Materials
25 grams MANUELA-Color size 10 color M201,
crystal (baby colors ombre); MANUELA size
10 color M025, apricot and size 10 color
M027, green for leaves and stem.
Steel crochet hook size 8
Small amount of filling material and small
amount of gray and red floss for eyes and
mouth.
Decoration Materials
Tirol, Art. 5008/121, bright yellow,
width 170 cm, from I.C. Leibfried, Germany.
Cedar wood blocks (repels moths),
from Susanne’s Klöppel-Zentrum, Germany
Flower Children
Size: about 3 inches
Note:
All Rnds are joined with slip stitch and each first st has to be worked as ch instead (ch 1 for sc, ch 2 for hdc, etc.). Head, collar and dress are worked continuously.
Instructions:
Head in apricot (color I)
Form a ring.
Rnd 1: 12 sc in ring (12).
Rnd 2: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) around (18).
Rnd 3: (2 sc in next sc, sc in next) around (24).
Rnds 4-8: work sc in each st around.
Rnd 9: (sc dec over next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts) around (18).
Rnd 10: sc in each st around. – Start stuffing head –.
Rnd 11: (sc dec over next 2 sts, sc in next st) around (12). Collar in green (color II)
Rnd 12: 2 sc in each st around (24).
Rnd 13: V In the following st work: sl st, ch 4, 3-dc cluster, ch 1, sl st, ch 3, skip next 3 sts of previous Rnd V.
Rep from V to V around (6 flowers). Dress in crystal “ombre” (color III)
Rnd 14: V Sc into the ch 3 from last Rnd,
ch 3 V, when you do this hold the leaves towards the head and have the ch’s go behind it, repeat from V to V around (6 ch total).
Rnd 15: V In next ch 3 sp, sc, ch 3, 2 trc, picot, 2 trc, ch 3 V. Repeat from V to V around.
Rnd 16: same as Rnd 14 but ch 4 instead of ch 3.
Rnd 17: Same as Rnd 15 but 3 trc instead of 2 trc.
Rnd 18: Same as Rnd 14 but with ch 5.
Rnd 19: Same as Rnd 15 but with 4 trc.
Rnd 20: Same as Rnd 14 but with ch 6.
Rnd 21: Same as Rnd 15 but with 5 trc.
Rnd 22: Same as Rnd 14 but with ch 7.
Rnd 23: In next ch 7 sp V sc, ch 3, 6 trc, picot, 6 trc, ch 3, sc V.
Repeat from V to V around. Flower Hat in green (color II) Leave beginning thread long to make stem later.
Rnd 1: 12 sc in yarn ring or ring of ch’s.
Rnds 2-4: Sc in each st around (12 per Rnd).
Rnd 5: 2 sc in each st around (24).
Rnd 6: In next st V (sl st, ch 4, 3 trc cluster, ch 4, sl st, ch 3), V skip next 3 sts. Repeat from V to V around.
Flower leaves in crystal “ombre” (color III)
Rnd 7: V In ch 3 sp between leaves from
previous Rnd, sc, ch 3 V, repeat from V to V around – hold leaves towards the “crochet beginning” and work ch’s and sc behind it.
Rnd 8: Repeat Rnd 15 from Dress. Flower Stem in green (color II) With beginning thread from hat, ch 7, turn,
sl st in 2nd from hook and rem 5 chs.
Finishing:
Onto the head with gray and red yarn, stitch mouth and eyes. With a few stitches attach
hat to head if desired and a loop for hanging.
Tip:
When the flower children sleep, push the head into the flower (the hat would have to
be taken off for that).

kill level: beginner
finished measurements
11 inches tall
materials
worsted weight yarn: 2 oz each pearl gray #8912, white # 8942 and light orchid # 8769 and small amount pale clay #8806  # 3 pearl cotton, 2 yards black
size F-5 crochet hook
polyester fiberfill
tapestry needle
yarn needle
pattern note
refer to photo throughout join with a sl st unless otherwise stated.
Do not join rnds unless instructed
Head
RND 1: with pearl gray, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
RND 2: [ sc in each of next 2 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] twice, (8sc)
RND 3: [sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] twice, (10 sc)
RND 4: [ sc in each of next 4 sc. 2 sc in next sc] twice. (12 sc)
RND 5: [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] rep around. ( 18 sc)
RND 6: sc in each sc around.
RND 7: [ sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] rep around. (24sc)
RND 8 & 9: rep rnd 6.
RND 10: [sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] rep around. (30 sc)
RND 11 & 12: rep rnd 6.
RND 13: [sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc] rep around, (36 sc)
RND 14- 19: rep rnd 6.
RND 20: [ sc in each of next 4 sc, dec]
around. (30sc)
RND 21: [sc in each of next 3 sc, dec] rep around, (24 sc)
RND 22: [ sc in each of next 2 sc, dec] rep around (18 sc)
stuff firmly with fiberfill
RND 23: [ sc in next sc, dec] rep around. (12 sc)
RND: dec around, join in next sc, fasten off leaving 6-inch strand, (6 sc)
complete stuffing, weave strand through sts, draw together and secure.
EAR
FRONT (make 2)
ROW 1: with pale clay, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, turn.
ROW 2: 2 sc in each sc around. Change to pearl gray, ch 1, turn. (12 sc)
ROW 3: [sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] rep around, do not join, fasten off. (18 sc)
BACK (make 2)
ROW 1-3: using pearl gray throughout, rep row 1-3 of fronts,
sew back to fronts through back lps, pulling end and beg of rows tog. Sew in place
BODY
RND 1: beg at neck with light orchid, ch 12, join to form ring, ch 1, sc in each ch around. (12 sc)
RND 2: 2 sc in every sc around. (24 sc)
RND 3: sc in each sc around.
RND 4: [sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] rep around, (32 sc)
RND 5: rep rnd 3.
RND 6: [sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] rep around. (40 sc)
RNDS 7-10: rep rnd 3, at end of rnd 10 fasten off. Join white.
RND 11: working in back lps only. Sc in each sc around.
RNDS 12-17: working in both lps, rep rnd 3, begin stuffing.
RNDS 18-21: rep rnds 21-24 of head.
Complete stuffing.
Sew head to body.

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Skill Level: Beginner
Finish size 31-1/2 x 60 inch
Materials:
Red heart baby clouds
super bulky (super chunky) yarn ( 6 oz/140 yds./ 170g per skein):
6 skeins blue sky # 9025 (A)
red heart super saver medium (worsted) weight yarn (7 oz/198g, 364 yds. Per skein):
1 skein light blue # 381 (B)
sizes 1/9/5.5mm and J/10/6mm crochet hooks or size needed to obtain gauge
yarn needle
GAUGE
size J hook and A: 2 shell=2 inches
size 1 hook and B: 7 sc = 2 inches, 7 sc rows = 2 inches
special stitches
shell: 6dc in indicated st.
single crochet decrease (sc dec:) draw up lp in each of next 3 sts, yo, draw through all 4 lps on hook.
Instructions
shrug
row 1: with size j hook and , ch 122, sc in 2nd ch from hook, [sk 2 chs, shell (see special stitches) in next ch, sk 2 chs, sc in next ch] across, turn. (20 shells)
row 2: ch 3 ( counts as first dc throughout), 2 dc in same st as beg ch-3, sc in center dc of next shell, [shell in next sc, sc in center dc of next shell] across to last sc, 3 dc in last sc, turn.
Row 3: ch 1, sc in first dc, shell in next dc, [sc in center dc of next shell, shell in next sc] across, ending sc in 3rd ch of beg ch-3, turn.
Row 4-38: rep row 2 and 3 alternately, ending with a row 2. at end of row 38, fasten off.
First Cuff
row 1 (RS): working in end sts across rows, using size 1 hook, join B with a sl st over first st at right-hand edge, ch 1: beg in same st and gathering edge slightly, work 49 sc evenly spaced across, turn, (49sc)
row 2: ch 1, sc in first sc, [sc dce (see special stitches) in next 3 sc, sc in next sc] across, turn,(25 sts) rows 3-17: ch 1: working in back lps only, sc in each st across, turn. At end of row 17, do not turn.
Row 18: ch 1, sc evenly spaced across long edge of shrug to opposite end.
Second cuff
row 1: ch 1: working in end sts across rows and gathering edge slightly, work 49 sc evenly spaced across, turn. (49sc)
row 2-18: rep rows 2-18 of first cuff, at end of row 18 fasten off.
Finishing
with yam needle and B, beg at end of either cuff, sew seam from beg of cuff across shrug for a total of 10 inches. Rep on rem cuff

Design by: Mary Jane Protus.
Tree skirt measures approximately 60” across. flowers/leaf motif measure  approximately 6-1/2” across
“RED HEART Holiday” Art no. 381 (8.5 oz/ 262 yd metallic solid: 3 oz/ 223 yd metallic. Marl ball): 42 ounces no. 3004 Aran w/gold CA. 5-1/2 ounces no. 3008 wine w/gold CB, and 4-1/2 ounces no. 3009 hunter w/gold cc.
Crochet hooks: 6mm [US-J-10] and 5mm [US size H-8]
yarn needle: sewing needle and thread: 264 (2 packages) 5mm and/or 6mm gold beads,
GAUGE: 12 sts = 4”: 6 rows = 4” in pat with double strand of yarn and larger hook. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. USE ANY SIZE HOOK TO OBTAIN THE GAUGE.
SKIRT: with 2 strands of CA held together as one, ch 29.
row 1: dc in 5th ch from hook, * ch 1. dc in next ch: rep. from * across: turn,
ROW 2: ch 4. skip ch-1 sp,* dc in next dc, 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp: rep. From * to last st: dc in 3rd ch of ch-4: turn- 12 groups of 4 dc.
ROW 3: ch 4, skip ch-1 sp, * [dc in next 2 dc, ch 1] twice, skip next ch- 1 sp: rep from * to last st: dc in 3rd ch of ch-4: turn.
ROW4: ch 4, skip ch-1 sp, * dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next sp, dc in next 2 dc, ch 1, skip next sp: rep. From * to last st: dc in 3rd ch of ch-4: turn – 12 groups of 6 dc.
ROW 5: ch 4, skip ch-1 sp, * [dc in next 3 dc, ch 1] twice, skip next sp: rep from * to last st: dc in 3rd ch of ch-4.
ROW 6: ch 4, skip sp, * dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in sp, dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, skip sp: rep. From / to last st: dc in 3rd ch of ch-4: turn- 12 groups of 8dc.
Continue in the manner of the last 2 rows: adding a ch-1 sp at the center of each of 12 groups on right side rows and working 2 dc in that same sp on wrong side rows, until there are 12 groups of 44 dc on last row. The last ( wrong side) row would be worked as follows: ch 4. skip sp, * dc in next 21 dc, 2 dc in sp, dc in next 21 dc, ch 1, skip sp: rep, from * to last st: dc in 3rd ch of ch- 4 – 12 groups of 44 dc. Fasten off.
Lower edging- row 1: with right side facing and larger hook, attach one strand each CB and CC in top of last dc: ch 3, dc in next sp, dc in next dc and in each dc across (skip all other ch- 1 sps), dc in 3rd ch of ch- 4: turn.
ROW 2: ch 1, ( sc,ch 3, sc) all in first dc, * skip next dc, ( sc, ch 3. sc) all in next st: rep from * across. Fasten off.
Center opening edging: with right side facing and larger hook, attach CB/CC at opening: ch 1, sc evenly up center opening edge, across opposite side of beg ch, and down next edge. Fasten off.
TIE: with larger hook and CB/CC, ch 150. fasten off. Weave through the ch-1 sps of row 1. knot each end. Trim.
Poinsettia ( make 12): with a smaller hook and a single strand of CB, ch 4: join with a sl st in first ch to form a ring.
RND 1: ch 3, dc in ring, ch 1, [2 dc in ring, ch 1] 6 times: join with a sl st to top of ch-3. RND 2: sl st in next dc, ch 1, sc in next sp, * ch 9, sc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next ch. Tr in next ch. dtr in each of next 2 ch, tr in next ch, dc in next ch **, sc in next sp of RND 1: rep from * around, end at **: join with a sl st to first sc- 7 petals.
RND 3: ch 1, * skip sc, sc at the base of next 7 sts, (sc, ch 1, sc) all in ch-2 sp at tip of petal, sc in next 7 sts: rep from * around : join. Fasten off.
LEAVES ( make 12): with CC, work same as poinsettia through rnd 1.
RND 2: sl st in next dc, ch 1. sc in next sp. * ch 11, sc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, dtr in each of next 2 ch, tr in next ch, dc in next ch, ch 2, skip last 2 ch **, sc in next sp of rnd 1: rep from * around, end at **: join with a sl st to first sc- 7 leaves. Fasten off.
FINISHING: arrange poinsettia motif over a leaf motif so that a leaf shows between each of the flower petal and tack together. Sew a group of 22 beads to the center of the poinsettia. Center the assembled motif on one of the 12 sections of the skirt as shown and sew in place.

ABBREVIATIONS: beg: beginning: CA,CB,CC = color A color B, color C: ch= chain: dc = double crochet: dtr: double treble crochet: lp (s) = loop (s) mm = millimeters: oz = ounce: rep = repeat: sc = single crochet: sp= space st(s) = stitch(es):
tr = treble crochet: yd = yard: * repeat wherever follows the * as indicated: [] - work direction in brackets the number of times specified.

Materials: One Pound; 2 skeins Azure (Color A), 2 skeins Off White (Color B), 2 skeins Taupe (Color C), 2 skeins Country Basket Ombre (Color D).
PLEASE NOTE: Yarn usage may vary depending on your particular yarn techniques.
Needles: Size I crochet hook.
Finished Size: Approximately 50″ x 85″.
NOTE: When changing color, before pulling last loop(s) of old color through, drop old color (let hang), yarn over with new color and pull through loops(s). With Color A, ch 192.
Row 1: Sc in 3rd ch from hook and in next 27 chs, * change to Color B, sc in next 27 chs, change to Color A, sc in next 27 chs, repeat from *, end sc in last ch, ch 2, turn.
Row 2: Skip first sc, * working in front, dc around post of each of next 3 sc (FPDC), working in back, dc around post of each of next 3 sc (BPDC), repeat from * across picking up new colors where left off; end hdc in turning ch, ch 2, turn.
Row 3: Skip first st, * FPDC around FPDC, BPDC around BPDC, repeat from * across, picking up new colors where left off, end hdc in turning ch, ch 2, turn.
Row 4: Skip first st, * FPDC around BPDC, BPDC around FPDC, repeat from * across, picking up new colors where left off; end hdc in turning ch, ch 2, turn.
Row 5: Repeat Row 3. Rows 6 – 21: Repeat Rows 2 – 5, fastening off each color on
Row 21, turn. Row 22: (Cable Row) Join Color D with sl st in first st, sc in same st, * ch 3, sk 2 st, sc in next st, turn. Sc in each ch of ch 3, sl st in next st, turn. Working behind ch 3, sc in skipped sts, repeat from *, end sc in turning ch, turn.

Row 23: Join Color B with sl st in first st, ch 2, [* 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, repeat from * until there are 27 sc (do not count beg ch 2), join Color C, ** 2 sc in next st, sc in next st, repeat from ** until there are 27 sc], join Color B, repeat from [ to ] across, end sc in last st, ch 2, turn. Rows 24 – 43: Repeat rows 2 – 21.
Row 44: Repeat row 22. Rows 45 – 175: Repeat rows 23 – 44 six times, omitting row 44 at end of row 175 and alternating colors as indicated by rows 1 – 44. Add fringe of your choice.

#   Bernat® Cottontots (113g/4 oz): Sizes 6 mos (12 mos, 18 mos, 2 yrs), 3 (3 , 3, 4) balls
# Crochet Hook: Size 5.5mm (U.S. I or 9) or size needed to obtain gauge  #  5 Buttons  # Scissors
Sizes  Chest Measurement: 6 mos (17 ins [43 cm]); 12 mos (19 ins [48 cm]); 18 mos (21 ins [53.5 cm]); 2 yrs (21.5 ins [54.5 cm])
Finished Chest: 6 mos (21 ins [53.5 cm]); 12 mos (23 ins [58.5 cm]); 18 mos (25 ins [63.5 cm]); 2 yrs (27 ins [68.5 cm])

Abbreviations: beg=beginning, ch=chain, cm=centimeter(s), cont=continue(ity), g=gram(s), inc=increase, in(s)=inch(es), mm=millimeter(s), mos=months, oz=ounce(s), pat=pattern, rem=remain(ing), rep=repeat, RS=right side, sc=single crochet, sl st(s)=slip stitch(es), sp=space(s), st(s)=stitch(es), Yoh=yarn over hook, yrs=years
Gauge
15 sts and 14 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in pat
The instructions are written for smallest size. If changes are necessary for larger sizes the instructions will be written thus ( ). Back Ch 40 (44-48-52)
Foundation row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. *Ch 1. Miss next ch. 1 sc in next ch. Rep from * to end of ch. Ch 1. Turn. 39 (43-47-51) sts. 1st row: 1 sc in first sc. 1 sc in next ch 1 sp. *Ch 1. Miss next sc. 1 sc in next ch 1 sp. Rep from * to last sc. 1 sc in last sc. Ch 1. Turn. 2nd row: 1 sc in first sc. *Ch 1. Miss next sc. 1 sc in next ch 1 sp. Rep from * to last 2 sc. Ch 1. Miss next sc. 1 sc in last sc. Ch 1. Turn.
Last 2 rows form pat.
Cont in pat until work from beg measures 6H (7-7I-8H) ins [16.5 (18-19.5-21.5) cm], ending with RS facing and omitting turning ch at end of last row.
Shape armholes: Next row: Sl st in each of first 4 sts. Ch 1. Pat to last 4 sts. Ch 1. Turn. Leave rem sts unworked. 31 (35-39-43) sts.
Cont even in pat until armhole measures 4H (5-5G-5H) ins [11.5 (12.5-13-14) cm], ending with RS facing and omitting turning ch at end of last row. Fasten off.
Left Front **Ch 20 (22-24-26)
Foundation row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. *Ch 1. Miss next ch. 1 sc in next ch. Rep from * to end of ch. Ch 1. Turn. 19 (21-23-25) sts. Proceed in pat as given for Back until work from beg measures 6H (7-7I-8H) ins [16.5 (18-19.5-21.5) cm], ending with RS facing and omitting turning ch at end of last row.**
Shape armhole: Next row: Sl st in each of first 4 sts. Ch 1. Pat to end of row. 15 (17-19-21) sts.
Cont even in pat until armhole measures 2H (3-3G-3H) ins [6 (7.5-8-9) cm], ending with RS facing for next row.
Neck shaping: 1st row: Pat to last 3 (3-4-4) sts. Ch 1. Turn. Leave rem sts unworked. 2nd row: Draw up a loop in each of first 2 sts. Yoh and draw through all 3 loops on hook - sc2tog made. Pat to end of row. Ch 1. Turn. 3rd row: Pat to last 2 sts. Sc2tog over last 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn.
Rep 2nd row once more. 9 (11-12-14) sts.
Cont even in pat until work from beg measures same length as Back to shoulders, ending with RS facing for next row and omitting turning ch at end of last row. Fasten off.
Right Front Work from ** to ** as given for Left Front but do not omit turning ch at end of last row.
Shape armhole: Next row: Pat to last 4 sts. Ch 1. Turn. Leave rem sts unworked. 15 (17-19-21) sts.
Cont even in pat until armhole measures 2 1/2 (3-3 1/4-3 1/2) ins [6 (7.5-8-9) cm], ending with RS facing and omitting turning ch at end of last row.
Neck shaping: 1st row: Sl st in each of first 3 (3-4-4) sts. Ch 1. Pat to end of row. 2nd row: Pat to last 2 sts. Sc2tog over last 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn. 3rd row: Sc2tog over first 2 sts. Pat to end of row. Ch 1. Turn.
Rep 2nd row once more. 9 (11-12-14) sts.
Cont even in pat until work from beg measures same length as Back to shoulders, ending with RS facing and omitting turning ch at end of last row. Fasten off.
Sleeves
Ch 28 (30-30-30)
Foundation row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. *Ch 1. Miss next ch. 1 sc in next ch. Rep from * to end of ch. Ch 1. Turn. 27 (29-29-29) sts.
Proceed in pat as given for Back for 3 rows.
Next row: (RS. Increase row). 2 sc in first st. Pat to last st. 2 sc in last st. Ch 1. Turn. Work a further 3 rows even in pat. Rep last 4 rows 2 (3-4-5) times more, taking inc sts into pat. 33 (37-39-41) sts.
Cont even in pat until work from beg measures 6 (7H-8-9) ins [15 (19-20.5-23) cm]. Place a marker at each end of last row. Work a further 4 rows even in pat omitting turning ch at end of last row. Fasten off.
Hood
Ch 76 (78-80-82).
Foundation row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. *Ch 1. Miss next ch. 1 sc in next ch. Rep from * to end of ch. Ch 1. Turn. 75 (77-79-81) sts.
Proceed in pat as given for Back for 3 rows.
Next row: (RS). Sc2tog over first 2 sts. Pat to last 2 sts. Sc2tog over last 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn. Next row: Work even in pat.
Rep last 2 rows to 59 (61-63-65) sts.
Cont even in pat until work from beg measures 6G (6I-7-7G) ins [16 (17-18-18.5) cm], ending with RS facing and omitting turning ch at end of last row.
Shape back seam: Next 6 rows: Sl st in each of first 3 sts. Pat to last 3 sts. Turn. Leave rem sts unworked. 23 (25-27-29) sts rem. Fasten off.
Finishing: Pin garment pieces to measurements and cover with a damp cloth and allow cloth to dry.
Buttonhole Band: 1st row: With RS of Right Front facing for Her or Left Front facing for Him, work 30 (34-38-46) sc evenly along between neck edge and lower edge. Ch 1. Turn. 2nd row: 1 sc in each sc across. Ch 1. Turn. 3rd row: 1 sc in each of first 2 sc. *Ch 2. Miss next 2 sc. 1 sc in each of next 4 (5-6-7) sc. Rep from * 3 times more. Ch 2. Miss next 2 sc. 1 sc in each of last 2 sc. Ch 1. Turn. 4th row: 1 sc in each of first 2 sc. *2 sc in next ch 2 sp. 1 sc in each of next 4 (5-6-7) sc. Rep from * 3 times more. 2 sc in next ch 2 sp. 1 sc in each of last 2 sc. Ch 1. Turn. 5th row: 1 sc in each sc across. Fasten off.
Button Band: Work as given for Buttonhole Band on Left Front for Her or Right Front for Him, omitting all reference to buttonholes.
Sew shoulder seams. Fold Hood in half along back seam edge and sew center back seam. Pin shaped edge of Hood to neck opening, beg at center of button or buttonhole bands and matching back seam of Hood to center back neck edge. Sew in Sleeves placing rows above markers along armhole edges of Fronts and Back to form square armholes. Sew side and sleeve seams. Sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes.
Tip:

MATERIALS
BERNAT Luxor (30 yd. skeins) - 19 White (M C); 3 each Bud Green (Color A) and Vermillion (Color B)
1 aluminum crochet hook Size G OR ANY SIZE HOOK WHICH WILL GIVE THE STITCH GAUGE GIVEN BELOW
6 small Christmas bells
12 small black buttons
GAUGE: 3 s c = 1 inch 3 rows s c = 1 inch
RUG: Using M C, starting at centre, ch 31.
Row 1: 1 s c in 2nd st from hook and in each of remaining sts, ch 1, turn- 30 s c.
NOTE: Always ch 1 for turning ch.
Row 2: * 1 s c in each of next 4 s c, 2 s c in next s c (inc), repeat from * across row - 6 s c increased.
Row 3: * 1 s c in each of next 5 s c, 2 s c in next s c, repeat from * across row - 6 s c increased.
Row 4: * 1 s c in each of next 6 s c, 2 s c in next s c, repeat from * across row - 6 s c increased. Continue in this manner to inc 6 s c EVERY ROW 22 times more, having 1 s c more before each inc on every row- 180 s c. Break off M C. Join Color A and, continuing to inc 6 s c EVERY ROW in same manner as before, work 16 rows in Color A - 276 s c. Break off Color A.
Join M C and, continuing to increase in same manner as before, work 8 rows in M C - 324 s c. Break off M C.
EDGING: Join Color A at beg of starting ch; working on other side of starting ch, 1 s c in each of 30 sts; continuing along edge of rug, * insert hook in end of next row, wrap yarn loosely around left forefinger twice, insert hook in these loops and draw them through st, remove finger from loops, y o and through all loops on hook (1 double loop st made), insert hook in end of next row, wrap yarn loosely around left forefinger once, insert hook in this loop and draw through st, remove finger from loop, y o and through all loops on hook (1 single loop st made), repeat from * around outer edge to beg of round. Fasten off.
SANTA CLAUS: Make 6.
FACE: Using M C, ch 4.
Row 1: 1 s c in 2nd st from hook and in each of remaining 2 sts, ch 1, turn. Continuing in s c, inc 1 st each end of EVERY ROW 4 times. Work even for 3 rows on 11 s c, ch 1, turn. Work 1 round s c around all edges.
WHISKERS: Starting at right top of face, work 1 single loop st in each s c to left top of face. Fasten off.
HAT: Using M C for lower piece, ch 8. Row 1: 1 s c in 2nd st from hook and in each of remaining sts, ch 1, turn.
Rows 2 and 3: Inc 1 s c each end of row, ch 1, turn - 11 s c.
Rows 4 and 5: Dec 1 s c each end of row, ch 1, turn - 7 s c. Break off M C. Using Color A, work 1 round s c around piece. Fasten off.
Using Color B for top of hat, ch 11.
Row 1: 1 s c in 2nd st from hook and in each of remaining sts, ch 1, turn - 10 s c.
Rows 2 and 3: 1 s c in each s c, ch 1, turn.
Row 4: Inc 1 s c each end of row - 12 s c.
Row 5: Dec 1 s c at beg of row ONLY, ch 1, turn.
Row 6: Dec 1 s c at end of row, ch 1, turn - 10 s c.
Rows 7, 8 and 9: Dec 1 sc each end of row, ch 1, turn - 4 sc.
Row 10: Inc 1 sc at end of row, ch 1, turn - 5 s c.
Rows 11 and 12: 1 s c in each s c, ch 1, turn.
Row 13: Dec 1 s c each end of row, ch 1, turn.
Row 14: Draw up a loop in each of 3 s c, yo and through all loops on hook. Fasten off.
TASSEL: Using MC, ch 3. Work 1 double loop st in 2nd and 3rd st from hook. Fasten off.
FINISHING: MOUTH: Make 6. Using Color B, ch 7. Fasten off.
EYEBROWS: Make 6. Using color B, ch 6. Fasten off.
Using color A, embroider 3 V sts in center of lower portion of hat.
Sew eyes, eyebrows and mouths in place as shown in photograph.
Using color B, embroider noses. Sew a bell to top of each hat.
Sew lower portion of hat to top and sew over face, slanting top to one side.
Sew one Santa to green stripe in each of the 6 portions of rug, as shown in photograph.

This dear little amigurumi bunny is so quick and easy to crochet that you may have to make a whole hutch-full. Perfectly sized for children to tuck into their backpacks.

SKILL LEVEL: Easy

SIZE: One Size
About 5¾ in. [14.5 cm] tall; 4½ inches seated.
CORRECTIONS: None
MATERIALS
• 620-171 Lion Brand Wool-Ease: Gold

1 Skeins (A)
• 620-195 Lion Brand Wool-Ease: Azalea Pink
1 Skeins (B)
• Lion Brand Crochet Hook - Size H-8
• Lion Brand Stitch Markers

• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)
• Additional Materials
1. Polyester fiberfill stuffing

2. 2 small beads or felt circles for eyes (Note If Bunny is to be a toy do not use beads, instead use small circles cut from felt) 3. Brown embroidery floss and embroidery needle
GAUGE:
20 sc + 27 rows = 4 in. [10 cm]. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.
STITCH EXPLANATION:
NOTES:
Rounds are worked in continuous spirals; do not join. Do not turn work at the end of each round.

sc2tog (sc dec) (Insert hook into next st and draw up a loop) twice, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook – 1 sc decreased
ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES

Click for explanation and illustration
beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s)
dec = decreas(e)(s)(ing) rnd(s) = round(s)
sc = single crochet st(s) = stitch(es)

HEAD
With A, ch 2.

Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first chain. Mark first st for beg of rnd; move marker up each rnd.
Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around – 12 sc.
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * around – 18 sc.
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 2 sc; repeat from * around – 24 sc.
Rnd 5: *2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 3 sc; repeat from * around – 30 sc.
Rnds 6-10: Sc in each sc around.

Rnd 11: *Sc2tog, sc in each of next 3 sc; repeat from * around – 24 sts.
Rnd 12: *Sc2tog, sc in each of next 2 sc; repeat from * around – 18 sts.
Rnd 13: *Sc2tog, sc in next sc; repeat from * around – 12 sts.
Stuff firmly.
Rnd 14: Sc2tog around – 6 sts.

Fasten off. Sew on beads or felt circles for eyes. With 2 strands of floss, embroider a straight stitch ‘Y’ at center of face
for nose.
BODY

Note: Body is worked beginning at lower edge. With A, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first chain. Mark first st for beg of rnd; move marker up every rnd.
Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around – 12 sc.
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * around – 18 sc.
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 2 sc; repeat from * around – 24 sc.

Rnd 5: *2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 3 sc; repeat from * around – 30 sc.
Rnds 6-8: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 9: *Sc2tog, sc in each of next 3 sc; repeat from * around – 24 sts.
Rnds 10 and 11: Sc in each sc around.
Begin stuffing firmly, add stuffing as work progresses.
Rnd 12: *Sc2tog, sc in each of next 2 sc; repeat from * around – 18 sts.
Rnds 13-15: Sc in each sc around.

Rnd 16: *Sc2tog, sc in next sc; repeat from * around – 12 sts .
Rnd 17: Sc in each sc around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to Head.
EARS (make 2)
With B, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 4 sc in first chain. Mark first st for beg of rnd; move marker up every rnd.
Rnds 2 and 3: Sc in each sc around.

Rnd 4: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc; repeat from * around – 6 sc.
Rnds 5 and 6: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 7: *2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 2 sc; repeat from * around – 8 sc.
Rnds 8 and 9: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 10: *2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 3 sc; repeat from * around – 10 sc.
Rnds 11-12: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 13: *2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 4 sc; repeat from * around – 12 sc.

Rnds 14 and 15: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 16: *2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 5 sc; repeat from * around – 14 sc.
Rnds 17-26: Sc in each sc around.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to Head.
LEGS (make 2) With B, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first chain. Mark first st for beg of rnd; move marker up each rnd.

Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around – 12 sc.
Rnd 3: Sc in each sc around. End off B.
Rnds 4 and 5: Join A. Sc in each sc around.
Stuff firmly.
Rnd 6: Sc2tog around – 6 sc.
Rnds 7 and 8: Sc in each sc around.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to Body.
ARMS (make 2)
With A, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first chain. Mark first st for beg of rnd; move marker up each rnd.
Rnds 2-6: Sc in each sc around.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to Body. Stuff firmly.
TAIL
With B, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first chain. Mark first st for beg of rnd; move marker up each rnd.
Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each sc around – 12 sc.
Rnds 3 and 4: Sc in each sc around.

Rnd 5: Sc2tog around – 6 sc.
Stuff very lightly. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing to Body.
FINISHING

Sew Head to Body. Sew Arms on either side of upper Body. Flatten Ears and sew to Head. Sew Feet on either side of lower Body. Sew Tail to lower back of Body.

how to sew a welt pocket

This instruction will show you a different way to sew a Tailor’s welt pocket. The welt pocket is a standard detail for blazers for both men and women.

First you will measure material for pocket is 8” down by 7-1/2”  across [plus allowance]

Then material for welt/flap 5-1/2” long by 3/4 width [plus allowance] sew and turn your flap use pelon inside if desired, press. then pin your welt/flap unto the pocket and sew as shown

cut along the marked line as shown, pay attention to the corner cutting instructions
turn pocket in and press in place, serge raw edge inside pocket.

Next step
pin pocket in place unto your pants or skirt as shown
stitch pocket unto your garment as shown making sure to get  the pocket level on all sides.

Note: its best to practice on scraps material before starting the actual pocket.

With a deeply colored stone as its centerpiece, this necklace suggests the riches of a mysterious woman.
A peyote-stitched bezel—worked with seed beads that decrease in size to hold the stone in place—is held
aloft with lacy layers of netting.

Design By: G l e n d a P a y s a n o

M a t e r i a l s
40mm round dolomite marble cabochon
Size 10° pale purple matte seed beads
Size 11° purple seed beads in 5 assorted finishes and shades
(dark silver-lined, dark transparent, medium frosted, pale
matte, and pale pearl finish)
Size 15° dark purple hex-cut seed beads
Size 15° pale purple seed beads
16 size 8° medium purple seed beads
8 lilac 4mm fire-polished rounds
4 dark purple 6mm fire-polished rounds
8 silver 5mm daisy spacers
2 crimp tubes
Clasp
Size D Nymo beading thread
20″ of .012 beading wire
To o l s
Size 12 beading needle
Scissors
Wire cutters
Crimping pliers
Figure 1 Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 4
Techniques

Tubular peyote stitch, brick-stitch netting, stringing, crimping Finished Size 16″

BEZEL
Step 1: Use 4′ of thread with a needle on each end to work tubular peyote stitch. Use one needle to work the front of the bezel and the other to work the back.
Rounds 1 and 2: String 1 size 10° (Round 1) and 1 size 11°
(Round 2) thirty-eight times, or use enough beads to reach around the circumference of the cabochon. Pass
through the first bead again to form a circle, leaving a 2′ tail.
Round 3, front: String 1 size 11° and pass through the next size 10°; repeat around. Step up by passing through the first bead of this round (Figure 1).
Rounds 2 and 3, back: Use the tail thread to repeat Round 3 on the other side of the size 10°s (Figure 2).
Rounds 4 and 5, front: Work 1 size 11° in each stitch; step up at the end of each round. Slip the cabochon inside the beadwork and check for fit. The rows for the back should come to the edge of the stone and the rows in the front should lie just above the curve of the stone (Figure 3).
Round 4, back: Work 1 size 11° in each stitch; step up at the end of each round.
Round 6, front: Work 1 size 15° hex in each stitch, pulling the thread tight to cinch the tube around the stone.
Rounds 5–9 back: Work 1 size 15° in each stitch, pulling tight to cinch the tube (Figure 4). Weave the tails through several beads to secure, then trim close to the work.
BASE STRIP
Step 2: Foundation row. Use 4′ of thread to begin a strip of 1- and 2-drop peyote stitch. The single beads along the top are a mix of size 11°s (A), and the 2-bead stacks along the bottom are dark purple size 11°s (B).
Start: String 1A and 4B. Pass back through the A, leaving a 10″ tail (Figure 5). Stitch 1: String 1A and pass down through the last 2-bead stack (Figure 6). Stitch 2: String 2B and pass up through the last A (Figure 7).
Repeat Stitches 1 and 2 for about 9″ (Figure 8).
Step 3: Picot. Flip the beadwork over to work a picot edge along the 2-bead edge of the foundation row from left to right. Start: String 1 dark purple (B), 1 light purple (C), 1 dark purple (B). Pass under the thread between the second and third 2-bead stack, then back through the last bead strung (Figure 9). Stitch: String 1C and 1B. Pass under the next thread, between the third and fourth stacks, then back through the last bead (Figure 10).
Continue adding 2 beads at a time and passing under the thread between the stacks and back through the last
bead (Figure 11). Leave the thread tail at the end.
NETTING
Step 4: Attach the cabochon bezel at the center of the foundation row (Figure 12). Do not worry about the exact placement—the bezel may be centered at each end by the tail threads in Step 10. Start: Using 4′ of thread, pass through a size 10° of the bezel leaving a 2′ tail. Working from left to right, *string 3B
and pass up through an edge bead of the foundation row, then down through the next bead. Pass back
through the last 3B and through the next size 10° of the bezel.
Stitch 2: Repeat once from *.
Stitches 3 and 4: String 2B and pass up through the last edge bead and down through the next bead; pass back through the last 2B and through the next size 10° of the bezel.
Stitches 5 and 6: Repeat Stitch 2, stringing 3B for each stitch. Pass each tail thread through 1 size 11° and 1 size 10° to begin netting.
Step 5: Netting Row 1. Use one of the tail threads from Step 4 to work the first row of brick-stitch netting along the foundation strip (Figure 13). Start: String 5C and 2B; pass under the fourth loop from
the last connecting stitch along the foundation row and back through the last 2B. Stitch 1: String 2B; pass under the next loop and back through the last 2B. Stitch 2: String 3C and 2B; pass under the next loop and
back through the last 2B. Stitch 3: String 2B; pass under the next loop and back through the last 2B. Stitch 4: String 7C and 2B; pass under the fourth loop and back through the last 2B. Repeat Stitches 1–4 four times, then repeat Stitches 1–3 at the end of the row. Repeat entire sequence using the thread on the other side of the cabochon.

Step 6: Netting Row 2. Secure a new thread at one end of the foundation strip, exiting the last 2B of the previous row.
Start: String 3B, 1 frosty purple (D), and 2B; pass through the first C of the previous row and back through the last 2B.
Stitch 1: String 3D and 2B; pass through the third C of the previous row and back through the last 2B.
Stitch 2: String 3B; pass under the loop between the next two stitches of the previous row and back through the last 3B.
Stitch 3: String 11D and 3B; pass under the loop between the next two stitches of the previous row and back
through the last 3B.
Stitch 4: String 2B; pass through the first C of the next stitch of the previous row and back through the last 2B. Repeat Stitches 1–4 four times, then repeat Stitches
1 and 2. String 7D and pass through the second and third size 10°s along the edge of the bezel.
Step 7: Netting Row 3. String 12 silver-lined dark purple (E); pass under the first loop of the previous row and back through the last 3E. Repeat as in Row 2, stringing 13E in place of the 11D.
Step 8: Netting Row 4: Repeat Row 2, using 16 matte opaque light purple in place of the 11D. String 11 beads to attach the last loop to the bezel at the end of the row.
Step 9: Netting Row 5. Repeat Row 3, stringing 18B to begin and 17B in place of the 11D.

Step 10: Adjust the foundation strip if necessary so that each end is the same length; the accent beads and clasp will add 31⁄2″ to each end of the strip. Finish the tail threads by passing through the foundation strip and tying knots between bead; trim close to the work.
Step 11: Stringing. Cut 10″ of wire and pass through the last two beads of the foundation strip. *String 5B on each end of the wire. Hold both ends evenly together to string 1 size 8°, one 4mm, 1 size 8°, 1 spacer, one 7mm, 1 spacer, 1 size 8°, one 4mm, and 1 size 8°. Repeat from * once. Use both ends to string 1 crimp tube, then pass each end in opposite directions through one half of the
clasp; pass back through the tube, snug the beads, and crimp. Repeat on the other end of the strip.

Glenda Paysano has been beading for seven years, mostly making jewelry to sell at a local farmer’s market every summer. She loves teaching off-loom beading techniques at her online bead club, Beadchat
(http://groups.yahoo.com/ group/Beadchat). Contact Glenda at glendanow2000@yahoo.com.