How to Grade Blouse Sleeve
how to draft the sleeve 1 and 2 using the dress sleeve foundation, take out the elbow dart by making a tuck in back of sleeve to nothing in front; then draw straight lines from elbow to wrist at each side as indicated. 3) to allow for gathers at bottom, divide sleeve into 4 equal parts. mark sections a to d; then slash along dotted lines and spread as shown in diagram 4. 4) shorten sleeve as follows: 2” at each side; 2-1/2” at front slash; 1-1/2” at back slash at which point draw a slash line 2” long for back opening. 5) make a facing 1” longer than sleeve opening, and 2-1/2” wide. 6)make the french cuff 2-1/4” x 8-1/2” (for size 16). for the double cuff make the turn back 2-1/2” wide. add seams in sleeve and cuff.
grading size 16 to 18 chart shows where and how much pattern is graded from one size to another. use method of grading by shifting pattern, step-by-step, as shown on pattern grading page (grading (misses size 16 to 18) the grade is based on an increase of 1-1/2” around bust instead of 2”, which means 3/8” grade from center front to side seam, etc.
grading chart below is a chart of graded sizes, 12 to 20, showing the 5 graded sizes of the pattern pieces, as well as the dress form in the 5 sizes.cutting layout cutting diagram shows how to lay pattern pieces on35″ fabric. the yoke and cuffs are laid crosswise. the collar sections are laid lengthwise at front edge to avoid stretching. the facings for collar and cuff are shown in dotted lines.