A Garbing for Dummies How-To by Alona TwoTrees

Hakama are a great and easy set of pants to make, and period (the period ones usually have a piece of wood in the back to help support it, but I find that the hakama do not need it) alternative to the normal wrap pants. You can place these over jeans or shorts and they keep you warm (because you can layer it in these huge pants) or cool in the summer (a pair of boxers or shorts only underneath them as they will stick out on the sides at the triangle if you do not wear a kimono or shirt tucked in.
First, collect the items you will need:
1 Flat Twin Sheet. (approximately 4 bucks at Walmart) or approx 3 yards of fabric Thread of the same color as the fabric.

Scissors
Sewing Machine or Needle for hand sewing
Pins
Optional:
Seamripper for when you mess up
Open and unwrap then wash and dry the fabric. This makes sure that any shrinking will be done before the fabric gets sewn.
Second, open the fabric so it is full length on the floor or table for cutting. Cut off the finished and hemmed edges of the fabric, including the sides. 
 

How to make Hakama

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1. Trace the bodice-front sloper. Cut out the tracing and the dart.
2. Draw the line for the French dart (Fig. 51a). This is a guideline for positioning the new darts.
3. Locate the position of the new darts 1/2 inch away on each side of the guideline. End the lines 1/2 inch from the dart point. This automatically shortens the darts while in construction instead of shortening them in the final pattern. Mark the ends with a cross line (Fig. 51a).
4. Connect the ends of the new darts with the dart point (Fig.51a).
5. For clarity in developing the pattern, label sections 1, 2, and 3 as in the illustration (Fig. 51a).
6. Cut away section 2 from the rest of the bodice.
7. Close the waistline dart and fasten it with Scotch tape. This throws the dart control to the new position.
S. Place section 2 in the new dart opening so the spaces between 1 and 2 and 3 and 2 are equal (Fig. 51b). Trace the pattern.
9. Locate the new dart points in the center of each spread area at the shortened length. Draw new dart legs, making certain that each pair is equal in length. (Fig. 51b ).
10. Fold the darts into position and trace the side seam (Fig.51c).
11. Complete the pattern by adding all the necessary pattern symbols and notations.
Should you wish three French darts instead of two, slash all three French dart lines. Place sections 2a and 2b in the dart opening so that all spaces between are equal (Fig. 51d). Proceed as for two darts (Fig. 51e).
An interesting design for a dress results from utilizing related dart control in bodice and skirt (Fig. 52). The French darts of the bodice are placed at the waistline and developed as in Fig. 51.
The skirt pattern is developed as directed below.


How to make Multiple Darts in the skirts
1. Trace the skirt-front sloper. Cut out the tracing and the dart.
2. Draw a guideline for the position _of the darts. Draw new dart lines 1/2 inch away on each side of the guideline. End the lines
1/2 inch from the dart point to shorten the new darts while in construction. Connect the ends of the new darts with the dart point (Fig. 52a). (Should the skirt dart not be long enough to provide the desired angle for the new darts, extend it .) 3. Label sections as illustrated (Fig. 52a).
4. Cut away section 2 from the rest of the skirt.
5.  Close the original dart and fasten with Scotch tape.
6. Place section 2 in the new dart opening so the spaces between 1 and 2 and 3 and 2 are equal (Fig. 52b). Trace the pattern.
7. Locate the new dart points in the center of each space. Draw new darts from the new dart points. Fold the darts into’ position and trace the side seam (Fig. 52c).
8. Complete the pattern with all the necessary signs and symbols.

{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns
Adele P. Margolis

You will have to admit that dividing the dart control so it comes from many different ‘directions, each vying for attention, can be very distracting (Fig. 49a). However, an equal number of darts on the same seam line are another matter. Repetition in a row is a time honored method of achieving harmony and interest in design (Fig.49b).
Dart control may be divided into multiple darts or dart tucks.


Multiple darts like divided dart control produce a fitted garment.
The shaping is more subtle than a single dart. The design may be more interesting than divided dart control (Fig. 50a).

Dart tucks are parts of darts. They begin as darts but are stitched only part way. The fullness released by this construction produces a soft, full effect (Fig. 50b) or a draped effect (Fig. 50c). Dart tucks require careful and subtle designing. There’s a very fine line between a chic look and a matronly one.

{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns
Adele P. Margolis

1. On the cut-out sleeve sloper with the cut-out dart, locate the position of the new dart at the wrist. Mark point A one-third or one-fourth of the way up from the back underarm seam.
2. Draw a slash line from A to the elbow dart point (Fig. 47a).
3. Slash the new dart line.
4. Close PART of the elbow dart control. The remaining control is automatically shifted to the new wrist dart (Fig. 47b).
5. Trace the new pattern leaving the diminished elbow dart as a dart. Draw a new wrist line disregarding the wrist dart (Fig. 47c) .
The wrist control appears as unstitched fullness.
6. Complete the pattern.

This one-piece dress sleeve becomes the basis of the one-piece suit sleeve and the one-piece coat sleeve, both of which also require the ease provided by the unstitched fullness .
The division of dart control need not be Limited to a two-way split. Dart control can be divided three ways, or four ways, or more.
Theoretically, you could divide the control in many places around the perimeter of a sloper (Fig. 48). The question is, “Who would want to?” The resulting design would be pretty cluttered.

{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns
Adele P. Margolis

Stitching the full amount of dart control into any garment results in a fitted garment with a standard amount of ease.
In periods when a more relaxed look is fashionable, some of the divided dart control may appear as unstitched fullness.
For instance: In a bodice with dart control divided between waistline and underarm, the underarm dart is stitched for fit while the waistline dart is left unstitched for fullness (Fig. 45a).
In Fig. 45b, the dart control is divided between a stitched dart originating at the armhole and unstitched dart control at the waistline giving it some fullness.
The utilization of divided dart control-some stitched and some unstitched-is the basis of semi-fitted styles such as the shift or skimmer dress.

Sewing the patterns
FIG. 45a
1. Divide the dart control between waistline and underarm (Fig. 46a). (The waistline dart control is handled as for gathers.)
2. Trace the pattern allowing the underarm dart to remain as a dart. Draw a line across the waistline as for a seam (Fig. 46b).
3. Complete the pattern.

FIG. 45b
1. Divide the dart control between waistline and armhole (Fig. 46c). (The waistline dart control is handled as in Fig. 46a).
2. Trace the pattern allowing the armhole dart to remain as a dart. Draw a line across the waistline as for a seam (Fig. 46d).
3. Complete the pattern.

{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns
Adele P. Margolis

Patterns generally come in halves that are ha1f a front, ha1f a back, etc. This makes cutting easier, faster, and more accurate (right and left sides are cut alike).  Below is printable skirt, sleeve and front bodice slopes.

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More Printable Front and Back Foundation Slopes as requested by viewers of pattern-making.

Knife-edge pillows are plump in the center and flat around the edges. These simple pillows can be made in half an hour.
Use the knife-edge pillow directions to make removable pillow liners.
Sew liners from muslin, sheeting, cotton sateen or similar fabrics.

Cutting Directions
Cut front and back 1″ (2.5 cm) larger than finished pillow or liner.
For hook and loop tape or zipper closure, add 1-1/2” (3.8 cm) to back width; for overlap closure, add 51/2”’ (14 cm).

YOU WILL NEED
Decorator fabric for pillow front and back.
Lining fabric for pillow liner, front and back.
Pillow foam or polyester fiberfill.
Use 8 to 12 oz. (227 to 360 g) fiberfill for a 14″ (35.5 cm) pillow, depending on desired firmness. Zipper or other closure (optional)

How to Make a Knife-edge Pillow or Liner

1) Fold front into fourths. Mark a point halfway between the corner and the fold on each open side. At corner, mark a point 1/2″ (1.3 cm) from each raw edge.

2) Trim from center mark to corner, gradually tapering from the edge to the W’ (1.3 cm) mark.
Taper from W’ (1.3 cm) mark to center mark on opposite edge.

3) Unfold front and use it as a pattern for trimming back so that all corners are slightly rounded.
This will eliminate dog-ears on the corners of the finished pillow:

4) Pin front to back, right sides together. Stitch 1/2” (1.3 cm) seam, leaving opening on one side for turning and stuffing. Backstitch at the beginning and end of seam.

5) Trim comers diagonally, 1/8”” (3 mm) from stitching. On pillows with curved edges or round comers, clip seam allowance to stitching at intervals along curves.

6) Turn pillow right side out, pulling out comers.
Press the seams. Press under the seam allowances in the opening.

7a) Insert a purchased pillow form into the pillow, or stuff the pillow with polyester fiberfIll as in step 7b, below. Use a removable form or liner in pillows that will be dry-cleaned or laundered.

7b) Stuff pillow or liner with polyester fiberfill, gently pulling pieces apart to fluff and separate fibers. Work filling into comers, using long, blunt tool such as a spoon handle.

8)  Pin opening closed and edge stitch close to folded edge, backstitching at beginning and end of the Stitching. Or slipstitch opening closed.

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

To choose the right fabric for your pillow, consider how the pillow will be used and where it will be placed in your home. For a pillow that will receive hard wear, select a sturdy, firmly woven fabric that will retain its shape.

Pillows get their shape from forms or loose fillings.
Depending on their washability, loose fillings may be stuffed directly into the pillow covering or encased in a separate liner for easy removal. For ease in laundering or dry cleaning, make a separate inner covering or liner for the stuffing, using lightweight muslin or lining fabric, or use purchased pillow
forms. Make the liner as you would a knife-edge pillow (pages 72 and 73), fill it with stuffing, and machine-stitch it closed. Choose from several kinds of forms and fillings.

Standard polyester foams are square, round and rectangular for knife-edge pillows in sizes from 10″ to 30″ (25.5 to 76 cm). These forms are nonallergenic, washable, do not bunch, and may have muslin or polyester outer coverings. Choose muslin-covered forms for pillows with hook and loop tape closings. The loose muslin fibers do not catch on the rough side of the tape.
Polyurethane foam is available in sheets IN’ to 5″ (1.3 to 12.5 cm) thick for firm pillows and cushions.
Some stores carry a high-density foam, 4″ (10 cm) thick, for extra firm cushions. Since cutting the foam is difficult, ask the salesperson to cut a piece to the size of your pillow. If you must cut your own foam, use an electric or serrated knife with silicone lubricant sprayed on the blade. Polyurethane foam is also available shredded.

Polyester fiberfill is washable, nonallergenic filling for pillows or pillow liners. Fiberfill comes in loose-pack bags or pressed into batting sheets of varying densities. For a smooth pillow, sew an inner liner of batting, then stuff with loose fill. ‘Soften the hard edges of polyurethane foam by wrapping the form with batting.
Kapok is vegetable fiber filling, favored by some decorators because of its softness. However, kapok is messy to work with and becomes matted with use.
Down is washed, quill-less feathers from the breasts of geese and ducks. Down makes the most luxurious pillows, but it is expensive and not readily available.

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

Pillow styles range from simple to elaborate. Choice of technique affects your sewing time. Choose a simple knife-edge pillow, or invest more time in tailoring a box pillow complete with cording and a zipper.

1) Neckrolls are small round bolsters that are often
trimmed with lace or ruffles. Sleeping bag pillows
are the simplest neckroll bolsters to make. They are
made with a drawstring closure at each end of a
one-piece tube.

2) Shirred corded pillow is made by inserting
gathered cording in the seam around the pillow.
Cording is gathered using a technique, known as
shirring, to gather the bias strip that covers the cord.
Make cording in matching or contrasting fabric to
add a decorative finish to a pillow.

3) Shirred box pillow uses shirring to gather both
edges of the boxing strip. This makes the pillow
softer than the traditional box pillow.

4) Flange pillow has a single or double, flat
self-border, usually 2″ (5 cm) wide, around a plump
knife-edge pillow.’

5) Mock box pillow is a variation of the knife-edge
pillow, with shaped corners to add depth. Corners
made using gathered style are tied inside the pillow.

6) Ruffled pillow features gathered lace or ruffles
made in single or double layers. Pillow tops framed
by ruffles in matching or contrasting fabric make
attractive showcases for needlepoint, quilting,
embroidery or candlewicking.

7) Box pillow has the added depth of a straight
or shirred boxing strip. It can be soft for a scatter
pillow, or firm for a chair cushion or floor pillow.

8 ) Mock box pillow can be made with mitered corners
to create a tailored box shape.

9) Knife-edge pillow is the easiest pillow to make. It
consists of two pieces of fabric sewn together, turned
right side out and stuffed.

10) Corded pillow is a knife-edge pillow with
matching or contrasting cording sewn in the seams.
Use purchased cording or make your own. Or finish
the pillow with a mock corded edge for a corded
look without extra sewing time or fabric. Corded
pillows are often called piped pillows.

{Credit} Singer sewing for the Home (copyright 1984-1988)

Another common division of dart control is between waistline and shoulder darts.

1. On the cut-out bodice-front sloper with the cut-out dart, locate the position of the new shoulder dart. When there is a dart on the back shoulder, it is a fine point in design to match the location of the two. Place the front sloper against the back shoulder Mark the position of the front shoulder dart. Label the point A (Fig. 43a).
2. Draw the new: dart line from shoulder to dart point (Fig. 43a).
3. Slash the dart line.
4. Close PART of the original dart; the remaining control is automatically shifted to the new dart (Fig. 43b).
5. Complete the pattern by adding all the necessary signs, symbols, and notations.

How much dart control is shifted to a new position depends on what is appropriate for the material, what is kind to the grain, and what provides a subtle fit.
You can see how divided dart control would be a good way to handle a check or a plaid (Fig. 44) .

{Credit} Design Your Own Dress Patterns
Adele P. Margolis