Six ways to make and hem napkins

Six ways to make and hem napkins-1Coordinating napkins are the finishing touch to your tabletop fashions. Standard finished napkins are 14″ or 17″ (33.5 or 43 cm) square. Before cutting the fabric, square the ends, using a carpenter’s square.

For fringed napkins, square the ends by pulling a thread.

Napkin hems can be decorative. Experiment with some of the decorative stitches on your sewing machine. The hemming techniques shown here can also be used on tablecloths and place mats.

 
Cutting Directions

Six ways to make and hem napkins-2Cut napkins I” (2.5 cm) larger than finished size. One yard (meter) of 36″ (91.5 cm) wide fabric yields four 17″ (43 cm) napkins. A piece of fabric 45″ (115 cm) square yields nine 14″ (35.5 cm) napkins.

Satin stitch. Turn under 1/2″ (1.3 cm) on all sides. Miter corners Edge stitch along raw edge to use as guide. Use wide, closely spaced zigzag to stitch from right side over edge stitching.

Zigzag over edge. Trim loose threads from napkin edges. Stitch over raw edge, using wide, closely spaced zigzag. Use over edge foot or special-purpose foot to maintain zigzag width.

Decorative stitch. Press under I/4′(6 mm) and stitch. From right side, stitch with a decorative stitch, using straight stitching as the guideline. Blanket stitch (shown above) gives a hemstitched look.

 

 

Six ways to make and hem napkins-3

 

 

 

 

Narrow hem. Press under 1/4″(6 mm) double-fold hem on opposite sides of all napkins. Edge stitch from one napkin to the next using continuous stitching. Repeat for remaining sides.

Double-fold hem. Turn under 1/4′ (6 mm) on all edges and press. Turn under another 1/4′ (6 mm). Miter corners as directed for narrow hem. Edge stitch close to folded edge.

Six ways to make and hem napkins-4

 

 

 

 

Fringe. Cut napkins on a pulled thread to straighten edges. Stitch 1/2′ (1.3 cm) from raw edges with short straight stitches or narrow, closely spaced zigzag. Pull out threads up to the stitching line.
{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

Trimmed Placemats

Trimmed Placemats-1Trimmed place mats have banding stitched to one side. Purchase finished trim or cut trim from fabric.

Cutting Directions

Cut the place mat 1″ (2.5 cm) larger than desired finished size (page 104). Press W’ (1.3 cm) seam allowance to right side of place mat on all edges. Cut trimming long enough to go around edge of place mat, plus 1″ (2.5 em). You will need approximately 61″ (155 cm) own banding from fabric, allow 1/4″ (6 mm) on each side for finishing. Press under 1/4″ (6 mm) on long sides of banding.

 

 

How to Sew Place mats with Mitered Ribbon Trimming

Trimmed Placemats-2

1) Position short end of band W’ (1.3 em) beyond edge of mat,aligning lengthwise edge of band with folded outer edge of the place mat; pin.

2) Fold trimming straight back at corner so fold is even with edge of mat. Fold trimming diagonally to form right angle; press and pin. Repeat at next two corners.

3) Fold end diagonally at first corner to form right angle; press.

Remove pins. Baste on diagonal fold lines, using pins or glue stick.
Trimmed Placemats-3

4) Stitch each corner of trim on diagonal fold line, stitching on wrong side and beginning at inner edge. Back stitch at beginning and end of seam to secure.

5) Adjust mat size or miters if necessary. Trim seam allowances of miters to 1/4″ (6 mm); press seams open. Press under seam allowance that extends at one corner.

6) Baste trim to mat, with outer edges even. Stitch outer edge,beginning at one side and pivoting at corners; back stitch. Stitch inner edge.

 

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

Banded Placemats

Wide double banding creates reversible place mat.

Cutting Directions

Banded Placemats-1Determine size of finished mat (page 104) and desired width of finished banding. Cut place mat center the size of finished mat minus two times the width of finished banding, plus 1/2′ (1.3 cm).

For each mat, cut two centers. Stitch centers, wrong sides together, a scant 1/4′ (6 mm) from raw edge.

Cut banding twice the finished width plus1/2′ (1.3 cm); length the distance around outer edge of finished mat plus 1/2′ (1.3 CM). Use 1/4″ (6 mm) seams. Press under 1/4′ (6 mm) on lengthwise edges.

Press in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.

How to Sew Banded Place mats with Mitered Corners

1) Mark beginning stitching point on band the width of finished band plus 1/4′ (6 mm). Place mark 1/4′ (6 mm) from comer of mat, raw edges even and right sides together.

2) Mark and pin band at adjacent comer 1/4′ (6 mm) from edge. Pin between comers. Stitch on fold line from mark to mark; back stitch at ends to secure.

3) Fold band from mat diagonally.

Mark out from corner stitching the width of finished band. Fold at mark, right sides together. Mark 1/4″ (6 mm) from comer of mat.

Banded Placemats-24) Repeat steps 2 and 3, above, for next two comers.

5) Measure width of finished band from stitching; mark. Mark and stitch as shown. Press seam open;

trim. Fold band to reverse side,forming miters.

6) Fold band diagonally to miter comers on reverse side. Pin folded edge of band to stitching line.

Slip stitch the mitered comers and edges of band in place.

Banded Placemats-3

 

 

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

A CONTROL SEAM FOR THE BACK BODICE

From the Shoulder

Since there are already two darts on the back bodice, there is no need to divide the waistline control. If there is a control seam on the front bodice, it is a fine point in design to make the back control

seam match. Move the back shoulder dart as necessary.

1. On the cut-out bodice-back sloper with the cut-out dart, connect the shoulder dart with the waistline dart. Place notch marks . . .

How to make the pattern for a control seam

How to make the pattern for a control seam with divided control shoulder to waistline

1. On the cut-out bodice-front sloper with the cut-out dart, draw the style line from the shoulder to the dart point. Indicate the notches by cross lines on the style line-3 inches above and 3 inches below

the dart point (opposite each other on the dart legs . . .

Tooth Fairy Doll Crochet Pattern

Tooth Fairy Doll Crochet Pattern-1Start a new tradition—instead of leaving a child’s tooth under the pillow, put it in this tooth fairy’s little pouch. It makes the tooth fairy’s job so much easier.

Designed By:    Michele Wilcox

Supplies: RED HEART® “Soft Yarn®”: 1 ball each of 4601 Off White A, 4422 Tangerine B, 9528 Lilac C, 6768 Pink D, and 2515 Turquoise E.

Crochet Hook: 3.75mm [US F-5] and 3.25mm [US D-3] (for tooth necklace only)

Yarn needle, stitch marker, 2 pearls (for earrings), small amounts of black and red pearl cotton (for facial features), red crayon (for coloring cheeks), stuffing.

Size: Doll measures 16” tall.

Gauge/Tension: GAUGE: 19 sts = 4”; 20 rows = 4” in single crochet using larger hook. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.

Special Stitch

sc2tog = [Draw up a loop in next st] twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

NOTE

To change color, work last stitch of old color to last yarn over. Yarn over with new color and draw through all loops on hook to complete stitch. Proceed with new color. Fasten off old color.

TOOTH NECKLACE

With smaller hook and D, ch 5.

Round 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, 3 sc in last ch; working across opposite side of foundation ch, sc in next 2 ch, 2 sc in last ch—10 sc. Do not join, work in continuous rounds (spirals). Place a marker for beginning of round. Move marker up as each round is completed.

Rounds 2–5: Sc in each sc around.

Handle: Ch 45, slip st in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, slip st in 4 sc across top of tooth pocket, slip st into 45th ch. FaSTen OFF.

FRONT OF DOLL

Head

With larger hook and A, ch 10.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—9 sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc across, turn—18 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, [sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 3 times, turn—21 sc.

Rows 5–15: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 16: Ch 1, [sc in next 5 sc, sc2tog] 3 times, turn—18 sc.

Row 17: Ch 1, *sc2tog; repeat from * across, turn—9 sc.

Row 18: Ch 1, sc in each sc across; change to E in last sc, turn.

Body

Row 19: With E, ch 1, 2 sc in each sc across, turn—18 sc.

Row 20: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 21: Ch 1, *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * across, turn—24 sc.

Row 22: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 23: Ch 1, *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * across, turn—30 sc.

Rows 24–41: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 42: Ch 1, *sc in next 3 sc, sc2tog; repeat from * across, turn—24 sc.

Row 43: Ch 1, *sc in next 2 sc, sc2tog; repeat from * across, turn—18 sc. Fasten off

BACK OF DOLL

Work same as front of doll, using A for head (Rows 1–18) and E for body (Rows 19–43).

Sew front to back, stuffing before sewing closed.

 

Headband

With E, ch 41.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—40 sc.

Rows 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, working in front loops only, slip st in each sc across (for front edge of headband). Fasten off.

Ponytail Curls (Make 11) With B, ch 12.

Row 1: Work 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each

remaining ch across—22 sc. Fasten off.

Curls for Bangs (Make 3) With B, ch 7.

Row 1: Work 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across—12 sc. Fasten off.

Sew bangs, grouped together, on center front of head.

Wrap headband around head, covering sewn ends of bangs, and sew in place. Sew ponytail curls, grouped together, on top of head.

Flower (for Headband)

With D, ch 5; join with slip st in first ch to form a ring.

Round 1: Work 12 sc in ring—12 sc. Do not join.

Round 2: Working in front loops only, (slip st, ch 1, hdc) in first sc, hdc in next sc, *ch 1, (slip st, ch 1, hdc) in next sc, hdc in next sc; repeat from * around—6 petals.

Round 3: Gently push petals forward and work in the unworked back loops of Round 1; (slip st, ch 1, dc) in back loop of first sc, dc in next back loop, *ch 1, (slip st, ch 1, dc) in next back loop, dc in next back loop; repeat from *

around, slip st in first slip st. Fasten off.

Sew flower onto headband, at side of head.

 

Skirt Ruffle

With C, ch 60.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—59 sc.

Row 2 (Right Side): Ch 4 (counts as tr), working in front loops only, 2 tr in first sc, 3 tr in each remaining ch across—177 tr. Fasten off.

Skirt

With Right Side of skirt ruffle facing, join D with slip st in first unworked back loop of Row 1.

Row 1: Ch 4 (counts as tr), 2 tr in same back loop as join, working in remaining unworked back loops of skirt ruffle Row 1, 3 tr in each back loop across, turn—177 tr.

Rows 2–4: Ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. Fasten off.

Leg (Make 2)

Beginning at foot, with A, ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 ch, 3 sc in last ch; working across opposite side of foundation ch, sc in next 4 ch, 2 sc in last ch, turn—14 sc.

Rows 2–8: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn; change to E in last sc of Row 8.

Rows 9 and 10: With E, sc in each sc across, turn;

change to D in last sc of Row 10.

Rows 11 and 12: With D, sc in each sc across, turn;

change to E in last sc of Row 12.

Rows 13–28: Repeat Rows 9–12 four times.

Rows 29 and 30: Repeat Rows 9 and 10.

Fasten off. Sew side edges together to form tube. Stuff leg as you sew.

Toes

Join A with slip st to inner side (seamed side) of front of foot.

Row 1: Ch 1, 2 hdc in same space as join (big toe), work [slip st, ch 1, 2 sc (for toe)] 4 times evenly spaced across bottom of foot. Fasten off.

Sew top of legs closed and sew to bottom of body, placing leg seams to inside of leg.

Arm (Make 2)

Beginning at hand, with A, ch 2.

Row 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, turn—6 sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat from * across, turn—9 sc.

Rows 3–17: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn; change to E in last sc of Row 17.

Row 18: With E, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 19: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc across, turn—18 sc.

Row 20 (Ruffle): Ch 1, *Slip st in next sc, ch 2, skip next sc; repeat from * across. Fasten off. Sew side edges together to form tube. Stuff arm as you sew. Fold Row 20 ruffle to outside of arm and sew arms to side of body.

Top Wing (Make 2)

With A, ch 10.

Row 1 (Right Side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 3 ch, 6 dc in last ch; working across opposite side of foundation ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in next 2 ch, turn—22 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first 9 sts, 2 sc in each of next 4 sts, sc in last 9 sts, turn—26 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first 11 sc, 2 hdc in next 4 sc, sc in last 11 sc, turn—30 sts. Fasten off A.

Row 4: With Right Side facing, join C with slip st in back loop of first st of Row 3, working in back loops only, *ch 2, skip next sc, slip st in next sc; repeat from * across to last sc, slip st in last sc. Fasten off.

Bottom Wing (Make 2)

Work same as top wing through Row 2. Fasten off A.

Row 3: Work Row 4 of top wing. Fasten off.

Sew wings in place on back of doll. Sew bottom wings first, then sew the top wings overlapping the bottom wings slightly.

Ear (Make 2)

With A, ch 2.

Row 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, turn.

Row 2 (Right Side): Ch 1, slip st in each sc across.

Fasten off. Sew one pearl on each ear. Sew one ear to each side of head, in front of headband.

FINISHING

Weave in ends.

Embroider Face With small amount of black pearl cotton, embroider French Knot eyes and straight stitch eyebrows. With small amount of red pearl cotton, embroider back stitch mouth. With red crayon, gently rub color onto face for cheeks. Place tooth necklace around neck.
ABBREVIATIONS: A, B, C, D, and E = Color a, B, C, D,

and e; ch = chain; dc = double crochet; hdc = half double

crochet; sc = single crochet; st(s) = stitch(es); tr = treble

crochet; [ ] = work directions in brackets the number

of times specified; * = repeat whatever follows the * as

indicated.

How to Sew a Lined Apron

By: Louise Papas of  lululollylegs.blogspot.com
Follow this tutorial to create an easy, lined half-apron for just about anyone, children or adults. This apron .

For both options, trim the seams and clip the corners (Pic 4 & 5). Turn right side out and press the bottom seam allowance up inside the pocket (Pic 6). Press whole pocket (Pic 7).

features a contrast lining, a handy pocket, gathering and a waistband. Sew this apron for a gift, along with a cookbook.

The Basics Measurements: these are fairly loose and can depend on how much fabric you have and the size of the person. I know that sounds vague but really, as it ties up it can fit lots of different sizes. I have written metric measurements. You need to cut 1 skirt, 1 skirt lining, 1 waistband, 1 pocket, 1 pocket lining and 2 ties and 2 tie lining.

For the skirt and skirt lining: Length: Measure from the waist to the desired length. I don’t like these aprons to be too long – just above the knee should be perfect. Width: Measure from one side of the backaround to the other side of the back so that you leave a gap for the bow to sit. You don’t want it to cross over at all or the apron will be too big and won’t tie properly.

You then need to add extra to the skirt width to allow for the gathering. Again this can depend on how much you want it to gather or how much fabric you have. You may not want it to gather at all which would also be fine. Just leave out Step 4 and cut the skirt the same width as the waistband. Then add a seam allowance of 1.5cm. For the Waistband: Use the same waist measurement for the length of the waistband.

 

For both options, trim the seams and clip the corners (Pic 4 & 5). Turn right side out and press the bottom seam allowance up inside the pocket (Pic 6). Press whole pocket (Pic 7).

For the width 4-5cm is plenty for a child but you may wish to make the adult one a bit wider – anywhere up to 6-7cm wide. Again this is personal choice. Then add a seam allowance of 1.5cm. Ties and pocket: For the pocket it really depends again on how large the person is and how big you want the pocket to be. The finished size of this pocket is 15cm. You will cut two pocket pieces – one out of the lining and one out of the main fabric. For the ties you need to make them long enough to tie and not so long they hang down.

I think around 60-65cm ties are fine. These ties are 5cm wide finished. Remember to add on the 1.5cm seam allowance. This particular version uses the lining and the main fabric – so cut two ties from the main fabric and two from the lining fabric.

There were my apron measurements: 33cm from waist to just above the knee and 56cm around the waist to the mid side back. I then added the seam allowances of 1.5cm on each side and top and bottom and an extra 13cm for the gathering of the skirt. Skirt & lining= 36cm x 72cm 56cm waist measurement plus 1.5 seam allowance. The width is 4cm x 2 (because the waistband is folded) plus seam allowances. Waistband = 59cm x 11cm Ties = 66cm x 8cm Pocket & lining = 18cm x 18cm.

 

Step 1:

 

The Pocket There are several options for the pocket. If you wish to add ric rac you may sew it straight across the pocket or sew it within the seam so that only half of the ric rac sits out along the edge of the pocket making it into a frilled edge. Option a: Tosew the ric rac flat onto the pocket just pin it in the position you would like it and stitch. Then with right sides facing pin side and top seams leaving the bottom open and stitch Option b: With right sides facing, sandwich the ric rac between the pocket and the pocket lining along the top seamline and pin (pic 1). Then turn the pocket right side out to see if it is lined up (pic 2). Pin the side seams as well leaving the bottom open and stitch (Pic 3)

Step 2:

Attaching the pocket Pin the pocket to the apron front. When positioning, make sure you allow for when it is gathered. Stitch.

I have added a row of ric rac at the bottom of the apron which is also optional. Pin in the position you want it and stitch.

Step 3:

The apron skirt With right sides facing pin the lining to the apron front.

Stitch. Trim seams and clip the corners. Turn right side out, making sure you push out the corners properly, and press.

At this point it is optional whether or not you top stitch. I liked the look of top stitching on this apron.

Step 4:

 

Gathering the skirt Set your machine stitch length to a long stitch. Without back stitching at the start or the finish sew across the top of the apron skirt. Repeat this just inside the first row of stitching.

Stitch. Trim seams and clip the corners. Turn right side out, making sure you push out the corners properly, and press. Take the bottom thread of each row of stitching and holding the apron skirt pull into a gather. Do this on both sides of the apron skirt until the apron fits the width of the waistband not including the seam allowances.
Step 5:

Attaching the waistband At this point while making the apron I decided that the waistband wouldn’t be stiff enough to sit properly so I attached a lightweight interfacing – iron on vile

ne. This is completely optional. Just cut a piece that measures half the waistband and iron on. With the right sides facing pin the waistband to the apron skirt making sure the gathers are even. Stitch.

Step 6:

Making the ties With right sides facing pin the ties together leaving one end open. Stitch. Trim seams and clip the corners. Turn right side out, making sure you push the corners out properly, and press.

Step 7:

Pleating the ties To fit the ties into the waistband, I sew in a little pleat at the top of the tie. Just fold and stitch,making sure they are opposite and don’t go in the same direction – see the picture.
It is now optional whether you hand sew the waistband to the apron skirt lining or top stich it down. On this apron I have top stitched it all the way around. Again it depends on the look you want or how much time you have etc.

Step 8:

Attaching the ties to the waistband Fold the waistband in half with the right sides facing. Pin each side sandwiching the ties in the seam. Stitch.

Trim the seam and clip the corners. Turn the waistband right side out and press.

How to Sew a Lined Apron-1 How to Sew a Lined Apron-2 How to Sew a Lined Apron-6 How to Sew a Lined Apron-5 How to Sew a Lined Apron-1

New Born Baby booties

New born baby booties- With tie fastening

Pattern by Marina Walden-Walnut Baby

New Born Baby booties-1
Materials
 Pattons baby wool 2 ply ( or other suitable 2 ply) 1.75 mm hook

Tension 8 DC x 3 rows = 2cm Stitches & Abbreviations Adjustable ring tutorial  This pattern uses US stitch notationBeg    Beginning Cont    Continue SL    Slip Stitch ST    Stitch CH    Chain SC    Single Crochet HDC    Half Double Crochet DC    Double Crochet HTR    Half Treble Crochet TR    Treble Crochet DTR    Double Treble Crochet Inc    Increase Dec    Decrease TRxTOG    Treble x number of stitches together US – UK Stitch Conversion SC     =     DC HDC    =    HTR DC    =    TR Bootie (make 2) CH18Bootie sole Build up the sole of the bootie by working around the starting chain and increasing at the ends, making an oval shape.Row1. Working into the back loop on the chain; 3 DC in second CH from hook, DC into next 15 CH, 8 DC into next CH, Then working back along the other side of the chain DC into next 15 CH 4 DC into the starting CH , SS into starting DC (45 ST) Row2. CH3, DC into same SC as chain (counts as 2 DC) 2DC, 1DC DC into next 18 DC 2DC, 1DC, 2DC, 2DC DC into next 18 DC 2DC, 1DC, 2DC, join together with SS into 3rd of the starting chains (52 ST)
New Born Baby booties-2Row3.CH3, 2DC into next 2DC 1DC into next 22DC 2DC, 1DC, 1DC, 2DC 1DC into next 22DC 2DC, 1DC, SS into 3rd of the starting chains (57 ST)Row4.CH3, [2DC, 1SC] twice, 2DC into next DC 1DC into next 21DC, [2DC, 1DC] 3 times, 2DC into next DC, 1DC into next 21DC, 2DC, 1DC, 2DC, SS into 3rd of starting chains (66 ST) Row5 CH1, SC in each DC of previous round join with SSRow6 using back loops only from the previous row, CH3, DC into each SC, Join with SS Row7 –10 CH3, DC into each DC of previous row, Join with SS Fasten off.

Toe & Top The toe and top are made by gradually gathering together the stitches. Find the front mid point on the bootie – I do this by folding the bootie in half to find the central stitch. Row1 join the yarn into the 14th DC to the right of the central stitch Ch 4, TR4TOG (see stitches notes) [TR6TOG] 3 times TR5TOG (worked 28 sts) DC in next 42 DC, SS to beginning CH (38ST) Row2 CH5, TR5TOG (joining the previous cluster stitches), CH 6 DC in next 42 DC, SS into beginning CH Row3 CH1 SC in 5CH SC in centre of cluster SC in 5CH SC in next 38 DC, SS into first CHRow4 CH4 TR in each SC, SS into first CH Row5-7 CH1 SC in each ST, SS into first CH Row8-9 CH3 [1DC, 2DC] repeat to end, SS into first CH Fasten off Tie (make 2)CH150 (or longer if desired) Row1 SS into back loop of each CH Fasten off Sew in all loose ends Thread the Tie through Row 4 of bootie top Make up Sew in all loose ends Thread the Tie through Row 4 of bootie top & fasten in a bow.

Pattern by Marina Walden-Walnut Baby

 

Crochet Circle Lapghan

By: Kim Kotary for Red Heart Yarn

Crochet Circle Lapghan-1Materials:

 RED HEART® “Eco-Ways®” 3 skeins each, 1615 Lichen A, 3314 Chamois B, 3523 Asparagus C and 3360 Mushroom D.

 Crochet Hook: 5.5mm [US I-9]. Yarn needle.

GAUGE: Rounds 1-3 = 4″ in diameter.

CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the specified gauge.

Stripe Sequence Work 1 round with A, 2 rounds with B, 3 rounds with C, 2 rounds with A, 3 rounds with D, 2 rounds with B, 3 rounds with C, 3 rounds with D, 1 round with A, 2 rounds with D, 4 rounds with B, 2 rounds with D, 4 rounds with C, 2 rounds with A, 1 round with B, 2 rounds with D, 3 rounds with C, 3 rounds with A, 2 rounds with B, 1 round with D and 1 round with A. Work these 47 rounds for Stripe Sequence.

AFGHAN With A, ch 4, slip st in first st to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), [dc in ring, ch 1] 11 times, slip st in 3rd ch of beginning ch to join. Fasten off.

Round 2: Join B in any ch-space, ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 2 dc in same ch-space, [3 dc] in each ch-space around, slip st in top of beginning ch to join.

Round 3: Ch 1, *sc in first dc of dc-group, ch 3, skip next dc, sc in next dc, Fptr around dc 2 rows below; repeat from * around, slip st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Follow Stripe Sequence to change colors. If joining new color, join in indicated st. If continuing with same color, slip st to indicated st.

Round 4: In ch-space, ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 3 dc in same ch-space, [4 dc] in each ch-space around, slip st in top of beginning ch to join.

Round 5: In first dc of dc-group, ch 1, *sc in first dc, ch 4, skip 2 dc, sc in next dc, Fptr around Fptr 2 rows below; repeat from * around, slip st in first sc to join.

Round 6: In ch-space, ch 3, 4 dc in same ch-space, [5 dc] in each ch-space around, slip st in top of beginning ch to join.

Round 7: In first dc of dc-group, ch 1, *sc in first sc, ch 5, skip 3 dc, sc in next dc, Fptr around Fptr 2 rows below; repeat from * around, slip st in first sc to join.

Round 8: In ch-space, ch 3, 5 dc in same ch-space, [6 dc] in each ch-space around, slip st in top of beginning ch to join.

Round 9: In first dc of dc-group, ch 1, *sc in first dc, ch 6, skip 4 dc, sc in next dc, Fptr around Fptr 2 rows below; repeat from *, slip st in first sc to join.

Round 10: In ch-space, ch 3, 6 dc in same ch-space, [7 dc] in each ch-space around, slip st in top of beginning ch to join.

Round 11: In first dc of dc-group, ch 1, *sc in first dc, ch 1, skip next dc, sc in next dc, Fpdc around center dc of dc-group 2 rows below, sc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc, sc in next dc, Fptr around Fptr 2 rows below; repeat from * around, slip st in first sc to join.

Round 12: In ch-space, ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-space, [3 dc] in each ch-space around, slip st in top of ch-3 to join.

Round 13: In first dc of dc-group, ch 1, *sc in first dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc, sc in next dc, Fptr around Fptr 2 rows below, repeat from * around, slip st in first sc to join. Keeping in Stripe Sequence, repeat Rounds 4-13 for 3 more times. Repeat Rounds 12-13 once. Repeat Rounds 4-5 once.

Fasten off.

FINISHING Weave in ends.

Candy Cane Scarf

By: Red Heart Design Team

Scarf measures 4″ x 46″, or desired length.

Materials:

RED HEART® “Spark-a-Doodle™”: 1 Ball each 9901 Reddy A and 9001 White Cloud B.

Knitting Needles: 5.5mm [US 9].

Yarn needle.

GAUGE: Gauge is not important for this project.

Special Abbreviation

KFB = K into front and back of next st.

NOTES

 For color changes, do not cut yarn; instead, carry unused yarn along edge of scarf.

 When working with Spark-a-Doodle™, work sts with yarn between pompoms. Do not pull pompoms through sts.

SCARF

With A, make a slip knot.

Row 1: KFB – 2 sts.

Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12: K across.

Row 3: KFB, K to end – 3 sts.

Rows 5, 7, 9, 11, 13: Repeat Row 3 – 8 sts.

Rows 14-15: With B, K across.

Rows 16-17: With A, K across.

Repeat Rows 14-17 until Scarf is 42” long, or desired length.

Next Row: With A, K2tog, K to end – 7 sts.

Next Row: K across.

Repeat last 2 rows until 1 st remains on needle. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Candy Cane Scarf-1