.
press tucks toward the center front.
as a rule, tuck lines are parallel to the center front, at lower part of tucks. use the front with the 3 waist darts as a guide: then mark positions for the 3 tucks as follows: first draw the center tuck line, from the center of shoulder to the middle of dart: then draw a line 1” each side of center line, and mark sections a-b-c-d

styles 2 fitted bodices
French fitted bodice
1) illustration show front and back view of french bodice.
2) trace fitted front and back, including the darts; then square a line across at lower part of armhole as shown by dotted line.
3) divide front into two parts as follows:
a to b – equals front shoulder
a to c – equals 1/2″ of shoulder
c to d – draw line from c to d at top of dart, divide back into two parts as follows:
e to f – equals a to c on front shoulder.
f to g – draw line from f to g at top of dart
h – center between f-g.
i to j – equals b to c on front shoulder.
j to h – connect.
for the plain grain lines, mark arrows on side sections by squaring from the bust line.
4) trace each section about 2” apart, eliminating the darts at the waistline and the dart at the back shoulder.
draw a curved line inside section of front at point d as shown by dotted line.
5) for the first fitting, add seams on the edges, as shown in the diagram. make corresponding notches as indicated.
use two single notches in front, one above the bust curve and one below.
when making a final pattern for a garment, allow seams also at neck, armhole and waistline.
6) this diagram shows fitting partly joined. first join the front sections, matching notches; then join seams of the back sections. join side seams and press all seams open, before joining shoulder seams.
 
bodice with low neckline
1) illustrations show seams in front and back running from waistline to armhole instead of to shoulder seam.
2) trace front and back foundation and shift position of darts as shown by dotted lines; then draw seam line from top of darts to armholes in front and back.
mark sections a, b, c and d.
3) lower the neckline in front and back to correspond with the neckline in the illustration.
the lower neckline at center back is usually dropped about 3/4″ of the drop at shoulder.
lower the waistline at center front, 1-1/2”, as illustrated.
4) trace sections a to d about 2” apart and round the corners as shown by dotted lines.
the grain lines, seam allowance and notches are to be made in the same manner as for the french fitted bodice.

The illustration show how to take the necessary arm measurements for drafting the dress sleeve pattern For sleeve pattern measurements in junior and misses sizes, see chart below. No seams are allowed.
The measurements include about 3” ease allowance around arm (at muscle), and the necessary ease around elbow and wrist.

1) a to b – equals overarm length measurement. draw straight line from a to b.
b to c – equals underarm length measurement. mark point c on line a-b (a to c equals cap height or 1/3 of armhole circumference. for example: if armhole of bodice measures 19-1/2”. cap height is 6-1/2”).
c to d – equals half of arm circumference measurement. square this line across at point c.
c to e – same amount as c to d. square across at c.
2)
b to f – equals half of b to c. mark point f on line a-b for elbow line position.
f to g – equals half of elbow measurement. square this line across at point f.
f to h – same amount as f to g. square across at f.

b to i – equals f to g, less 1”. square across at point b.
b to j – same amount as b to i. square across at point b.
i to k – draw line from i to k through h and e, bringing point l to the level of point a. connect k to l.
4. (guide lines for sleeve cap)
a to m – equals 1/4 of a to k.
d to n – equals 1/4 of d to c. connect m to n.
m to o – equal 1/2 of m to n. mark point o on line m-n.
a to p – equals 1/4 of a to l.
e to q – equals 1/6 of e to c. connect p to q.
p to r – equals 1/2 of p to q. mark point r on line p-q.

a to d – draw curved cap line from a to d through q for front as sleeve cap as indicated.
a to e – draw curved line from a to e through r for back of sleeve cap.
i to s – equals wrist measure. mark point s on line i-j.
s to t – 3/4″. square a line down at point s.
i to u – equals half of i to b.
u to t – connect; then draw curved from t to i.
6. (v-shaped elbow dart).
the back edge of sleeve, from e to h to t, is 1-1/4” longer than front edge, from d to g to i. make v-shaped dart 1-1/4” wide and 3-1/2” long at elbow as indicated, making upper line of dart, parallel to elbow line.
 

square a line across at k, indefinite length [about 2”]. to complete the front draft, slash from l to m, and cut out the waist dart from n to m and o to m; then pivoting at point m, swing front, so that point p touches the squared line, near point k as shown in diagram 3.
completing the waist dart
connect p to j; then complete the waist dart in front as follows:
h to q – equals space, l to m
n to q – connect.
o to q – connect.
make dart in back below waistline in same manner as in front. this completes the draft of the ‘chest slant’ dress foundation. no seams are allowed. see directions below for making the ‘shoulder dart’ or the ‘side dart’ dress foundation.

how to draft the  shoulder dart front
(1 and 2) the method of drafting this front is similar to the draft of the ‘chest slant’ foundation, with on exception, that instead of slashing from center front shoulder to breast point [l to m], you slash from center of shoulder to breast point l to m and pivot front at point m so that point p touches the squared line near point k, as shown in diagram 2. connect p to j and make the waist dart. (3) to complete the front, draw v-shaped dart from shoulder seam to about 2” above breast point. add 1/2″ to length at center front, to nothing at side seam. (4) cut out front in muslin; then make the shoulder and waist darts. try muslin fitting on dress form.

how to draft the side dart front
(1 and 2) repeat method of drafting the front foundations, but for the side dart; slash from side seam to breast point l to m, and swing lower side part of front [pivoting at point m], so that point p will touch the squared line near point k, as shown in diagram 2. to complete the foundation, connect p to j, and then make the dart below waistline. (3) draw v-shaped dart from side seam to about 2” from breast point. lengthen center front 1/2″, to nothing at side seam  (4) make muslin fitting and try on dress form.

The pattern measurements and drafts shown below, are for the dress bodice and sleeve for junior petite – size 7, and for teen size 12. junior petite pattern are proportionately designed for the fully developed figure, about 5 ft tall. teen size patterns are designed for the fairly developed  figure, measuring about 5 ft. 3” tall.

Draft of dress bodice pattern the draft above includes ease allowance around
bust, and about 1” around waistline. draft front and back according to the measurements listed to the left, and use the draft directions given in junior’s, misses’ and women’s
but make the following changes: draw line for front side seam, 3/4″ away  from back side seam at waistline (point bb), to nothing at armhole (m) as indicated.

front with side dart
1 and 2 – slash on dotted line (a to b) and spread, making the width of side and waist darts alike, as shown by dotted lines. 3 – for closer fit (just below the bust), make the waist dart 1/2″ wider (4” above the waistline), as indicated. back with shoulder dart
4 and 5 – instead of 1/4″ ease at shoulder seam, make 1/2″ wide dart, 3” long at center of shoulder seam; then add 1/4″ to shoulder at armhole as shown by dotted lines. make the waist dart, 1” shorter at tap. how to draft pattern draft sleeve according to the measurements listed to the left, and use the draft directions given in junior’s misses’ and woman-(dress s leeve) but make the following changes  in diagram 4:
a to m – 1/3 of a to k,
a to p – 1/3 of a to l,
length of elbow dart, 3-1/4”.
the measurements include the necessary ease allowance around arm (at muscle), elbow and wrist.

The illustrations above show how to take the following arm measurements:
1. Underarm length – from armhole to wrist.
2. Arm circumference – a little below armhole.
3. Elbow circumference – with arm bent up.
4. Over arm length – from shoulder to wrist.
5. Wrist circumference – a loose measurement.

how to draft the sleeve foundation sizes 12 to 20
the sleeve draft provides for a 2”, minimum ease allowance around the arm at muscle.
for example: if arm measurement is 11” for size 16
make sleeve pattern 13” wide, or 6-1/2” from d to e.
when drafting the sleeve, line a-b should be directly in center of draft
2. guide links for sleeve cap
 k to n – equals 1/2 of line k-m
d to r – equals 1/2 of d-c.
k to o – equals 1/4 of line k to m
m to s – equals 1/2 of  m-e, less 1/2″.
m to p – equals 1/4 of line k-m
c to t – 1”
k to q – equals 1/2 of k-d.
draw the guide lines from o to q to r for front of sleeve;
for back of sleeve, from p to s to t.

sleeve cap
for top of cap, draw a curved line from s to n to q; for bottom of cap. from q to a to s

3. shaping the sleeve
shape the draft of sleeve as follows:
j to u – 1/2″. 
u to g – connect 
u to v – equals 1/2 of wrist measure. draw this line 3-1/2” long for size 16, with 1/8” grade for each size, bringing point
v, about 3/4″ below line j-l.
v to h – connect.
v to w – equals 1/2 of line u to v.
w to f – connect.
4) to complete the sleeve, fold drafting paper on line q-g, and trace from q to a to f; then open paper and fold again
on line g-u, and trace from f to w to u.
5 and 6) repeat process for tracing back of  sleeve as,  then convert the extra length  at elbow [about  1-1/4”] by making a v- shaped dart about 3”  long for size 16 [with  1/8” grade for each  size]. to complete  sleeve pattern, allow  seams.
one piece shaped sleeve with 3 elbow darts
the feature of this sleeve is that it is slightly  more shaped than the sleeve with the single  elbow dart. 1) for the 3 elbow darts, add 1” to  back edge of sleeve by slashing along the  elbow line, from back to front, and spreading  1” at elbow. 2) plan the 3 darts by first  drafting the center dart, 3/4″ x 2-1/2”. then  draft the other 2 darts, one above, and the  other below the center dart,

BACK

Front

The illustration below indicates where each body measurement is taken on the figure.
the measurement 4 and 6 on the back, and 9 and 10 on the front, are taken from side seam. the measurements 2 and 8 are taken from armhole to armhole. for a figure with prominent bust, take an additional measurement over fullest part of bust, about 2” below the ‘full front width’ measurement, and if this measurement is greater, adjust front pattern as follows: cut out dart, then slash from p to s [2” from n] and spread needed amount at p, pivoting at s. [this also reduces armhole slightly].

1. CENTER BACK LENGTH
A to B – From neck to waist. Draw this line for center back line.

2. ACROSS BACK
A to C – Equals 1/4″ of line A-B.
C to D – Equals half of width across back. Square a line across C to D; then extend line about 3”.

3. BACK SHOULDER HEIGHT
B to E – Equals length from waist to shoulder at neck. Tape is parallel in center back line.
Extend center back line up above A.

4. BACK BODY WIDTH
E to F – Equals half of back plus 1/4″ ease allowance. Square a line across E to F.
F to G – Square a line down from F to line C-D.

5. BACK SHOULDER SLOPE
B to H – Square a line across at B.
H to I – Draw a line from H to I. marking point I somewhere on line F-G for shoulder slope.

6. BACK SHOULDER SEAM
I to J – Equals shoulder, plus 1/4″ ease allowance. Locate J somewhere on line E-F. Then draw shoulder line.
J to A – Draw a curved line for back of neck.

7.FULL BACK WIDTH
B to K – Extend line down 1/4″.
K to L – Equals half of back, measuring to side seam at armhole.
Square a line across from center back line at K.
L to M – Square a line up from L to line C-D.

8.SIDE WAIST DEPTH
A to N – Draw a line from A to N. Locating point N somewhere on line K-L for side waist depth.

9. SIDE SEAM LENGTH
N to O – Draw side seam line.
O to P – Square a line across from O to center back
Q to D – Square a line up from Q to D.
Q to R – Draw a diagonal line.
I to O – Draw the armhole from I to D to R to O.

10. BACK WAISTLINE
N to H – Connect for waistline
S to L – Square a line up to T. For dart, reduce required amount each side of S, to nothing at T.